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Top-loading your strings vs. Thru-body

The problem with that test is that if the string-thru A is doing its purpose and clamping the bridge down, the top-loaded one will benefit from that too.

If what you say were true there would be a difference in the other two top loaded strings compared to the standard tuning (with an E string and all toploaded) as well. There wasn't.

There wasn't even a difference when only one A string (either top load or string through) was mounted on the bass. At that point it was a 3 stringer...and the empty ferrule fell out.
 
My tech keeps reminding me to press firmly down on each string right at the bridge PU side to get a good witness point on a P-Bass when stringing. I did this after the strings had been on for months and it sounded like new strings. Before it was good after it was great.
About the resonance I could hear more on my '70'sTele Bass through strung but the strings sounded airer and rang more through the bridge.
 
The A/B test of two different basses isn't a good test because the difference (if any) is so small that it could be due to other variances. But, doing the same test on a few different basses where the bridges allow either choice would give some valid information. Based on two Lakland US 494s (a Deluxe with maple board and a Classic with rosewood board), a Lakland Skylne 55-01, and a Hammer Cruise bass with the Gotoh bridge where I've strung them all up different ways, I can say that there's no noticalbe difference in sound. There's a possibility that there's a very slight difference in the way the string feel under my right (plucking) hand, but it's so subtle that it could be prejudice on my part.

Pretty much to me it's vodoo. I like the way the Laklands sound and feel and I'd like them whether they had STB or were top-load only.

jte
 
Why would a break angle cause strings to die quickly? What about sweat, dirt, acidity, etc?
AHA! Great question!

First, my experience is related to a lot of basses over the years, but two in particular really brought this out. Both are Alembic Series I's; one the long scale, the other the short scale. Just due to the body configuration, Alembic had placed the tailpiece on the long scale about a mile back from the bridge. The strings had almost no break angle at all over the saddles and lasted darn near forever. The short scale had the tailpiece parked right at the bridge, which caused a huge break angle at the saddles. I used the same gauge strings on both instruments; and, in fact, the tension on the short scale was even lower by a bit. Nevertheless, the short scale eats strings for three squares a day. Kills them dead.

So, back to the original question, which I have also wondered about.

Indeed, scum buildup in the windings can probably damp the string harmonics a bit; but, I don't believe that is the primary effect. Its kind of like worrying about the mass of fleas on a dog.

The core of the strings is made of hardened steel. The likelihood is that damping primarily occurs at the witness point - the saddle. And, that is where the hardened core is bent at an angle, with greater bending for a higher break angle.

Well, my hypothesis has to do with what happens to the microstructure of the steel when it is bent. Steel is crystalline. It bends due to the motion of defects called dislocations in the crystals. The hardening process pins the dislocations in the crystals, which makes the material less lossy at the atomic scale. But, when you bend it, the dislocations become unpinned. The more bending, the more dislocations become mobile, the more lossy the steel becomes. It is a little similar to what happens when you bend a paper clip - gets easier and then finally breaks.

A similar example is that bells are carefully heat treated to tie up the dislocations - it makes them ring!

Anyhow, to prove this idea, you would have to get sections of the bent string core into a transmission electron microscope; a project I've often thought would be interesting, but which no one cares about enough to pay for. Such is our ROI oriented society!

Another thing - the boiling treatment: that's fine for removing the gunk in the windings, but if you wanted to re-pin the dislocations, you would have to heat the string to about 600C to 700C. That is what is required to get the atoms to move around. So, needless to say the 100C boiling treatment doesn't get close.

OK, that my Bill Nye explanation. For what it is worth.

The strings still go dead after a while.

Of course, there are other ways to design the bridge, but that is a whole different discussion.
 

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