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Tonewoods

I realize that Gard might have potential special interests financially in wood selection, but a lot of the wood options aren't necessarily upcharges. If a builder only suggests woods that are major upgrades, then there may be financially biased opinion.
That's too simple, they make money based on their perception of expertise and they are salesmen. They will lose sales if people don't have this perception. So it doesn't have to be so directly connected to up-charges it can be subtle and more complex.

This is similar to people who will say they aren't effected by advertising, they will claim since they didn't go out to buy a product right after seeing a commercial it didn't work on them not knowing it's more complicated than they can see. Accepting that we are fallible is seen as some kind of defeat to many, this is exploited greatly by those in advertising. I would suggest that anyone who gets angry over someone else not sharing their faith in a particular advertiser is not in control of their opinions anymore and might benefit from looking into why someone on the internet can trigger such an emotional response. I can assure you that the Madison Avenue folks have studied this intensely. Brand loyalty is gold.
 
I also don't agree that you have demonstrated anything, you have dismissed the difference between soft and hard maple, others say soft maple sounds like alder. No one is willing to show they can tell the difference without knowing which is which first. If I excepted that as proof I'd have to believe every psychic and palm reader and all the others who can't offer a simple demonstration and definition.

I did nothing of the sort. Western soft maple and rock maple are different beasts all together. They have different tonal and physical properties. Most of what I have seen leads me to believe that the western soft maple has different tonal properties because it's much less dense.


Although, I recently picked up a 2nd Fender Urge bass. I suspect it will sound much like my first Urge when the strings are broken in. Right now the new strings make it sound a lot more metallic, which should fade.
 
My only A/B experience is with two Peavey Cirrus. One was bubinga top / walnut body and neck. The other a Redwood top / alder body and maple neck. They both had the same electronics, pickups and strings and fretboards. They were, to my surprise, quite different sounding. The redwood/alder/maple combination is a much brighter sounding guitar. The bubinga/walnut richer and deeper. Both are great sounding but the differences were much more than I ever thought they would be. With all else being equal, I am now convinced that the woods can make a big difference.
 
I'm coming way late to the party, but I have some info to impart. Rickenbacker(pronounced back), made a 4004ci that is all maple with a maple fetboard. This bass has humbuckers. It is fairly bright sounding. They then put a bubinga fretboard and it darkened the sound a tad. I have a 4004cii that has a maple walnut maple sandwich for a body and it is darker sounding, like a P on steroids. RIC moved the neck pup away from the neck also, but that had a minimal effect on the tone, the big reason was for easier access to the truss rod adjustment at the body end. So yes wood affects tone, they added walnut in the middle to darken the tone.
 
I'm not taking sides, because I'm not really interested, my ears haven't developed enough to make plausible decisions, and the debate is a distraction for me when buying or trying basses. I do have a few opinions, or generalizations that might or might not be expectation based, but I'm not interested enough to look at things in a scientific manner.

My experiences with blind and double blind tastings of wine and spirits taught me a lot- I've been working in, and then managing bars and restaurants for over twenty years, and used to be a big drinker. I'm a trained chef with about 12 years experience cooking in restaurants for about 8 months of each of those, and I'm what is known as a supertaster, having more taste buds per square centimeter on my tongue than the majority of people.

I can differentiate many vodka brands in a double blind test, and if I'm given the brands to allocate, can usually get most or all of them right. This is due to my experience over the years, and the attention I've spent on educating my palate. I consistently do better on these tests than my customers and employees, although often people recognize the brand they usually drink.

In a blind and blindfolded single grape varietal wine tasting I can often mistake a red for a white wine, although if I can see the wine I can often identify the grape variety and sometimes country of origin, and if it's a style I'm familiar with I can sometimes name a vintage or a producer.

These experiences have taught me to trust experience, but not all that much, and not to generalize these experiences.

So, although I believe a mahogany body lends a certain tonal character to a bass compared an alder one, I recognize that I might be persuaded by expectation to hear a difference. If an experienced luthier believes the same thing, I tend to believe it on principle, as he probably hears nuances I don't yet and probably never will hear.

In the end, if I can hear the difference, even if I am only imagining it, it might be enough for it to affect my decision, as in the end it's me who plays the thing. In truth, though, I just look at, listen to, and play basses until I find one I like and that fits my needs, the rest is a distraction for a non bass-building player, IMO.

One more thing, slightly OT: basses inexplicably sound so much better to me when I hear them played back to me on a recording, or even when a cack-handed beginner picks up one of my basses and plinks a few notes, a phenomenon I can't explain. Something about holding a bass and playing it has a profound adverse effect on the way it sounds to me in real time.
 
My only A/B experience is with two Peavey Cirrus. One was bubinga top / walnut body and neck. The other a Redwood top / alder body and maple neck. They both had the same electronics, pickups and strings and fretboards. They were, to my surprise, quite different sounding. The redwood/alder/maple combination is a much brighter sounding guitar. The bubinga/walnut richer and deeper. Both are great sounding but the differences were much more than I ever thought they would be. With all else being equal, I am now convinced that the woods can make a big difference.

Ya see, the concept of tonewoods make sense to Cirrus users. Perhaps more people just need to play them.