U.S. Peavey Club

[bigtone23]

[Invalid or Expired Link Removed]

Yeah I got a few questions about the Foundation you have for sale...umm first...what color is it!?!

What a joke, they got the backdrop looking pretty good, now all they need is a light!...but they're workin' on it I suppose!

Ok rant over, carry on...

Ha! I hear ya. Only those in the know can decipher that bass from those photos. That's here in town, I considered checking it out as the price may be pretty right, for the condition rating.
However, on the topic of P/J Peaveys, I played my Forum Plus last night for a little bit. Damn, I really love that bass!
No Foundation S for me!

 

[kodiakblair]

I think it would be fun to start a "show us your Peavey's" thread...?

Given how many some of us own this thread would run another 500 pages ; with not a word said .

 

[tallulahsdaddy]

I'm down to just two US Peaveys right now, having sold my Millennium Standard P/J. It was a nice bass, pretty unique and a very nice neck. It just didn't call out to me, possibly because the pickups, while nice, were just nothing to write home about. I didn't get as much for it as I thought I would, but I got back what I payed for it. The Cirrus 6 actually makes me a better bassist, and can do almost anything I need as far as tone, and the pink B-Ninety is a head turner and super fun to play!

 

[mb94952]

I lowered the price of my Foundation S in the classified, but speaking of
I think the same color gunmetal gray Foundation S on Reverb for only $384.99 was one of yours ? It has a mini toggle, but is not mentioned in the ad, so I'm thinking this seller doesn't know what it does.

 

[cmcbass]

I found the reason for my pickup woes. They were pasted together and to the pickguard with paint.The wonders of life!

 

[Larry Balara]

My 1983 T-40 has a problem with the phase switch. When the switch is disengaged the bridge pickup shuts completely off! Does anyone here have any idea of the cause?

 

[wild4oldcars]

My 1983 T-40 has a problem with the phase switch. When the switch is disengaged the bridge pickup shuts completely off! Does anyone here have any idea of the cause?

The phase switch is wired to the bridge pickup, so when you change the phase, you also change which of the coils is active. The fact that only one way works likely means that one of the coils is bad.

 

[ElBecko59]

I lowered the price of my Foundation S in the classified, but speaking of
I think the same color gunmetal gray Foundation S on Reverb for only $384.99 was one of yours ? It has a mini toggle, but is not mentioned in the ad, so I'm thinking this seller doesn't know what it does.

My pre-owned gold Foundation 2000 came with a added mini toggle and I can't hear a difference when switched , I have yet to inspect the wiring to see what it is actually going on inside - For now it's a mystery switch

 

[Larry Balara]

The phase switch is wired to the bridge pickup, so when you change the phase, you also change which of the coils is active. The fact that only one way works likely means that one of the coils is bad.

I really do not know what is going on with this bass. When I purchased it the previous owner changed the phase switch to an on/off switch using a 3 way switch. I wanted to change it back. So I did. At first everything worked fine. Then the phase switch/bridge pickup problem mentioned above started and the neck pickup started working intermittently. I had been working on it for two days. I check all the connections and made sure the solder on the polls weren't touching, etc. Still no go!! I got so mad I considered replacing the pickups and the preamp. So today I just said forget it. I listed it "for parts or not working" on Reverb and Ebay. After doing that I decided to try it again. So I plugged it in, and everything works perfectly. What the . . .?

 

[wild4oldcars]

I really do not know what is going on with this bass. When I purchased it the previous owner changed the phase switch to an on/off switch using a 3 way switch. I wanted to change it back. So I did. At first everything worked fine. Then the phase switch/bridge pickup problem mentioned above started and the neck pickup started working intermittently. I had been working on it for two days. I check all the connections and made sure the solder on the polls weren't touching, etc. Still no go!! I got so mad I considered replacing the pickups and the preamp. So today I just said forget it. I listed it "for parts or not working" on Reverb and Ebay. After doing that I decided to try it again. So I plugged it in, and everything works perfectly. What the . . .?

