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Tolex cleanup

i use simple green to emulsify the dirt and scrub it with a nylon bristle brush. then blot it dry with with a terry towel. after that, i use vinylex to condition it and bring back it's original satin shine and wipe it off with a micro fiber cloth. ( IMO, armorall makes cabs look way too greasy), and shoe polish leaves a wax film on it.

cockpit cleaner also works well for cleaning, but i think vinylex is the best final treatment, and it smells like vinyl too.

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Amazon.com: Vinylex 1215 Protectant Spray 16.9 oz. (500mL): Automotive
 
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OK, how about removing oil based paint? I have a bit of sprayed "artwork" that needs to come off. How aggressive of a solvent can I use without melting or degrading the Tolex? I was thinking of starting out with a mild solvent like naptha then maybe upgrading to denatured alcohol and toluene.

Any thoughts/suggestions?

Sepp
 
OK, how about removing oil based paint? I have a bit of sprayed "artwork" that needs to come off. How aggressive of a solvent can I use without melting or degrading the Tolex? I was thinking of starting out with a mild solvent like naptha then maybe upgrading to denatured alcohol and toluene.

Any thoughts/suggestions?

Sepp

Naptha and elbow grease. Use a Magic Eraser.

I have used Naptha and a Magic Eraser to remove black shoe polish from a 50 year old Brown Deluxe with no negative effects.
 
Naptha (lighter fluid) or WD40 is good for removing goo from stickers.
I used to use Simple Green for all general cleaning until we found that it can sometimes stain aluminum (like on vintage motorcycle cases). Probably not a problem on steel amp corners but I switched to 409 for all my general cleaning needs.

Never heard of Vinylex but want to try as I have great results with Lexol products (like leather restorers or cleaners)
 
Armor All has some serious plasticizers in it that will over soften the finish. I use a different automotive interior protectant- Son Of A Gun - by STP - which is a lot better and won't make the Tolex soft and rip-able.

Any discolored spots respond well to black Kiwi shoe polish: the paste. Be cautious of the citrated cleaners (Simple Green, Basic H, etc.) as they are more aggressive than one might think and can discolor and remove a lot of the shine to the surface if not diluted enough.

One surprisingly good product is Bruce, a wood floor cleaner/protectorant. It doesn't shine things like a wax, but cleans and adds a protecting shield to the surface that isn't slippery (not safe on a floor - right?) and sheds dirt and water like a seal. I've started using it a lot now and have no problems with it in the past year or so.
 
i use easy off oven cleaner to remove spray paint. (wear gloves and do it outside since it contains lye).

then i clean it with simple green followed with vinylex.

Thanks John, that's good to know.

About 35 years ago, I recall seeing a V front Tweed Fender Super Amp painted black and wondered why someone would do that.

Since we're on the subject of cleaning...I recently bought a well used tweed Blues DeVille 4x10 that needs a serious cleaning. How would you clean nearly 20 years of grime out of tweed?
 
Thanks John, that's good to know.

About 35 years ago, I recall seeing a V front Tweed Fender Super Amp painted black and wondered why someone would do that.

Since we're on the subject of cleaning...I recently bought a well used tweed Blues DeVille 4x10 that needs a serious cleaning. How would you clean nearly 20 years of grime out of tweed?

you can clean tweed but you'll only have limited results. tweed is too porous to get everything out of it, and if you scrub it too much, it'll fray and become fuzzy (which IMO, is worse looking than dirt). if you want it to look new, it would have to be recovered.
 
you can clean tweed but you'll only have limited results. tweed is too porous to get everything out of it, and if you scrub it too much, it'll fray and become fuzzy (which IMO, is worse looking than dirt). if you want it to look new, it would have to be recovered.

Thanks! It doesn't have to look new, just a little more presentable and smell better! It's a bit musty smelling now.
 
Well, you didn't say you already tried soap and water or that it...how you say? "Sux?" I doubt a serious TB'er like KiethBMI was spamming you. Probably why you got a reply like this: vvvv

???????? I don't know keith, but a response that simply says "soap" with no type specified AND a question mark at the end really doesn't sound like someone seriously trying to help. Sounds more like a smart alec to me!
 
dabbler said:
???????? I don't know keith, but a response that simply says "soap" with no type specified AND a question mark at the end really doesn't sound like someone seriously trying to help. Sounds more like a smart alec to me!

Aw c'mon. We all know soap means a mild detergent. And besides, the op seemed to know what soap meant seeing as he fessed up to using an unspecified type of soap and then claiming it "sux."

What soap does not mean:
Bleach
Citrus degreaser
Solvent, naphtha, goo gone
Harsh detergents
Armorall or similar derivatives
Shoe polish
Windex
Wood soap
Furniture polishes

The point is that the op didn't search nor provide any failed attempt details. And kiethbmi...had anyone bothered to look at his profile would see that he has been around long enough to have seen the same question asked multiple times...was not being a DBag but merely asking if the op had given soap and water a try. Seeing as the answer given was the most common successful tip for this type of job.
 
"Methanolic potassium hydroxide, chromic acid, and aqua regia, are other examples of cleaning agents that don't qualify as 'mild detergents.' An overnight soak in a mixture of ammonia and sodium carbonate is probably out as well."

Squink - Straight Dope