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Trucks...

#141
James Hart said:
yeah, I found a cheap 2" body lift kit with gap filler... from what I've read, the bumpers can be repositioned without much fuss with it.
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The body lift kit should at least come with the brackets for the front bumper, the rear brackets you can either fab yourself or buy additionally (with all the hardware) for an extra $50 or so.

I did a 3" body lift on my Wife's truck, total cost was less than $300.
 
#144
Here is my new truck, just picked up this bad boy Wednesday. I am usually a Ford kind of guy, but my Ranger has given me alot of problems, and of all the new trucks out there, Dodge are the only ones I think look good.

That 5.7 hemi has got a big hairy set on it.

20121121_152927.jpg
 
#150
pocketgroove said:
Thanks! That's definitely the next thing I'm going to try. This truck's been nothing but trouble.
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They're cheap and reasonably easy to change. If you have a 3.9, 5.2 or 5.9 it's on the back of the block on the passenger side, and if you have the 4.7 it's on the side of the block, also on the passenger side.

Fuel pump failures are fairly common on those, too. Usually when a fuel pump takes a crap you'll gradually lose power, just like running out of gas. Sometimes you can have someone smack the tank with a hammer while you crank it over and get it running again. When a crank sensor gives up it's just like someone clicked off the key, the truck will stall all at once instead of a gradual power loss.

If you have access to a scanner or code reader with data capability, hook it up and look for an rpm signal while you're cranking it over. No signal, likely a dead crank sensor. If you don't have a scanner, even a basic check for spark can help you diagnose it. If you have spark, the crank sensor is good. If you find you have spark see if it will run off carb cleaner or something similar.
 
#151
Mike N said:
They're cheap and reasonably easy to change. If you have a 3.9, 5.2 or 5.9 it's on the back of the block on the passenger side, and if you have the 4.7 it's on the side of the block, also on the passenger side.

Fuel pump failures are fairly common on those, too. Usually when a fuel pump takes a crap you'll gradually lose power, just like running out of gas. Sometimes you can have someone smack the tank with a hammer while you crank it over and get it running again. When a crank sensor gives up it's just like someone clicked off the key, the truck will stall all at once instead of a gradual power loss.

If you have access to a scanner or code reader with data capability, hook it up and look for an rpm signal while you're cranking it over. No signal, likely a dead crank sensor. If you don't have a scanner, even a basic check for spark can help you diagnose it. If you have spark, the crank sensor is good. If you find you have spark see if it will run off carb cleaner or something similar.
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Hey, thanks a lot! It died exactly as you described...it was immediate. I'm going to do the sensor tomorrow, and hopefully it works!
 
#152
pocketgroove said:
Hey, thanks a lot! It died exactly as you described...it was immediate. I'm going to do the sensor tomorrow, and hopefully it works!
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One word of warning if you have the 4.7 and you've seen road salt with that truck, the sensor may be slightly difficult to remove. They're o-ringed into the block and corrosion can form between the sensor and the block, making it harder to get the o-ringed portion past the rusted part. Sometimes a small pick can help to pick the crud away before you try to pull it put. Spray some penetrating oil in there and carefully work the sensor back and forth and eventually it comes out. Patience will pay off here.
 
#153
Mike N said:
One word of warning if you have the 4.7 and you've seen road salt with that truck, the sensor may be slightly difficult to remove. They're o-ringed into the block and corrosion can form between the sensor and the block, making it harder to get the o-ringed portion past the rusted part. Sometimes a small pick can help to pick the crud away before you try to pull it put. Spray some penetrating oil in there and carefully work the sensor back and forth and eventually it comes out. Patience will pay off here.
Click to expand...

Thanks for the warning. It's the 3.9 and it's not too rusty, though it certainly has seen some Michigan winters.
 
#156
Okay, getting closer now. I've been waiting for the Blazer to pass inspection before finishing the deal (as well as getting funds together on my end). He finally ran it through but it failed. HC ppm limit is 220... @ idle it was 260 and @ 2500rpm it was like 50. A little research makes me hopeful it's a cheap repair considering the documented work already done. I've lowered my offer by $200 to take it as is.
 
#157
Okay, you tree huggers are going to wrinkle your noses at this! This was my '98 twin turbo Cummins I just sold a few weeks ago, and was my daily driver for almost 10 years.


I still have another one, a '95 Cummins but it's regular cab and a 2wd. I'll have to find my pics of it.
 
#158
Caca de Kick said:
Okay, you tree huggers are going to wrinkle your noses at this! This was my '98 twin turbo Cummins I just sold a few weeks ago, and was my daily driver for almost 10 years.


I still have another one, a '95 Cummins but it's regular cab and a 2wd. I'll have to find my pics of it.
Click to expand...


Meh. This 7.3 beast makes that thing cry. And it is proven to do the same to every tree hugger in a 10 mile radius...

50F03AB4-9BB8-458E-97D7-95957A8F0F8C-291-000000267D45D1DC.jpg
 

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