It's important to note that when everything is turned up to 10, the bass is only running in single coil mode. So that may mask any bad coils if theyre the ones being blended in/out by the tone controls. I might recommend desoldering the center taps (usually red wire) so that the pickups are always in full humbucker mode, and doing a tap test on the blades to determine who is and isn't working.

 

[Larry Balara]

And each coil is a blade right? So I can just tap the blade?

 

[wild4oldcars]

And each coil is a blade right? So I can just tap the blade?

Correct

 

[songwriter21]

Got my new-to-me GV set up last night, and luckily, it's a thumbs-up again (not my first one). The neck straightened out with around three 1/8 turns on that fantastically simple truss wheel...why every instrument doesn't utilize this, is beyond me.

Anyway, I replaced the bridge with a Hipshot A style, because frankly, I think ABMs suck. Whether on a Cirrus or GV, the action comes nowhere near low enough for me, or even close to what I'd call low action. Granted, the GV has the micro-tilt feature, but I didn't have to bother. The Hipshot instantly lowered the strings to the frets, literally, so it was just a matter of raising the action. How much room left on the saddles looks like this bridge was made for the bass. Peavey must've had a nice deal with ABM, because I think Hipshot blows them away. The Hipshot A certainly is heftier than the flimsy ABM, which doesn't at least have the weight of thr Cirruses' ABMs. My guess is that the GV's stock bridge weight is lighter, perhaps because it's maybe not brass, and it's got a shorter base plate. That shorter plate made intonation easier on the Hipshot. It's worlds easier to set up than the ABM, too. Yes, I notice a nice improvement in tone and sustain with switching out the stock bridge to the Hipshot. I did this with a B-style on a previous bass (that was the first time), and was impressed that there was how much of a difference from stock.

The Pope preamp really brings those VFLs to life, wow. I thought my old tiger-eye Cirrus sounded good, and now it would've sounded that much better with this preamp. I like that you can use the bass in passive...yes, with active pickups, and also use passive tone while in active mode. It gives more presence, rather than just trebly high-end. The bass knob is strong, but not crazy , treble is the same, and indeed works well with the passive tone knob. The lo and high mids are what bring this sucker to another level. I'm not a big fan of DR Fat Beams (what came on the bass), but the Pope has no trouble getting more snarl and attitude from the strings, rather than a scooped tone and that somewhat undefined or "fat" low end on the B. The wiring job in the cavity is nice, and man, installing that many wires looks INTIMIDATING. So, my hat's off to whomever was brave enough to do that work. Everything is silent, and only somewhat noisy when you crank the high mids along with upping the trim pot for active mode. I turned it down to match passive mode.

Lastly, the sustain is, not surprisingly, ridiculous. The B sounds like the voice of God...no Dingwall necessary, imo. Oh, and I'll be putting on Hipshot Ultralites this weekend, as there's some neck dive, but not as much now with the new bridge. It should be pretty balanced when the headstock weight lessens.

I'll get pics this weekend...cheers!

 

[PeaveyPlayer]

Got my new-to-me GV set up last night, and luckily, it's a thumbs-up again (not my first one). The neck straightened out with around three 1/8 turns on that fantastically simple truss wheel...why every instrument doesn't utilize this, is beyond me.

Anyway, I replaced the bridge with a Hipshot A style, because frankly, I think ABMs suck. Whether on a Cirrus or GV, the action comes nowhere near low enough for me, or even close to what I'd call low action. Granted, the GV has the micro-tilt feature, but I didn't have to bother. The Hipshot instantly lowered the strings to the frets, literally, so it was just a matter of raising the action. How much room left on the saddles looks like this bridge was made for the bass. Peavey must've had a nice deal with ABM, because I think Hipshot blows them away. The Hipshot A certainly is heftier than the flimsy ABM, which doesn't at least have the weight of thr Cirruses' ABMs. My guess is that the GV's stock bridge weight is lighter, perhaps because it's maybe not brass, and it's got a shorter base plate. That shorter plate made intonation easier on the Hipshot. It's worlds easier to set up than the ABM, too. Yes, I notice a nice improvement in tone and sustain with switching out the stock bridge to the Hipshot. I did this with a B-style on a previous bass (that was the first time), and was impressed that there was how much of a difference from stock.

