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Time to switch to Dunlop Super Brights!!!

To each his own tone is what I always say but I've been tellin TB bout these strings for the longest. I prefer the regular Super Bright SS Strings over the Nickel or Custom MM set.
 
I think you were one of the original folks that turned me on to SuperBrights, so I owe you one!
Bro it's talkbass ahahahah!!! I like to share my thoughts. Although purely subjective from a guy who grew up listening to Louis, Larry, Marcus and others these strings just do it for me. And I do prefer the regular over the MM. I like feedback from the strings and need to be able to maniputlate them. THe MM's are just to stiff for me or I'm too weak for them. Then too what is my opinion worth. You are talking to a guy who put Musicians Gear strings on his bass once and liked them too LOL!!! This was after I cleaned some grindy oily substance off of them.
 
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I went on a little string journey with my Sandberg recently. I've been using nickel SB's 45-130 for awhile now. Tried DR Pure Blues 45-130. They were ok but nothing special. Went to coated XL's...nothing special. Went to EB Cobalts45-130...D and G seemed very bright with bassy/muddy and B,E and A. Plus, they made my fingers smell funky...And so I'm back to nickle SB's and will be staying with them. For the money they just can't be beat in my opinion. Every note on every string has excellent definition.
 
Read through this thread, and dang it guys....you've convinced me to order a set of Dunlop Super Brights.

We'll see if Dunlop can steal me away from my MUCH beloved D.R. Sunbeams.....

I recently went back to Sunbeams after using SuperBrights for so long. The Sunbeams came right back off and on went a fresh set of SuperBrights. It was like a breath of fresh air :)
 
I tried a set of the Marcus millers and they were the worst strings I ever bought. They wouldn't grip onto the tuning pegs and were completely useless.
Once I had them all tuned up (while they were basically trembling, holding on for dear life on the tuning pegs), they were so fret buzzy/uneven that they would have required a whole new set up with a truss rod and bridge adjustment. No matter though, they became de tuned within a few minutes again on their own.

Did you contact Dunlop? I'm sure they would want to see a set of strings that just could not stay on the tuning posts.

About the MM strings I had an odd problem last week, I removed the strings in order to cleanup the bass and while stringing it back the E string just broke between the nut and the tuning pole, and the string wasn't at full tension or tuned yet. This was a couple weeks old set so I called Jim Dunlop and they are sending me a new set.
@ Alltomorrowsparties you should try talk to their CS.
 
I think I'm going to try switching my P bass over to flats for a little while, but I've got a bunch of unused sets of Super Brights laying around just in case / when I decide to go back to rounds. :)

I'm leaning towards trying a set of GHS Precision Flats to start, but I really don't know anything about flats. I've tried Chromes and Rotosounds in the past, but I've never really stuck with flatwounds for very long before switching back to rounds. Right now I'm chasing that Rolling Stones thump. I also saw Lee Fields & The Expressions this weekend, and the bass player's tone and playing were some of the best I've seen in that genre. :)
 
tell me if anyone else has a similar issue: I have noticed that I need to keep tuning my bass up every few days since putting these strings on. They go flat for some reason, whereas I hadnt tuned up my bass in probably the last few years.
 
I have a set of Marcus Miller Steel Super Brights on my Squier Affinity P that I use for rock/metal. They're actually very versatile strings. I could see myself having them on a main bass and being able to play just about everything with a turn of the tone knob. Also, I've had them on for a couple months (home practice, and a couple heavy band rehearsals) and they seem to age really well. The E string is the first to mellow out, but so far they're not "dead" at all. The E string still has that high end clack that makes them sound awesome!
 
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Hi All,
I just put a set of Steels on my Peavey Cirrus. They are certainly an improvement to the DR Neons ( really like DR's but not this type :|) I had on them but I don't know...I think I'm more of a fan of the Nickels? I can't describe it. I'm eventually going back to Rotosounds anyway. I can't believe how much I've spent on strings over the past few years, trying this set and trying that set I don; think I realized how much I enjoyed Rotos and how much they contributed to my sound. BSO will still get my cash but it will be only be for one brand of string.
Brent
 
I think I'm going to try switching my P bass over to flats for a little while, but I've got a bunch of unused sets of Super Brights laying around just in case / when I decide to go back to rounds. :)

I'm leaning towards trying a set of GHS Precision Flats to start, but I really don't know anything about flats. I've tried Chromes and Rotosounds in the past, but I've never really stuck with flatwounds for very long before switching back to rounds. Right now I'm chasing that Rolling Stones thump. I also saw Lee Fields & The Expressions this weekend, and the bass player's tone and playing were some of the best I've seen in that genre. :)

Well, I'm doing it. Just ordered a set of GHS Precision Flats for my P Bass.
I've got like a half dozen sets of Super Brights laying around, in case I decide to come back. :)

Still using the SB Stainless on my active P, and thinking I should have ordered a 5-string set for my BEAD Jazz, instead of going with D'Addarios...
 
