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U.S. Peavey Club

#8,541
SpasticTastic said:
The people who praise the neck are spot on. The neck is gooorgeeous
Click to expand...
I have 3 Axcelerators - all 5 strings though. The necks are absolutely perfect for me. I tend to go for a warmer old school sound with some mid grind and the top end rolled off slightly. The Axcelerator does it for me. I'm a big fan of DR Fat Beams on them, and am trying out some EB cobalt flats and am pleased so far. I hope they work out for you as nicely as they did for me.
 
#8,542
geoff_in_nc said:
I have 3 Axcelerators - all 5 strings though. The necks are absolutely perfect for me. I tend to go for a warmer old school sound with some mid grind and the top end rolled off slightly. The Axcelerator does it for me. I'm a big fan of DR Fat Beams on them, and am trying out some EB cobalt flats and am pleased so far. I hope they work out for you as nicely as they did for me.
Click to expand...

Yeah I said I was gonna try Superbrights, but after thinnking about it, I might just go for a set of regular Dunlop nickels. Since the Axe is supposed to be a bright bass, I think stainless steel strings might make it too bright. A set of normal niclkels might ad some midrange growl and warmth I need. When I want the high end aggression, I could always dial some in with the preamp.

EDIT: Aw the hell with it, went with a set of the light nickel Super Brights.
 
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#8,543
I decided to raise the pickups on the fury, so I put some pill bottle cotton under them.

Used the rumble 200 without the 112 cab, one less thing to unload/setup and I had noticed it sounds really good to push the 115 a little harder on its own. It was like angry piano but with nice bass balls, and with the overdrive it was totally geddy Lee tone. Levels and overall low end impact were comparable with the vfl foundation, and the fury neck seems a little slimmer. The fury pickup has a really good punch to it and the bass is a joy to play, very fast neck.

Would a 93 foundation have that same neck profile?
 
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#8,545
My local Craigslist has a Foundation 5 with a red body and maple fretboard, has the two VFL pickups.
They are asking $225 for it.
If anybody is interested, let me know, I would be willing to help.
It's not my bass.
[Invalid or Expired Link Removed]
 
#8,546
I'm having a few issues with my Dyna5 that I picked up recently. I was in the process of installing new strings and discovered the bridge is missing springs on the B/E strings. (see pic)
UPDATE: After loosening the intonation screws, I realized the springs are actually there. They were cranked all the way down.

One of the bridge height screws is stripped. Anyone know what the replacement size is?
 

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#8,547
Xavier said:
I'm having a few issues with my Dyna5 that I picked up recently. I was in the process of installing new strings and discovered the bridge is missing springs on the B/E strings. (see pic)
UPDATE: After loosening the intonation screws, I realized the springs are actually there. They were cranked all the way down.

One of the bridge height screws is stripped. Anyone know what the replacement size is?
Click to expand...

I've had to remove springs from the B string saddle on some Schaller roller bridges for them to intonate. Seems the 5 string bridge was installed in the same location as the 4 string version. An overlooked 3/16" detail in the design. Wouldn't worry to much over it. The springs just help hold the saddle in place while changing strings. The Allen socket in the screw may not be stripped. They will stop up with crud or rust over the years. A drop of penetrating oil and some time usually loosens it up. A small pointy object to stir it up and out and there you are. Don't know the size but it's probably metric. If it is stripped and you have to remove it use needle nose pliers from the bottom if there is enough to grab. A drop of penetrating oil and some time will help there if it's necessary. The hole can be re-tapped for a commonly avaible one. If the saddles show signs of corrosion (white flaky metal) in the holes it may be time for a new bridge. The die cast aluminum is porous, swells from moisture and will really bind the small screws. I have saddles from a chrome Schaller roller soaking in a penetrating solution trying to free screws up. If the screw doesn't come out the saddle is toast unless you have a really good drill press and a carbide bit with a good machinists vice for accurate positioning and a good hold. Anymore, on anything old that passes through my hands, I disassemble the hardware and lube all the screws with a very small amount of Vaseline. Roll them between my finger and thumb. Better dust than rust.
 
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#8,548
Hey guys...I need to put new strings on my Millennium JJ. It came with some weak-ass worn out round wounds and I just haven't got around to changing them. Can I have some recommendations please? What are you using and liking?

I'm leaning towards Slinkys but very open at this point.
 
