Enjoy the benefits of a premium membership!
Upgrade Account
-
TalkBass has been independent since 1998. Add your voice.
Create a free account to reply to discussions, view embedded media, and browse with fewer display ads.
Join free Log in
Want zero display ads or expanded classifieds tools? Compare plans.
U.S. Peavey Club
- Thread starter Soundchaser11460
- Start date
-
- Tags
- club
Where did you get the info this is a 79 T45. Is it possible it's a 79 neck on a 82 or 83 t 45 body also the body edges don't seem rounded like my T 45.
Here's a pic of the Sarzo single coil mod for the neck pickup. For the bridge PU, it's green/white pair would also be soldered to ground. This is easily reversible. Of course a switch could be added to ground the coil taps if you want that feature. If both PUs are done, opposite polarity coils would need to be used to reduce hum when both PUs are on.
Another mod I've done to all my 5 knob DynaBass type preamps is to have the Passive Tone control enabled all the time so it works with Active or Passive modes. I find that in the Active mode it smooths out the action of the High control and helps control the new string "zing" that bothers me so much. It will be inserted between the output of the preamp and the output jack so it will also reduce any hiss from the preamp.
The two solder pads that are marked on the Active/Passive switch connections are soldered together to make this mod, which is also easily reversible. Use caution when first trying this mod and have the amp volume turned all the way off. If the wrong pads on the Active/Passive switch are soldered together, the preamp may oscillate.
The location of the Passive Tone cap is also marked for anyone who may wish to try other values. It's a .033uF from the factory, which I think works well.
Once your iron's hot, it takes less time to do than to read about it.
mech
Another mod I've done to all my 5 knob DynaBass type preamps is to have the Passive Tone control enabled all the time so it works with Active or Passive modes. I find that in the Active mode it smooths out the action of the High control and helps control the new string "zing" that bothers me so much. It will be inserted between the output of the preamp and the output jack so it will also reduce any hiss from the preamp.
The two solder pads that are marked on the Active/Passive switch connections are soldered together to make this mod, which is also easily reversible. Use caution when first trying this mod and have the amp volume turned all the way off. If the wrong pads on the Active/Passive switch are soldered together, the preamp may oscillate.
The location of the Passive Tone cap is also marked for anyone who may wish to try other values. It's a .033uF from the factory, which I think works well.
Once your iron's hot, it takes less time to do than to read about it.
mech
Here's a pic of the Sarzo single coil mod for the neck pickup. For the bridge PU, it's green/white pair would also be soldered to ground. This is easily reversible. Of course a switch could be added to ground the coil taps if you want that feature. If both PUs are done, opposite polarity coils would need to be used to reduce hum when both PUs are on.
Another mod I've done to all my 5 knob DynaBass type preamps is to have the Passive Tone control enabled all the time so it works with Active or Passive modes. I find that in the Active mode it smooths out the action of the High control and helps control the new string "zing" that bothers me so much. It will be inserted between the output of the preamp and the output jack so it will also reduce any hiss from the preamp.
The two solder pads that are marked on the Active/Passive switch connections are soldered together to make this mod, which is also easily reversible. Use caution when first trying this mod and have the amp volume turned all the way off. If the wrong pads on the Active/Passive switch are soldered together, the preamp may oscillate.
The location of the Passive Tone cap is also marked for anyone who may wish to try other values. It's a .033uF from the factory, which I think works well.
Once your iron's hot, it takes less time to do than to read about it.
mech
Wow Mech, that is SO COOL !! Another reason why I love Peavey so darn much.
So, do you have coil tap switches, or once the mod is done as in your photo it's always on ? So, it went from humbucker to single coil, but if you added a switch you could do it at will ? Also, I love your mod of having EQ in active and passive. You are the man !!!!
Right now it's always single coil since the tap is soldered to ground. I doubt I'd drill a hole for another switch but if I find I'm lacking something live I may set it up for active all the time and use the Active/Passive switch to tap the coil.
Just another red Sarzo with a little secret.....
mech
I saw Rudy Sarzo play his signature bass in Quiet Riot in the 80's!
My lone Peavey bass is a 1985 Foundation 4 string in all black with solid maple neck.
I haven't spent much time here as a newbie but how do you Peavey players like the 2 piece split maple neck on Foundations like mine?
This thing feels extremely solid and sounds great too thru my USA David Eden 'the metro' 2x10 combo!
The neck looks nice and aged with a nice patina but I am very tempted to go ahead and sand & polish the neck and frets (which I do to my guitars).
I am mainly a rosewood board player in guitars.
What should I do with the maple fretboard on this 1985 Foundation? Leave it alone or start with 1000 grit then 2000 etc?
My lone Peavey bass is a 1985 Foundation 4 string in all black with solid maple neck.
I haven't spent much time here as a newbie but how do you Peavey players like the 2 piece split maple neck on Foundations like mine?
This thing feels extremely solid and sounds great too thru my USA David Eden 'the metro' 2x10 combo!
The neck looks nice and aged with a nice patina but I am very tempted to go ahead and sand & polish the neck and frets (which I do to my guitars).
I am mainly a rosewood board player in guitars.
What should I do with the maple fretboard on this 1985 Foundation? Leave it alone or start with 1000 grit then 2000 etc?
Foundations through Edens, sounds just like my rig. Use blue painters tape and tape off the fret board, then steel wool on the frets. Otherwise the finish of the fretboard will not match the "nice patina" of the rest of the neck.
Are peavy a date stamped anywhere. I know the year just curious if there are neck stamps or anything.
On the older Peaveys the date code on the pots is a good indicator. It's a 4 number code with the first two being the year and the last two being the week. The pots may have been made from a few months or a few days before being used.
mech
thanks just won a 79 T-40 and from the serial number peavy said it was built and assembled first week of may 1979. which is super cool because i was born may 3 1979 wanted to know where else to look at dates. thanks
I am filling in the dings on the maple neck with super glue, then scrape them down before sanding with 1000 and then 2000 and 0000 steel wool.
I cannot stand chips on thick poly finishes!
This 1985 Foundation weighs 9 1/2 lbs, is this considered one of the lighter ones?
The overall quality seems very good in terms of the neck and hardware....I did notice one stripped Phillips screw on one of the tuners, but that was looking at everything with a magnifying glass LOL!
Trade it to me for my 1985 Foundation with rosewood. I am a diehard maple guy.
Found a T40 locally that I'm gonna look at tomorrow. What tool(s) will I need to adjust the truss rod? I know my old Yamaha needs a metric socket. Is the T40 similar?
Thanks
Thanks
