• TalkBass has been independent since 1998. Add your voice.
    Create a free account to reply to discussions, view embedded media, and browse with fewer display ads.
    Join freeLog in
    Want zero display ads or expanded classifieds tools? Compare plans.

U.S. Peavey Club

Found a T40 locally that I'm gonna look at tomorrow. What tool(s) will I need to adjust the truss rod?...

#1 Phillips to remove the TR cover and, yep, the trusty Gibson style 5/16" truss rod tool. Or you can make one from a 5/16" hex wrench and 5/16" thin wall deep socket from a pawn shop with a hacksaw and file.

mech

5-16TRTool.jpg
 
Thanks guys. Fingers crossed that this one's a good one.

I've never laid hands on one. Is there anything in particular that I should check or look for that's a problem unique to T40s?

Also, it's gonna have a 1.625" (1 5/8) nutwidth right? If it's 1.75, then I don't even need to make the drive.... can't adjust to old P bass dimensions.
 
I just picked up a 87' Fury with a hard case for $150. My new favorite bass. The bassist I bought it from set it up awesome, love the way this plays and sounds. Going to gig with it Saturday!

5ye15i.jpg




That is a pretty bass. I am still looking out for the 80's Foundations.
I just bought his 91' cousin. Will get some better pics in the sun tomorrow. Really solid feeling basses! Someone put an extra screw on the pick guard.

30bfqxj.jpg

15p1zet.jpg
 
Thanks guys. Fingers crossed that this one's a good one.

I've never laid hands on one. Is there anything in particular that I should check or look for that's a problem unique to T40s?

Also, it's gonna have a 1.625" (1 5/8) nutwidth right? If it's 1.75, then I don't even need to make the drive.... can't adjust to old P bass dimensions.

Jedi,

I don't know if you've made the drive yet, but, yeah, usually around 1.625".

The biggest thing to do is make sure you're familiar with how all the controls work. Scratchy pots are easy to spot, but you really need to know what all the knobs and switches do, in order to evaluate the bass's electronics. (You may already know all this. If so, I apologize...) OEM replacement parts are getting expensive, so any serious electronic or mechanical flaws could be deal-breakers.

I'm not aware of any "known" issues, although one local tech swears that the T's were known for having less-than-stable necks. I haven't seen much of this firsthand, though.

You didn't say what year this bass was, but if it's an early one, make sure you're comfortable with a slab body. I prefer the contoured T-40s, but I also own a Ric 4003, so what do I know...?

Happy hunting!
 
Jedi,



I don't know if you've made the drive yet, but, yeah, usually around 1.625".



The biggest thing to do is make sure you're familiar with how all the controls work. Scratchy pots are easy to spot, but you really need to know what all the knobs and switches do, in order to evaluate the bass's electronics. (You may already know all this. If so, I apologize...) OEM replacement parts are getting expensive, so any serious electronic or mechanical flaws could be deal-breakers.



I'm not aware of any "known" issues, although one local tech swears that the T's were known for having less-than-stable necks. I haven't seen much of this firsthand, though.



You didn't say what year this bass was, but if it's an early one, make sure you're comfortable with a slab body. I prefer the contoured T-40s, but I also own a Ric 4003, so what do I know...?



Happy hunting!


Thanks. Didn't make the drive.... we have a close relative that has gotten very sick starting yesterday. I hate cancer!!! Anyways, all nonessential activities have stopped for the moment.

I did snap this screenshot recently so I would know the electronics: ImageUploadedByTalkBass1387501018.796399.jpg
 
Ok so what's a good price for. A T-20 I bought my 88 foundation pearl white for 100 bucks from the original owner (my guitar player), my 82 T-45 sunburst from a local music store who is a peavy dealer 200 bucks, just bought a 79 T-40 natural finish for 295 + 48 shipping and I'm looking at a 83 T-20 red that's 249 has knobs looks in good shape is that a good price?
 
Ok so what's a good price for. A T-20 I bought my 88 foundation pearl white for 100 bucks from the original owner (my guitar player), my 82 T-45 sunburst from a local music store who is a peavy dealer 200 bucks, just bought a 79 T-40 natural finish for 295 + 48 shipping and I'm looking at a 83 T-20 red that's 249 has knobs looks in good shape is that a good price?

$249 is fair if it's in great shape. I've seen 'em for less, I've seen 'em for more.

The only issue is this: Once you own an '83 T-20, you're obligated to then go get its successor, an '83 slanted SF Fury.
 
NICE score on the very red T-20! AFAIK, that's a fairly rare color. For $250.00, I'd say you got a deal-and-a-half!

I paid $250 and shipping for a "natural" one with OHSC, and $350.00 including shipping for a "natural" T20FL with OHSC in the last year. I am now the happy owner of one of each of the "T-series" basses. At least I think I am....I have seen a few references to, but never any proof of the existence of a production "T40FL" fretless.

I'd love to have someone tell me with absolute authority whether or not the T40FL was ever a real production model, or simply a couple of salemen samples or prototypes. If it actually was a production model, then my hunt continues.
 
Medic579, all I can tell you is to keep looking. It took me the better part of a year to find a T20FL that I considered "affordable". There will always be some idiot on Feebay who thinks he can get $600.00-900.00 for one, but I dismissed those out of hand when I was still searching.

The usual places are still a good prospect for finding that elusive target....Craigslist, Elderly Instruments, Music123, GuitarCenter used, etc. I found mine after someone had posted in here looking to find a value on his mom's old bass. After weeks of communication, and several pictures, I made my best offer up front, and a deal was struck.

The deal turned out well for me, but it was a calculated risk. Paying what I considered to be a reasonable retail price for a fairly rare bass I really wanted was made acceptable because I was able to us PayPal, which at least has some protections in place in case the item wasn't up to snuff.

Good luck in your search! In the meantime, you will be able to enjoy the incredible tonal quality of the Super-Ferrite pickup in your new T20, which I think rivals any P-bass pickup I've ever heard! And, you will own one of the most desirable colors ever produced in the old T-series Peaveys.
 
NICE score on the very red T-20! AFAIK, that's a fairly rare color. For $250.00, I'd say you got a deal-and-a-half!

I have seen a few references to, but never any proof of the existence of a production "T40FL" fretless.

I'd love to have someone tell me with absolute authority whether or not the T40FL was ever a real production model, or simply a couple of salemen samples or prototypes. If it actually was a production model, then my hunt continues.

They're out there. I see them occasionally on ebay. They will always have a "FL" designation in the decal. Same with all the early fretless Peaveys.

http://www.bing.com/images/search?q...bass&qpvt=Peavey+T+40+fretless+bass&FORM=IGRE
 

Latest posts