Wasn't the Acoustic 360/361 introduced around the same time?
I believe the 361 made about 170 watts. It was horn loaded for increased efficiency.
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Wasn't the Acoustic 360/361 introduced around the same time?
Getting “a more tube like sound” is so subjective, that you are going to get a lot of different responses.Anyone that understands this better than me, please correct me if I'm wrong.
But it seems to me that the whole deal of putting 1 to 3 tubes in the preamp section of a class D amp like many manufacturers are doing, is little more than a gimmick.
I've tested a few of these tube preamp head's compared to just solid state head's with no tubes at all and I haven't found much of a difference.
Recently I tried out the GK MB500 Fusion (3 tubes in preamp) against the Aguilar TH500 which has no tubes and I found the GK didn't do much for me but damn the TH500 was meaty, ballsy & Tubey.
Furthermore I see some companies trying to further mislead possibly unaware consumers by lighting the tubes with LEDs to further enhance the "Tube Experience".
One of these companies is Bugera but I'm not surprised after seeing their far fetched wattage ratings that they claim as well.
Do you guys agree or are there class D head's with preamp tubes that really get a more tube like sound.
I've tried the Markbass heads of this type and also was not dazzled enough to understand paying more for this feature.
Thanks.
Most of the amplifiers produced by ACC were solid-state, but a few models later in production were valve amps. The company is remembered in particular for its Acoustic 361 bass stack, consisting of an Acoustic 360 bass pre-amplifier and one or two Acoustic 361 W-bins, each featuring a built-in 200-watt RMS power amplifier and a rear-facing 18" Cerwin-Vegaloudspeaker.I believe the 361 made about 170 watts. It was horn loaded for increased efficiency.
Naa, I had one and I believe each cab had a 220watt power amp in the bottom. So, 2 361 bottoms delivered 440 watts thru 2 18" Cerwin Vegas. A potent rig by any standards!I believe the 361 made about 170 watts. It was horn loaded for increased efficiency.
Cmon, you make things a million times worse when you exaggerate.Yeah, as they say "All generalizations are false"
Getting “a more tube like sound” is so subjective, that you are going to get a lot of different responses...
...It baffles me how TB’ers will spend $1500+ on a big tube amp and then compare it to a $500 Class D amp, and blow off the $1000 Class D better designs. Oh well, don’t expect that to change any time soon.
"During the 1960s, Jack plugged his EB-3 into a stack of Marshall amps (Marshall 4x12s with Marshall 100 heads). His desire for greater volume induced him to crank up the volume control, unwittingly producing the heavy, distorted tone that became so popular in the ensuing years. Later, Jack had instrument technician Dan Armstrong install a diode into the EB-3's wiring to produce the same effect without overdriving his amplifiers."
I have no doubt that a pair of 361s was loud!Naa, I had one and I believe each cab had a 220watt power amp in the bottom. So, 2 361 bottoms delivered 440 watts thru 2 18" Cerwin Vegas. A potent rig by any standards!
Great story! A good natural world observation, then followed up with experiment and more observation.
There are quite a few diodes built into the signal path of many heads. Someone was trying to claim they were some kind of protection circuit.
If so, Rat should be selling these diode cables as extra protection for heads
Either spin could be a big seller.
He's pushing that "clipping diodes" claptrap again, eh? About once a year he starts in with that until someone sets him straight. Then he waits a while before he drops it again because I guess he thinks we've all forgotten about it.Ampeg SVTs and Trace Elliot V-types have antiparallel diodes arranged in a clipper circuit in the back end of their preamps. I have frequently seen the function of these diodes as clippers designed to prevent massive transient overload in the output section. Whether this circuit is designed to provide overdrive or protection would be a function of the level the diodes clip at in relation to the output section. If the output section produces full power and goes into over drive before the clippers, the diodes function as primarily protection. If the clippers overload before the output section reaches full power, the intent is to produce distortion.
The clippers are on the first gain stage following the master volume in the V-Types and just before the phase inverter in vintage SVTs. Logically, if the intent of these diodes is to produce over drive I would expect to see them earlier in the preamp...surely they would at least be before the master volume.
He's pushing that "clipping diodes" claptrap again, eh? About once a year he starts in with that until someone sets him straight. Then he waits a while before he drops it again because I guess he thinks we've all forgotten about it.