The Pope preamp really brings those VFLs to life, wow. I thought my old tiger-eye Cirrus sounded good, and now it would've sounded that much better with this preamp. I like that you can use the bass in passive...yes, with active pickups, and also use passive tone while in active mode. It gives more presence, rather than just trebly high-end. The bass knob is strong, but not crazy , treble is the same, and indeed works well with the passive tone knob. The lo and high mids are what bring this sucker to another level. I'm not a big fan of DR Fat Beams (what came on the bass), but the Pope has no trouble getting more snarl and attitude from the strings, rather than a scooped tone and that somewhat undefined or "fat" low end on the B. The wiring job in the cavity is nice, and man, installing that many wires looks INTIMIDATING. So, my hat's off to whomever was brave enough to do that work. Everything is silent, and only somewhat noisy when you crank the high mids along with upping the trim pot for active mode. I turned it down to match passive mode.

Lastly, the sustain is, not surprisingly, ridiculous. The B sounds like the voice of God...no Dingwall necessary, imo. Oh, and I'll be putting on Hipshot Ultralites this weekend, as there's some neck dive, but not as much now with the new bridge. It should be pretty balanced when the headstock weight lessens.

I'll get pics this weekend...cheers!

Which string spacing did you chose ?
17.5?



been having problems with mine and not a fan of the micro tilt either

 

[songwriter21]

Which string spacing did you chose ?
17.5?



been having problems with mine and not a fan of the micro tilt either

It's their 17mm model, which fits the Cirruses, too (the only A that doesn't have the separating bars between the saddles). The screw holes didn't line up exactly with the GV, but I had no trouble screwing down the bridge without forcing the screws (they were pretty close). Btw, I don't mind the tilt function, but it's just nice not to have to go through the extra steps involved.

 

[songwriter21]

Also, I still had the factory case from my first GV, so all is in harmony again.

 

[Chuck M]

I find it interesting that the ABM is my favorite bridge and others, like yourself, prefer the Hipshot. I have two basses with Hipshot bridges. They are my Roscoe fretless 6 and my Modulus Q6. The bridges are fine and do what they should do but I find it easier for me to set up the ABM.

I recall the first bass I bought that had an ABM and I did not care for the bridge since I was not used to the odd way adjustments are made. I came to appreciate the ABM when I learned that I can always properly set intonation on a wound (not contact core) B string. On the Hipshot you sometimes have to reduce the length of the saddle adjustment screw or the spring or both to get the string long enough for proper intonation.

Peavey used the Hipshot bridge on the USA Millennium basses and those basses have the well earned reputation of requiring a neck shim to set the neck angle. I have yet to find a bass with an ABM that I could not get the action low enough and yet your experience is common. I have read many complaints about the ABM not going low enough. I recall only one of my Cirrus basses that has some of the ABM bridge saddles as low as they can go.

Years ago I read an article by Rick Turner in Guitar player magazine. Rick stated that it is more accurate to set intonation using the harmonic and fretted notes at the 19th fret instead of the 12th fret. I have found that intonation is indeed better when I use Rick Turner's method.

I am happy that your GV is working out for you. It certainly is a beauty.

 

[AudioTaper]

Got my new-to-me GV set up last night, and luckily, it's a thumbs-up again (not my first one). The neck straightened out with around three 1/8 turns on that fantastically simple truss wheel...why every instrument doesn't utilize this, is beyond me.

Anyway, I replaced the bridge with a Hipshot A style, because frankly, I think ABMs suck. Whether on a Cirrus or GV, the action comes nowhere near low enough for me, or even close to what I'd call low action. Granted, the GV has the micro-tilt feature, but I didn't have to bother. The Hipshot instantly lowered the strings to the frets, literally, so it was just a matter of raising the action. How much room left on the saddles looks like this bridge was made for the bass. Peavey must've had a nice deal with ABM, because I think Hipshot blows them away. The Hipshot A certainly is heftier than the flimsy ABM, which doesn't at least have the weight of thr Cirruses' ABMs. My guess is that the GV's stock bridge weight is lighter, perhaps because it's maybe not brass, and it's got a shorter base plate. That shorter plate made intonation easier on the Hipshot. It's worlds easier to set up than the ABM, too. Yes, I notice a nice improvement in tone and sustain with switching out the stock bridge to the Hipshot. I did this with a B-style on a previous bass (that was the first time), and was impressed that there was how much of a difference from stock.

