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Dunno how I’ve missed this thread, just about all I play is tricked out Squiers! I’ll just share my main 2, as they’re the two I can never get rid off.
1) 2010 VM Precision Bass TB. Mods: Defretted, lines filled; Bone nut; Pickup rewound by Sentell Pickups; thumb rest added; knobs changed to 72 tele deluxe.
2) 2008 Classic Vibe Duo-Sonic. Mod; GFS lil Killer bridge humbucker; gold strap buttons.
1) 2010 VM Precision Bass TB. Mods: Defretted, lines filled; Bone nut; Pickup rewound by Sentell Pickups; thumb rest added; knobs changed to 72 tele deluxe.
2) 2008 Classic Vibe Duo-Sonic. Mod; GFS lil Killer bridge humbucker; gold strap buttons.
I had a Squier Jazz bass that is now completely modded. I started out with just changing out the pickups, but it escalated from there. It’s on its third set of pickups now.
· the neck was replaced with a USAGC neck I had from another project
· finished the back of the neck with Tru Oil
· routed out the body for a precision pickup and a battery box
· painted the body and headstock (1963 GM sea foam green)
· made custom “Impala” decal for headstock
· installed a precision pickup
· made a custom wound bridge pickup. Split coil with each bobbin 9500 turns of 42 gauge enamel wire
· made a pickguard in order to accommodate the precision pickup
· installed an Audere Pro Z preamp
I had the paint mixed at an auto body shop that can fill and pressurize a rattle can. Unfortunately, they mixed the two part paint (separate colour and separate clear coat), so the paint wasn’t as hard as regular acrylic enamel, and I didn’t put a clear coat on. I didn’t really notice until much later. So the finish has worn prematurely, which isn’t really a bad thing.
I made up a pickguard because the precision pickup would go outside of the regular jazz pickguard.
I probably use this bass the majority of the time because it plays and sounds incredible. I called it an Impala because it’s not really a Squier nor a Fender bass. Since the colour I used is from a 1963 Chev Impala, I figured that’d be a good name for the bass. I’ll never get what I have into this bass, but that wasn’t the purpose of modifying this one.
· the neck was replaced with a USAGC neck I had from another project
· finished the back of the neck with Tru Oil
· routed out the body for a precision pickup and a battery box
· painted the body and headstock (1963 GM sea foam green)
· made custom “Impala” decal for headstock
· installed a precision pickup
· made a custom wound bridge pickup. Split coil with each bobbin 9500 turns of 42 gauge enamel wire
· made a pickguard in order to accommodate the precision pickup
· installed an Audere Pro Z preamp
I had the paint mixed at an auto body shop that can fill and pressurize a rattle can. Unfortunately, they mixed the two part paint (separate colour and separate clear coat), so the paint wasn’t as hard as regular acrylic enamel, and I didn’t put a clear coat on. I didn’t really notice until much later. So the finish has worn prematurely, which isn’t really a bad thing.
I made up a pickguard because the precision pickup would go outside of the regular jazz pickguard.
I probably use this bass the majority of the time because it plays and sounds incredible. I called it an Impala because it’s not really a Squier nor a Fender bass. Since the colour I used is from a 1963 Chev Impala, I figured that’d be a good name for the bass. I’ll never get what I have into this bass, but that wasn’t the purpose of modifying this one.
A Bronco with a high mass bridge, rail pickup, tape wound flats, and painted guard.
A hardtail Bullet Special I did with a WWII jeep theme.
And a squire Tele with strat neck, black satin paint, and new electronics.
and finally not so much tricked out, but a save from bubba the guitar tech. Got this Tele bass cheap cuz bubba screwed up the bridge, and I fixed it as best I could with a large high mass bridge to cover the extra holes and chip outs, and then a cover.
A hardtail Bullet Special I did with a WWII jeep theme.
And a squire Tele with strat neck, black satin paint, and new electronics.
and finally not so much tricked out, but a save from bubba the guitar tech. Got this Tele bass cheap cuz bubba screwed up the bridge, and I fixed it as best I could with a large high mass bridge to cover the extra holes and chip outs, and then a cover.
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D
Has anybody changed the maple neck of a natural vm jazz with a maple/rosewood one?
Any audible differences? Looking to do it to this nice little fella:
- extremely lightweight
- sound is lacking a bit in the lower end of the soundspectrum, but has a really nice mid to high-mid grond to it
- changed the pickup covers to closed ones
- will install a 3band Noll pre amp in it
- blacked out hardware
- changed the bridge to a more comfortable 17mm string spacing
- at this point, some old Ibanez-like tuners are installed, but they will be changed to black elephant ears
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Can I sign up for a number as well
Any audible differences? Looking to do it to this nice little fella:
- extremely lightweight
- sound is lacking a bit in the lower end of the soundspectrum, but has a really nice mid to high-mid grond to it
- changed the pickup covers to closed ones
- will install a 3band Noll pre amp in it
- blacked out hardware
- changed the bridge to a more comfortable 17mm string spacing
- at this point, some old Ibanez-like tuners are installed, but they will be changed to black elephant ears
Invalid Link Removed
Can I sign up for a number as well
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New addition
Squier VM fretless Jazz
mods:
Squier VM fretless Jazz
mods:
- Bartolini hum cancelling pickups
- wire harness upgrade(V,B,T)
- Fender plate & barrel knobs
- Fender threaded bridge
- Squier Classic Vibe 50 P tuners(jazz came with broken G tuner had these from a previous upgrade)
- LaBella Low Tension Flats
So here's what I did...