I've had some tube amps but not enough to be able to give an opinion other than generally favorable, but I think amp choice is like a lot of other things, it's more about what you are comfortable with than it is chasing some quantifiable unit of relative greatness.Seamonkey is one of those rare individuals...a tube amp expert who has never used a tube amp in his life![]()
Everything is a compromise when it comes to picking out gear. Need vs practicality vs available money.I've had some tube amps but not enough to be able to give an opinion other than generally favorable, but I think amp choice is like a lot of other things, it's more about what you are comfortable with than it is chasing some quantifiable unit of relative greatness.
If I recall correct, in SVT power amp overdrive and overdrive of the input diodes takes place about simultaneously. When power amp begins to clipping distort the diodes will also clipping limit the input signal, which - as mentioned - prevents harder overload of the output section.Ampeg SVTs and Trace Elliot V-types have antiparallel diodes arranged in a clipper circuit in the back end of their preamps. I have frequently seen the function of these diodes as clippers designed to prevent massive transient overload in the output section. Whether this circuit is designed to provide overdrive or protection would be a function of the level the diodes clip at in relation to the output section. If the output section produces full power and goes into over drive before the clippers, the diodes function as primarily protection. If the clippers overload before the output section reaches full power, the intent is to produce distortion.
If I recall correct, in SVT power amp overdrive and overdrive of the input diodes takes place about simultaneously. When power amp begins to clipping distort the diodes will also clipping limit the input signal, which - as mentioned - prevents harder overload of the output section.
I don't know what happens if you would remove those diodes but I suspect it would definitely make the output stage clip nastier than without them. Harder overload condition might aid grid conduction of the output stage (which is designed pretty robust in that regard, BTW) but that would lead to futher increase in screen current draw. Grid conduction usually causes screen current draw to increase rapidly, and the screen circuit was particularly one of the weak points and failure mechanisms of the early SVT design.
As far as I know, SVT design is derived from an "all-purpose" power amplifier aimed for industrial applications, such as driving electric motors. SVT was never intentionally designed as an audio amplifier but copied from an amplifier that drove a lathe motor. If you compare SVT design to typical tube -guitar- power amp you will notice it's a totally different kind of specimen and will feature very different characteristics regarding overall behavior under overdrive conditions.
Anyone that understands this better than me, please correct me if I'm wrong.
But it seems to me that the whole deal of putting 1 to 3 tubes in the preamp section of a class D amp like many manufacturers are doing, is little more than a gimmick.
I've tested a few of these tube preamp head's compared to just solid state head's with no tubes at all and I haven't found much of a difference.
Recently I tried out the GK MB500 Fusion (3 tubes in preamp) against the Aguilar TH500 which has no tubes and I found the GK didn't do much for me but damn the TH500 was meaty, ballsy & Tubey.
Furthermore I see some companies trying to further mislead possibly unaware consumers by lighting the tubes with LEDs to further enhance the "Tube Experience".
One of these companies is Bugera but I'm not surprised after seeing their far fetched wattage ratings that they claim as well.
Do you guys agree or are there class D head's with preamp tubes that really get a more tube like sound.
I've tried the Markbass heads of this type and also was not dazzled enough to understand paying more for this feature.
Thanks.
I don’t think any generalization works.
The only other head I would add, no longer available, is the MusicMan HD 150. SS pre and 4 6L6 power tubes. As I've posted frequently, the closest to a tube amp I've ever played, without tubes being in the preamp.We all hear it differently:
I had an SVT 3 Pro as well as a 7 Pro; maybe a little tubey but not to my liking
SWR SM400 - No tube tone and I rolled a bunch of vintage tubes through that head before giving up; nice and clean with no HPF; a real speaker killer
Alembic - Kinda tubey but the limited EQ was not for me
Shuttle Max 9.2 - Kinda tubey; nice amp
SVT, V4B, and any Ampeg tube pre - Tube City
Walkabout - Oh yeah; that's the business right there and really responds well to Telefunken and Amperex (IME)
They only get sold because 300 watts is not enough headroom for many (myself included)
I don't know what happens if you would remove those diodes but I suspect it would definitely make the output stage clip nastier than without them. Harder overload condition might aid grid conduction of the output stage (which is designed pretty robust in that regard, BTW) but that would lead to futher increase in screen current draw. Grid conduction usually causes screen current draw to increase rapidly, and the screen circuit was particularly one of the weak points and failure mechanisms of the early SVT design.
One of the Ampeg brand owners had removed the diodes. Then they shoehorned them back in. It may just they got put in for something, then people started liking the extra clipping, when a redesign engineer said they weren't needed and removed them, then people wanted that clipping back.