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truss rod adjustment mandatory when switching strings ?
- Thread starter deeruss
- Start date
I have never had to tweak a truss rod when changing strings.
I went from DR Lo-Rider's to Lakland/GHS flats on my Lull and didn't have to change anything.
I always use heavy gauge strings so I assume the load will be similar.
I went from DR Lo-Rider's to Lakland/GHS flats on my Lull and didn't have to change anything.
I always use heavy gauge strings so I assume the load will be similar.
Its not mandatory, change the strings and check the relief.
Few days ago I change strings in my classic P, from Fender rounds to TI flats, I did not need to adjust the truss rod.
Few days ago I change strings in my classic P, from Fender rounds to TI flats, I did not need to adjust the truss rod.
BassHappy
Supporting Member
Hey Deeruss
I wouldn't say mandatory at all - but just remember it's never about gauges it's more about core size and tension. Don't be fooled - you may go lighter in gauge but if they pull more tension - you may need some neck relief. Good luck with it!
You should only need to adjust the truss rod if the total string tension across all the strings changes. Similar gauges should provide similar tensions. Nothing will be damaged if the truss rod is set incorrectly. What will happen is the neck will curve slightly either toward or away from the bridge. This will create uneven spots along the fingerboard where you will get more or less string buzz as the action will be completely uneven. If that happens, you can swap back to the original set until you have a way to adjust the truss rod and do a setup.
BassHappy
Supporting Member
In my experience, I don't find this to be true at all, especially if you are moving from one type to another with different cores and different brands - in other words - from flats to rounds or rounds to tapes or flats to bronzers - you get the idea.
Sure if you are apples to apples with rounds to rounds with the same manufacturer, tension might be close to similar, if they have similar cores: hex to hex or round to round - but otherwise almost never the same tension with respect to gauges. Especially true if you are mixing brands. GHS pull WAY more tension in the same gauges that D'Addario pull for example - it's a generalization for sure, but true for the most part.
Waiting for the mods to move this to the STRING forum where it belongs...
I say, if you are particular at all, be prepared to make adjustments - but it's always a pleasant surprise if you don't have to.
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I never have had to do any adjustments when changing from factory strings, to my Nylons. That's for any bass, also.
It depends on the strings and how you like your action. Some people are fussier than others even with the smallest of changes, others don't worry about it. As long as it plays alright and your comfortable with how it plays or sounds then your good to go. You may want to acquire the tools to set up your instrument at some point. It may be just a couple allen wrenches that are relatively inexpensive.
okcrum
in your chest
The tools to do an adjustment will cost you less than a set of strings. You should check the relief whenever changing string types or brands and adjust if needed. Unless you have a very good neck, you'll need to do small adjustments seasonally anyway if you want the playing action to remain consistent. You'll also usually need to adjust relief a bit if going between standard and various down tunings. There are complete setup guides with templates and pictures here.
EDIT: I just checked and adjusted the relief on my MIJ Jag in less time than it took to type this post.
EDIT: I just checked and adjusted the relief on my MIJ Jag in less time than it took to type this post.
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I hit this situation a week or so ago. I had a set of Roto 66's on a Jazz bass, but due to a twist of bio-chemistry, they start turning my fingertips black-ish. (Go fig!) Since I wanted to bring out the inherent Jazz "growl", I put a used set of D'Addario FlexSteels on, tuned it up, fiddled around for a little while and put it away.
I came back to it two or three days later and the A-string started buzzing in ways it had never done before. After some head-scratching, I remembered the significantly lower tension FlexSteels. (e.g.: Chromes=199lbs, FlexSteels=150 or less) I thought about adjusting the truss rod, but it's one of those heel-adjust-types. So, in an inspired bout of "ingenuity through laziness", I switched to a set of equally-growly Ernie Ball Cobalts. After settling in over a couple of hours, no more buzz!
I can't say you'll damage anything or not, but it's a fair bet you'll need to make a teensy-tiny adjustment. If not now, then sometime down the road. As far as tools for adjustments go, this has been my tried-and-true companion for a while now…definitely worth the fifteen bucks I spent.
Invalid Link Removed
+1
The mechanical principles of doing a setup are not overly complicated (a search will give many good advices on how to do it). For the player-instrument interaction two things can be tweaked: the instrument can be adjusted (setup) and the player can be adjusted (playing technique adaption).
not mandatory if you have a good neck i wouldn't mess with it at all...flat wounds put a little bit more tension on the neck you might want to check just to make sure there is no forward bend ..or back bends...not sure what kind of bass you have or where your truss rod adjustment is but don't go poking around in there if you don't have the right tools if you need a tool for it i am sure you can find them for less than the price of new strings as someone else had said 
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A simple hex wrench set is all you need.
From your local Ace Hardware store.
Get a standard and metric set in case.
From your local Ace Hardware store.
Get a standard and metric set in case.
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I've always changed one string at a time, instead of removing all of them first. I've never had to adjust anything due to a string change.
