Maybe it's going to the spam folder?
Call them. You'll know the call goes to the right number.
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Time to switch to Dunlop Super Brights!!!
- Thread starter mmbongo
- Start date
Maybe it's going to the spam folder?
Call them. You'll know the call goes to the right number.
Your emails are not getting through. Dunlop, and Frank in particular, are stellar at customer service. I usually get a response within an hour directly from Frank. Pick up the phone and call, as for whatever reason your email is not working.
Like I stated before, I got an email back from a lady saying she would forward my email to Frank, then...more nothing. I'll call. What number do you guys call? Thanks!
I sold a spare set of super brights to one of my students. The E string was too long for his 34 scale bass so the thick part of the E string was on the tuning post causing the string to break at the wrapping point. Didnt have this problem with any of my own basses but i'll have to give him a spare D'Addario E string I have instead
I must admit that as much as I love these strings, I can't use them on my basses with Schaller and Sperzel tuners for this exact reason.
They work perfectly on my 34" scale basses...Lakland, Warwick, Roscoe, Carvin, and SX. It shouldn't really break unless it's tightened too far or had been removed or reinstalled a few times.
Plus Carvins ship with SuperBrights, and 90% of what they do is 34" with about 4 different headstock designs.
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I have had no installation problems on a few 34" basses, but none have the E or B tuner post right next to the nut.
It wasn't tightened too far or reinstalled.
They work perfectly on my own basses. It just didn't work on my students bass, either due to the headstock design or type of machine head.
I'm very maticulous when it comes to installing strings so it wasn't user error. Just incompatible with my students bass.
I love these strings but I'm just reporting an experience. I will continue to use them on my basses.
Just put on a set of stainless steel super brights last night and they sound and feel awesome (will write a comparison post vs nickels after a gig or two).
They work perfectly on my own basses. It just didn't work on my students bass, either due to the headstock design or type of machine head.
I'm very maticulous when it comes to installing strings so it wasn't user error. Just incompatible with my students bass.
I love these strings but I'm just reporting an experience. I will continue to use them on my basses.
Just put on a set of stainless steel super brights last night and they sound and feel awesome (will write a comparison post vs nickels after a gig or two).
I re-sent my original email to Dunlop CS again today and got a response back a couple hours later. Frank is going to be sending me a new set of Nickels to replace the defective pack.
And when I asked if I could try a pack of the SS ones instead, he offered to send me a pack of each!
All is right in the world again.
My Fender Precision Lyte Deluxe always sounded best with stainless steel strings. I've gutted it and replaced all the electronics since the last time I tried Rotos on that bass, but I'm excited to try the SS Super Brights now.
Replacement strings came in yesterday! In case anyone was keeping track, I got a hold of Frank on Monday, and received my peace offering on Wednesday. And that's cross-border shipping.
If anyone is having trouble getting a reply from CS, keep trying. Once I got through to Frank he was wonderful to deal with.
I'm on my seventh set of the nickels 40-100 and with every set in order to intonate the D string the saddle ends up being almost maxed out all the way forward. G string saddle sits a fair way behind it and the A and E further still. I've used nearly every brand of string under the sun and have never seen this before. It's not a problem other than the spring being fully uncompressed on the saddle. Just curious if anyone else is experiencing this? For reference, it's strung on a fender jazz, slight relief on the neck, action at around 2mm on the treble side and 3mm on the bass side.
I've seen others here with that problem, mainly with Fenders for whatever reason. My personal experience on my 6 basses is that I've never had to touch the intonation. But all of my basses except my Warwick and Lakland have Hipshot bridges.
Interesting. I'm a long time user of Rotosound Swing bass 66 SS 40-95 and didn't have to touch the intonation when I switched except for the drastic change on the D string. Anyway, it does intonate which is the main thing. I'm loving the Dunlops, they get very close to the rotosounds in terms of growl but with a tighter and thumpier bottom end with great fundamental that becomes more pronounced the more they age. And of course they feel sublime under the fingers.
just got my first set 45-125 nickels, and yup, had to max out the G-string intonation, screw fell off, probably should get a longer screw! Other strings were closer. 35" scale modulus Q5 coming from Dad EXL 45-130. These strings seem to be exactly what I'm looking for: slightly more open, slightly less thick bass, slightly less feel of tension than the EXL's but otherwise pretty similar (in a good way)
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They seem to be easy on the frets.
Both nickel and steel seem to have the same low tension feel and characteristics.
The steel has a bit more grip to it and sparkly highs.
The nickel feels silkier and more crunchier in the midrange.
Both are great but I would recommend nickel for all-around playing and steel if you like to slap.
They are to meNot quite like steels but more zingy than most nickels. That's half of what attracted me to them.
That was a big attraction for me as well - a bit more zing. SBN due just that for me.
I use 15s w/ the tweeter off.
Also the lower tension played a large factor for me.