I went to my favorite shop (BCR Music & Sound in Lemoyne, PA) and had them take a look.
1) The valuation on my J bass was very nice - it seems that I have a very good year for my MiM Squier J
2) $120 for fretwork and a setup got it really nice - I can dig in, get great dynamics, and no buzz or dead frets. The entire fretboard needed leveled, in addition to some minor tweaks. Overall, I made the same changes they would recommend for ANY J-Bass of this make and era.
Plugged in - it's really nice. Once I got my head around the electronics and wired them correctly, that serial switch really does enhance the punch and the whole thing turns into a very P-bass sounding instrument.
Only thing I need to rethink: I'm going to have to give a serious mind to is a bit more meaty a strap. This bass is a heavy one - moreso than my mahogany thunderbird - only better balanced.
Tonally I can pull off some really good stuff - I'm a bit of a stickler on tone and song. It's a J-bass and it works superbly for a good amount of my music. Each bass has a different vibe, and I'm loving that I can now add this one to my arsenal.
I picked up a black Affinity P that was priced right and
played well, but the sound was soft and the weight made it feel like a toy. I tried incorporating what I like about a lot of different basses like the Mustang, Peavey T-40, Iby Mikro and such. I was shooting for a Mustang body, but it didn't end up as close as I'd hoped. The paint turning out like it did sure made up for it though and I'm not going to brag, but I did get the enamel right on like the 5th or 6th try. I'm not crazy about the white pickguard but it reminds me of a Shelby Cobra. I still have to clear, buff and polish the headstock and throw on some GHS Super Steels. I think the ash and super steels will make this a very clear playing P.
played well, but the sound was soft and the weight made it feel like a toy. I tried incorporating what I like about a lot of different basses like the Mustang, Peavey T-40, Iby Mikro and such. I was shooting for a Mustang body, but it didn't end up as close as I'd hoped. The paint turning out like it did sure made up for it though and I'm not going to brag, but I did get the enamel right on like the 5th or 6th try. I'm not crazy about the white pickguard but it reminds me of a Shelby Cobra. I still have to clear, buff and polish the headstock and throw on some GHS Super Steels. I think the ash and super steels will make this a very clear playing P.
Now that I think of it, I should have just bought a Bullet bass and saved a bunch of time.........lol
Here she is all done. The only issue that I had was when I went to play it, it didn't work. The switchcraft jack I installed was of a larger diameter than the original and grounded out inside the cavity. Nothing a drill and sanding drum couldn't fix in 5 minutes. It sounds good and plays well. She's a keeper. Not sure if I want to make a PG to match the fingerboard and HS or make a HS piece to match the PG.
Here's "my" newest bass. I put "my" in quotations because it's built for two purposes--one is to appease my need for a project, the other is to provide a bass I can teach my girlfriend to play.
Started as a bog-standard black Squier Affinity I found on the local FB Marketplace. One tuning gear paddle was busted clean off, another was hanging off, and the other two just... sucked. Bought a set of tuners and bushings on eBay, OEM from a Squier Jag. Decent quality, dirt cheap, and even had all the screws.
I got a couple of Scotch Brite sanding pads as well as some sanding sponges and scoured the finish. I used Rustoleum 2x Painter's Touch in Candy Pink with Rustoleum Matte Clear. There's a lot of ugly little spots that my choice of camera angle and topcoat make hard to find unless you're up close with the bass. I might touch them up in the future.
The pickguard came from a CIJ Fender P and is a nice aged white. The real treat here is the pickup, a Nordstrand Power Blade. It's f*****g huge sounding, reminds me of a MusicMan but fatter. Super aggressive, very loud. Paired with a CTS 500k volume with treble bleed circuit and a CTS 500k No Load tone pot.
Started as a bog-standard black Squier Affinity I found on the local FB Marketplace. One tuning gear paddle was busted clean off, another was hanging off, and the other two just... sucked. Bought a set of tuners and bushings on eBay, OEM from a Squier Jag. Decent quality, dirt cheap, and even had all the screws.
I got a couple of Scotch Brite sanding pads as well as some sanding sponges and scoured the finish. I used Rustoleum 2x Painter's Touch in Candy Pink with Rustoleum Matte Clear. There's a lot of ugly little spots that my choice of camera angle and topcoat make hard to find unless you're up close with the bass. I might touch them up in the future.
