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U.S. Peavey Club
- Thread starter Soundchaser11460
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I could have taken a smidge more wood out for the CTS pot. It’s a very tight fit and I’d also like to have the option to make it sit deeper into the bass, so all the pot shafts are the same length. Will I remove everything and pull out the router? Only if some other issue warrants a disassembly.
I’ll report back after band rehearsal Tuesday.
I bought one in 1987... With rubber band knobs, ferrites, titans, rosewood and mahogany it was $225. I remember it being like 3 months to build it.
They shipped without any finish. Silly me... I put tung oil on it and clunky bridge.
For some reason patriots were done in mahogany more often
oh, they're completely unfinished??
I haven't received numbers 2&3, and 1 is in storage at the moment. Number one is ridiculously clean. I paid about the same for it as for the other two combined. I added the hipshot.
I haven't received numbers 2&3, and 1 is in storage at the moment. Number one is ridiculously clean. I paid about the same for it as for the other two combined. I added the hipshot.
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The bodies were shipped just sanded smooth... they may have had some type of light oil finish.
As they wore, they would shine up in spots.
I believe there were better materials to put on them than tung oil. I've had great luck with mineral (baby) oil on other unfinished items.
Very cool! Looks great, and I'm sure it sounds at least that good.
This has got me Jonesin' to get mine going.
I gave my Patriot a thorough go through and I will keep it for sure, and mod away... It has the chainsaw case that was super clean, just missing the inner foam/cloth, which is an easy fix. It also has a touch of ski jump, which will be fine with a little upper fret sanding. Two of the tuners were missing the big, flat head screw that holds the gear and post to the assembly. Can't tell if they broke off inside the post, as there is a little glue like residue obscuring things. They work fine and didn't fall apart when I pulled the strings off, so no harm, no foul. Found the appropriate (and discontinued) EB4 Hipshot drop tuner for it and ordered that up to replace one tuner, and I may get an orphan tuner at some point to replace the other. Missing the truss rod cover, but may be able to make one with the pickguard material I will be removing for the neck pickup.
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I have a 1987 Patriot that I cleaned up/refurbished early last year after 30 years ownership. I sanded some of the body in the process and am confident that there was some finish from the factory. Sanded mahogany is very light colored and powdery and my bass definitely wasn't that. However, it was not a hard finish either so I suspect some kind of polymerized oil. I ended up refinishing with teak oil because I had it on hand but anything could be used.
Keep in mind that most raw oil (ex: mineral) will never harden and thus always transfer oiliness to anything it comes in contact with. Tung oil doesn't seem like a poor choice as it cures quickly.
Final result:
Almost 2 years later still feels and looks great.
Keep in mind that most raw oil (ex: mineral) will never harden and thus always transfer oiliness to anything it comes in contact with. Tung oil doesn't seem like a poor choice as it cures quickly.
Final result:
Almost 2 years later still feels and looks great.
thanks ... learned something new...
I was going to try mineral oil (on my next one)
Just learned something new.
I was going to try mineral oil (on my next one)
Just learned something new.
Tru oil is the way to go! It actually hardens up nicely into a moisture barrier, and can get quite shiny if you want.
I think I prefer tung for necks though. I need to sand and apply tung and tru to more necks since I’m not 100% sure which have which any more. I have way too many basses!
I think I prefer tung for necks though. I need to sand and apply tung and tru to more necks since I’m not 100% sure which have which any more. I have way too many basses!
Sweet -- I need an ol #7 for my mega church job!!!!
JACK DANIELS BASS
This may be the only model I've not owned. It looks to be a GBass body... Any clues on the ncek? That Reverb one looks abused. Someone PMd me looking for one... Can't remember who it was.
TRU OIL
Any chance we can go into this a bit more - I've made mistakes... I do get PMs about what to do with a Cirrus or mahogany 80s bass.
I've tried Tung oil - total mistake (though to get even near the pick up rings, pick guards etc.
Some have said that mineral oil isn't good... some have noted that lemon oil is a game.
What is Tru Oil (gunstock oil?) -- would you put it on a rosewood fingerboard? (off topic -- could I put it on a butcher block kitchen table?)
Tru Oil is a finish that goes into the wood. I would not use it on a rosewood fingerboard. I use lemon oil on rosewood fingerboards.
Tru Oil is a gunstock oil. Lots of great videos out there on the process. This one is nice:
I wouldn't use it on the fingerboard, though. My go-to is purified linseed oil.
Tru Oil is my choice...ive used Tung Oil on RW boards but never Tru Oil....no issues btw using a coat of Tung Oil on some 80's RW boards either.
Normally i use mineral oil on RW boards nowdays...again no issues....i must say i have a cheapo RW board guitar with a dry light colored RW board...i think i am going back to a coat of Tung Oil on this particular RW board as it permanently darkends the RW and makes it smoother.
Ive been VERY tempted to do the same on my MIM Fender P bass RW board as well!
Lemon Oil products are 99 percent mineral oil. Mineral oil will not dry and comes back out on your hands. The refined linseed oil is a drying oil..meaning it goes in and dries so it stays on/in the rosewood for a long time and does the intended job.
Pretty much the same with Tung Oil on a RW board....i have used refined Linseed oil in the past on RW boards but i honestly dont remember which guitar!