I had been buying Carvin strings for years because they were made by LaBella for them - and they worked great. I recently wanted to get some more - come to find out "Kiesel" is now only selling Dunlop - OK, I'll bite. The first issue is a Kiesel issue - I ordered nickel and they sent steel, but I say screw it, I'll try them. After getting a 4 string set on the bass, I notice a few burs along the length of the G string - not sharp enough to cut, but annying and unacceptable. Kiesel rep is great and says keep those - we'll send out nickels - fine. Get the nickels - put a 5 string set on one of my 5s - while pulling up on the E string to stretch it out (I always do this to get a good wrap aroung the tuner and never had a problem - otherwise you can't get it to hold a tuning for long) - and the string breaks at the ball end. I've been playing since 1978, so 38 years and used all kinds of strings - and NEVER broke one! I've had some success with Kalium, so might get more of those - or LaBella, but they are a little more bread. So, I might be on another mission to find a new favorite.

Then again, I know - bad batch - stuff happens - QC misses things sometimes. I suppose I should contact Dunlop about the situation so they know about it, although I'm sure I'm not the only one that got a couple sets from a bad batch - and they may even offer up some free sets ;-)
 
I had been buying Carvin strings for years because they were made by LaBella for them - and they worked great. I recently wanted to get some more - come to find out "Kiesel" is now only selling Dunlop - OK, I'll bite. The first issue is a Kiesel issue - I ordered nickel and they sent steel, but I say screw it, I'll try them. After getting a 4 string set on the bass, I notice a few burs along the length of the G string - not sharp enough to cut, but annying and unacceptable. Kiesel rep is great and says keep those - we'll send out nickels - fine. Get the nickels - put a 5 string set on one of my 5s - while pulling up on the E string to stretch it out (I always do this to get a good wrap aroung the tuner and never had a problem - otherwise you can't get it to hold a tuning for long) - and the string breaks at the ball end. I've been playing since 1978, so 38 years and used all kinds of strings - and NEVER broke one! I've had some success with Kalium, so might get more of those - or LaBella, but they are a little more bread. So, I might be on another mission to find a new favorite.

Then again, I know - bad batch - stuff happens - QC misses things sometimes. I suppose I should contact Dunlop about the situation so they know about it, although I'm sure I'm not the only one that got a couple sets from a bad batch - and they may even offer up some free sets ;-)

It would be interesting to hear what dunlop says about tugging/stretching the strings by hand. A lot of people do that with their strings. I don't....but I wonder what they will say. They are round core, are probably a little weaker than a hex core. But seems like you had some bad luck.
 
I've had many bad sets of the nickels, always either the D or G strings in both gauges. I'm in Australia and there's not many suppliers to choose from. It's hit and miss here. I think we have a lot of the older flawed stock. I love these strings so much but hate the stress of stringing up a new set. Last set I received had a dodgy G string with a 1-2mm gap in the winding that caused it to buzz impossible to intonate. So I'm currently rocking 3 fresh dunlop super brights plus one old string. Standard procedure dealing with these strings. I'm only keeping this insanity up because they sound and feel so good.
 
It would be interesting to hear what dunlop says about tugging/stretching the strings by hand. A lot of people do that with their strings. I don't....but I wonder what they will say. They are round core, are probably a little weaker than a hex core. But seems like you had some bad luck.

SuperBrights are hex core, not round core.

Either way, I wouldn't manually pull them or stretch them or over tighten them or any strings in order to break them in.
 
SuperBrights are hex core, not round core.

Either way, I wouldn't manually pull them or stretch them or over tighten them or any strings in order to break them in.
oh yeah, I remember now. Well, they must be a lower mass core or something! To be so flexible.

I've experienced manufacturing issues, myself. Had 3 or so sets of nickels, with kinks in the G and/or D strings.
 
Either way, I wouldn't manually pull them or stretch them or over tighten them or any strings in order to break them in.

Yeah, stretching and yanking seems to be a no-no with some bass strings, so I just opt to never do it with any bass strings I install. It doesn't really seem necessary anyway. I just play as normal for a few minutes and re-tune as needed and the strings are good to go.
 
Yeah, stretching and yanking seems to be a no-no with some bass strings, so I just opt to never do it with any bass strings I install. It doesn't really seem necessary anyway. I just play as normal for a few minutes and re-tune as needed and the strings are good to go.

I've been doing this for 38 years and no breakage - ever. I can't imagine not stretching them because you need to pull the slack around the peg or they will not stay in tune very well - IMO of course. I'm not talking about an extreme amount either - i can't tell you an exact amount of pressure but enough to visually see the slack disappear around the peg. If done correctly, it will stay in tune quite well.