The pickguard came from a CIJ Fender P and is a nice aged white. The real treat here is the pickup, a Nordstrand Power Blade. It's f*****g huge sounding, reminds me of a MusicMan but fatter. Super aggressive, very loud. Paired with a CTS 500k volume with treble bleed circuit and a CTS 500k No Load tone pot.
Just did some more mods to my Affinity P bass! I posted last winter when I put on a pickguard, bridge, pots, cap, Jack, knobs, shielding and a peavey neck.
This week I put on a Fender Jazz bass neck and new “F” Neck plate (cause, vanity.) I also got a bridge cover, scuffed it up with some 400 grit to give it a matte/worn look. Just a touch of vintage flair.
This thing is even better than ever! The neck is smooth and fast, excellent workmanship. Might be placebo, but I think it even sounds better too!
Funny thing is, the stock affinity pickup is still in it. I even bought a tonerider TRP1, but it sounds great as-is, I don’t wanna mess with it.
I love my tricked out Squier!
This week I put on a Fender Jazz bass neck and new “F” Neck plate (cause, vanity.) I also got a bridge cover, scuffed it up with some 400 grit to give it a matte/worn look. Just a touch of vintage flair.
This thing is even better than ever! The neck is smooth and fast, excellent workmanship. Might be placebo, but I think it even sounds better too!
Funny thing is, the stock affinity pickup is still in it. I even bought a tonerider TRP1, but it sounds great as-is, I don’t wanna mess with it.
I love my tricked out Squier!
This seems like the most appropriate thread for this question— does anyone happen to know which style of Hipshot tuners are drop-in compatible with the more recent Classic Vibe basses?
Planning on ordering a set for mine tomorrow and can’t tell if I should go with the HB1 or HB5.
Any and all help will be greatly appreciated!
Planning on ordering a set for mine tomorrow and can’t tell if I should go with the HB1 or HB5.
Any and all help will be greatly appreciated!
It won't help you decide by tomorrow, but please hear me out.
If it were my money on the line, I would contact the company directly. Specifically, I would ask them if a tracing laid down onto some graph paper…charting out the outline and screw-holes…could be sent their way to figure out if any of their products is a direct, drop-in match.
It may sound like a lot of work, but given how much a set of Hipshot tuners cost, I think fifteen to twenty minutes of work and a stamped envelope would be worth the expense.
Thanks for the advice- I did some digging in the forums and found out that the HB1’s are perfect drop-in replacements.It won't help you decide by tomorrow, but please hear me out.
If it were my money on the line, I would contact the company directly. Specifically, I would ask them if a tracing laid down onto some graph paper…charting out the outline and screw-holes…could be sent their way to figure out if any of their products is a direct, drop-in match.
It may sound like a lot of work, but given how much a set of Hipshot tuners cost, I think fifteen to twenty minutes of work and a stamped envelope would be worth the expense.
Kinda bummed that they don’t make them with the lollipop keys as an option but oh well.
Will definitely post some pics of my bass here once it’s revamped— still need to decide which of my two CV Jazzes will get the Dimarzio Model J pickups I ordered last month & whether or not to swap the tort guard on my Olympic White 60s Jazz to black.
You could always go with a set of Ultralites, yes? They can be gotten with lollypop keys. As for installing them, just measure the distance between the screw holes to the right of the peg-post and find the center-most spot.
As for your two CV-J's, which generation are they? If you no longer need the original pickups, there's a chance I might want to take them off your hands…assuming you'd even want to let them go.
I did this with an Allparts pickguard. I call it a "95% perfect fit" because one of the screw holes was slightly off. However, I was still able to install the screw, it was just slightly tilted and barely noticeable.
I have a 2012 Olympic White 60’s Made in China & a 2019 Made in Indonesia 70’s in lovely natural finish.As for your two CV-J's, which generation are they? If you no longer need the original pickups, there's a chance I might want to take them off your hands…assuming you'd even want to let them go.
They’re both terrific but I’ve been favoring the pickups in the 60’s as of late. Part of me wants to put them into my 70’s & install the Model J’s in my 60’s, but again, I’ve been extremely indecisive
I’ll definitely keep you posted when my mind is made up!
I understand. The first-gen CV-J pickups were outstanding, punching way above their weight.I have a 2012 Olympic White 60’s Made in China & a 2019 Made in Indonesia 70’s in lovely natural finish.
They’re both terrific but I’ve been favoring the pickups in the 60’s as of late. Part of me wants to put them into my 70’s & install the Model J’s in my 60’s, but again, I’ve been extremely indecisive
I’ll definitely keep you posted when my mind is made up!
These are the layouts of both models (You can download them from the Hipshot website). There's no difference in the distance between the screws that go into the headstock. The difference is in the post length and bushing size. Nevertheless, the HB1 seems more suitable for a Squier.
Has anyone here added a third pickup closer to the neck on their squier jazz or PJ? I'm considering adding a DiMarzio DP145 (humbucker) in/around the 24th fret position on an Affinity PJ, and would love to hear of anyone that has done something similar, especially how they formatted the electronics.