#8,549
Picked up this 1st model Dyna Bass 5 a couple of months ago for $200 w/case. The deals are still out there if you keep an eye open. It had been set up left handed so there is a strap button hole in the lower horn and some buckle rash on the back. Cleaned it up, changed the hardware to chrome with Goto GB707 tuners to get rid of neck dive. Pickups are wired series humbucking with the coil tap like I've done on the Foundations I have. This thing sounds massive. Had to lower the neck PU to reign it in some. The tone and graphic on the Kilo Bass is flat. Playing either "Running Down a Dream" or "Just Got Paid" using my middle finger nail as a pick.

17 crop 3.jpg
 
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#8,550
mech said:
Picked up this 1st model Dyna Bass 5 a couple of months ago for $200 w/case. The deals are still out there if you keep an eye open. It had been set up left handed so there is a strap button hole in the lower horn and some buckle rash on the back. Cleaned it up, changed the hardware to chrome with Goto GB707 tuners to get rid of neck dive. Pickups are wired series humbucking with the coil tap like I've done on the Foundations I have. This thing sounds massive. Had to lower the neck PU to reign it in some. The tone and graphic on the Kilo Bass is flat. Playing either "Running Down a Dream" or "Just Got Paid" using my middle finger nail as a pick.

View attachment 1057258
Click to expand...
Love that color. Want one of those very badly......soon I hope.
 
#8,554
Runnerman said:
Hey guys...I need to put new strings on my Millennium JJ. It came with some weak-ass worn out round wounds and I just haven't got around to changing them. Can I have some recommendations please? What are you using and liking?

I'm leaning towards Slinkys but very open at this point.
Click to expand...
I just recently set my Millennium up with Cirrus Nickel plated roundwounds and I'm pleased with them so far.I've also used Fender 8250 Taperwounds on it and really liked them,but my local store does not carry them anymore and got the Peavey strings as I have them on my Cirrus bass.
 
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#8,556
mech said:
Picked up this 1st model Dyna Bass 5 a couple of months ago for $200 w/case. The deals are still out there if you keep an eye open. It had been set up left handed so there is a strap button hole in the lower horn and some buckle rash on the back. Cleaned it up, changed the hardware to chrome with Goto GB707 tuners to get rid of neck dive. Pickups are wired series humbucking with the coil tap like I've done on the Foundations I have. This thing sounds massive. Had to lower the neck PU to reign it in some. The tone and graphic on the Kilo Bass is flat. Playing either "Running Down a Dream" or "Just Got Paid" using my middle finger nail as a pick.

View attachment 1057258
Click to expand...
Brother mech,did you have to show some skin for those beads? Or was it because of that bad a$$ bass you're playing?
 
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#8,557
mech said:
I've had to remove springs from the B string saddle on some Schaller roller bridges for them to intonate. Seems the 5 string bridge was installed in the same location as the 4 string version. An overlooked 3/16" detail in the design. Wouldn't worry to much over it. The springs just help hold the saddle in place while changing strings. The Allen socket in the screw may not be stripped. They will stop up with crud or rust over the years. A drop of penetrating oil and some time usually loosens it up. A small pointy object to stir it up and out and there you are. Don't know the size but it's probably metric. If it is stripped and you have to remove it use needle nose pliers from the bottom if there is enough to grab. A drop of penetrating oil and some time will help there if it's necessary. The hole can be re-tapped for a commonly avaible one. If the saddles show signs of corrosion (white flaky metal) in the holes it may be time for a new bridge. The die cast aluminum is porous, swells from moisture and will really bind the small screws. I have saddles from a chrome Schaller roller soaking in a penetrating solution trying to free screws up. If the screw doesn't come out the saddle is toast unless you have a really good drill press and a carbide bit with a good machinists vice for accurate positioning and a good hold. Anymore, on anything old that passes through my hands, I disassemble the hardware and lube all the screws with a very small amount of Vaseline. Roll them between my finger and thumb. Better dust than rust.
Click to expand...

Thanks for all the advice. I was able to use some height screws from an old Ibanez bridge to replace the corroded ones. It took a few tedious days of adjusting the truss and neck tilt to get it setup properly. I got the action super low and the B is less floppy now. I'm amazed how powerful and versatile the EQ w/ferrites are. Now I just need to find a matching 4 stringer Dyna or Foundation.
 
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#8,559
gfaulkner said:
Brother mech,did you have to show some skin for those beads? Or was it because of that bad a$$ bass you're playing?
Click to expand...

I'll never tell!!! :)

Xavier said:
I can live with it, but I also have a bit of neck dive on my Dyna. The body is definitely lighter. Do you happen to know the body material?
Click to expand...

Solid colors are probably poplar. They did use some alder, too, as best I can tell. All the neck throughs I've handled, Unity and LTD, are pretty heavy and I think the owners manual states maple.
 
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