The Pope preamp really brings those VFLs to life, wow. I thought my old tiger-eye Cirrus sounded good, and now it would've sounded that much better with this preamp. I like that you can use the bass in passive...yes, with active pickups, and also use passive tone while in active mode. It gives more presence, rather than just trebly high-end. The bass knob is strong, but not crazy , treble is the same, and indeed works well with the passive tone knob. The lo and high mids are what bring this sucker to another level. I'm not a big fan of DR Fat Beams (what came on the bass), but the Pope has no trouble getting more snarl and attitude from the strings, rather than a scooped tone and that somewhat undefined or "fat" low end on the B. The wiring job in the cavity is nice, and man, installing that many wires looks INTIMIDATING. So, my hat's off to whomever was brave enough to do that work. Everything is silent, and only somewhat noisy when you crank the high mids along with upping the trim pot for active mode. I turned it down to match passive mode.

Lastly, the sustain is, not surprisingly, ridiculous. The B sounds like the voice of God...no Dingwall necessary, imo. Oh, and I'll be putting on Hipshot Ultralites this weekend, as there's some neck dive, but not as much now with the new bridge. It should be pretty balanced when the headstock weight lessens.

I'll get pics this weekend...cheers!

I find it interesting that the ABM is my favorite bridge and others, like yourself, prefer the Hipshot. I have two basses with Hipshot bridges. They are my Roscoe fretless 6 and my Modulus Q6. The bridges are fine and do what they should do but I find it easier for me to set up the ABM.

I recall the first bass I bought that had an ABM and I did not care for the bridge since I was not used to the odd way adjustments are made. I came to appreciate the ABM when I learned that I can always properly set intonation on a wound (not contact core) B string. On the Hipshot you sometimes have to reduce the length of the saddle adjustment screw or the spring or both to get the string long enough for proper intonation.

Peavey used the Hipshot bridge on the USA Millennium basses and those basses have the well earned reputation of requiring a neck shim to set the neck angle. I have yet to find a bass with an ABM that I could not get the action low enough and yet your experience is common. I have read many complaints about the ABM not going low enough. I recall only one of my Cirrus basses that has some of the ABM bridge saddles as low as they can go.

Years ago I read an article by Rick Turner in Guitar player magazine. Rick stated that it is more accurate to set intonation using the harmonic and fretted notes at the 19th fret instead of the 12th fret. I have found that intonation is indeed better when I use Rick Turner's method.

I am happy that your GV is working out for you. It certainly is a beauty.

While the hardware on the Millennium says it's "from Hipshot", it doesnt seem to be nearly the quality of the rest of the Hipshot USA items I have used. I picked up a Peavey NOS Millennium bridge for a project. Its aluminum and very lightweight. It doesnt seem as well machined as I would expect.

The brass Hipshot A-Style I installed on the Wenge Cirrus is of much higher quality.
I'll pay more for the Hipshot USA parts.

 

[songwriter21]

While the hardware on the Millennium says it's "from Hipshot", it doesnt seem to be nearly the quality of the rest of the Hipshot USA items I have used. I picked up a Peavey NOS Millennium bridge for a project. Its aluminum and very lightweight. It doesnt seem as well machined as I would expect.

The brass Hipshot A-Style I installed on the Wenge Cirrus is of much higher quality.
I'll pay more for the Hipshot USA parts.

I don't remember the hardware on my previous Millenniums as being lesser quality, but the bridge may have been aluminum, who knows. All I know, is that a heavy bridge (brass, steel, etc) is preferred by me for further preventing neck dive.

 

[kodiakblair]

fantastically simple truss wheel...why every instrument doesn't utilize this, is beyond me.

Probably because a similar method was used on ultra cheap 60's Japanese instruments.