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U.S. Peavey Club

Hey Peavey Guys,

I just re-acquired a T-20, the bass I cut my teeth on as a youth before I pawned it for my GK amp. It seems less hefty than I remember. Do you know if they ever changed the body on them in their production run? Maybe it's more due to the fact I've put on about 75 lbs. since I had one. Any thoughts on the T-20? I'm looking forward to reacquainting myself.
 
Ok, if everything is fine, I should score a 92 Fury for $70. The photo I got shows it's in pretty good condition. Now, the Fury of that time did not have the triangular string retainer on the headstock, but shoudl still have the P-style pups, am I right?

String retainer is not realy a good indication.. these were mass produced.. it's possible they'd use stuff around the shop.. .. from this era was more likely to be the little dowel retainer

Bigger age determination is the headstock itself.. country of origin name wording is also a clue.

$70 is a sweet deal.. count on the neck being dorked and intonation being off.

IF it's black/maple -- super easy to touch up with a Sharpie.

T.
 
Hey Peavey Guys,

I just re-acquired a T-20, the bass I cut my teeth on as a youth before I pawned it for my GK amp. It seems less hefty than I remember. Do you know if they ever changed the body on them in their production run? Maybe it's more due to the fact I've put on about 75 lbs. since I had one. Any thoughts on the T-20? I'm looking forward to reacquainting myself.


T-20.. I'll get flamed for this.. I find them to be crisper and easier to play than a T40/45 (please be gentle on me)

Overall.. T20s did seem to have slightly different neck profiles.. bodies did seem to slightly alter over the production run --- toward the end they seemed to have slight modifications that made them more contoured.

The T20 is what morphed into the Patriot and Fury (pbass copy)..

As a collectability stanpoint, it's a worthy buy --- first bass to have Ferrites.. Fender guys snap these up (in excellent condition) knowing Chip Todd was on the engineering team.

Tim
 
String retainer is not realy a good indication.. these were mass produced.. it's possible they'd use stuff around the shop.. .. from this era was more likely to be the little dowel retainer

Bigger age determination is the headstock itself.. country of origin name wording is also a clue.

$70 is a sweet deal.. count on the neck being dorked and intonation being off.

IF it's black/maple -- super easy to touch up with a Sharpie.

T.

What do you mean by "dork"?
 
What do you mean by "dork"?


Typically the 90's Peaveys got even less positive attention then the 80's Peaveys did. As a result the sale prices were extremely low and resale were even lower. Young players who couldn't afford a Fender bought these and frequently tried to do their own repairs with little knowledge of what they were doing. They frequently "dorked around" with the truss rods and put them way out of adjustment. The good knews is that the early nineties necks were still bilaminate and quite stout. It should not be a big deal to bring them back to spec.

The nineties Furies definitely have the P-style pickups. Only the T-20's and early Furies had the slanted superferrite. By the mid to late eighties all Furies had P-style pickups(up until they went overseas with the Fury IV, V, and VI.). You will find the 90's Peaveys a great deal smaller and lighter than the eighties Foundation you have. Personally I prefer them, but I have had knee surgery and am probably facing back surgery before too long. Enjoy your new find.
 
dorked = dorked around with.

Examples
-Trussrods setup wrong
-overtightened
-bowed
-leaned up against a wall
-stowed in a basement.
-superglued the truss rod nut
-locktite on the truss rod nut
-frets "crowned" with a rasp

I could go on for days... you get the point.

I always have a lookout for basses that someone bought.. then realized guitar is intially easier to play.

Biggest mistake on these were shipping tools with truss rod instructions in the owner's packet... wouldn't be a problem if these were more expensive instruments when they came out.. most of the store models were under $500.. they never carried the $4500 custom shops.

Many folks got frustrated with Microtilt since it doesn't make "common" sense..

Geeze.. Ive bought basses had the G tuned to B for years

Tim
 
T-20.. I'll get flamed for this.. I find them to be crisper and easier to play than a T40/45 (please be gentle on me)

Overall.. T20s did seem to have slightly different neck profiles.. bodies did seem to slightly alter over the production run --- toward the end they seemed to have slight modifications that made them more contoured.

The T20 is what morphed into the Patriot and Fury (pbass copy)..

As a collectability stanpoint, it's a worthy buy --- first bass to have Ferrites.. Fender guys snap these up (in excellent condition) knowing Chip Todd was on the engineering team.

Tim

I'd agree with you MNAH, the T-40's were tanks. Crisper is a great term to describe their sound in comparison. I'll get to monkey with it over the weekend, and get it into playing shape. Thanks for your reply.
 
So yes I scored it and the action is as expected (about a pinkie at the 12th).

What size wrench do I need for those again? I know I will have to grind if with a Dremel to make it fit.

Thanks!

It MAY be a 3/8? I remember it being SAE -- not Metric.

Start by loosening the nut totally.. lubricating it.. cleaning out any goofy locktited and super glue.. then starting over.. when snug.. do not try to straighten the neck fast --- the wood needs time to gently go back.

==============


Luthier not necessary.. we can walk you through the setup.. you bought the bass right.. IF you screwed it up totally... would still cost less than a quality tech.

Allparts sells the wrench.. PM me if you want me to pick one up.. it's about $8 or so...

IT's a different tool than a socket.. when the tool is so cheap -- it's less than prudent to waste time rebuilding tools.

T.
 
It MAY be a 3/8? I remember it being SAE -- not Metric.

Start by loosening the nut totally.. lubricating it.. cleaning out any goofy locktited and super glue.. then starting over.. when snug.. do not try to straighten the neck fast --- the wood needs time to gently go back.

==============


Luthier not necessary.. we can walk you through the setup.. you bought the bass right.. IF you screwed it up totally... would still cost less than a quality tech.

Allparts sells the wrench.. PM me if you want me to pick one up.. it's about $8 or so...

IT's a different tool than a socket.. when the tool is so cheap -- it's less than prudent to waste time rebuilding tools.

T.

OK, let me buy the tool.

I released the nut completely and there is still a small bow in the neck.

Is this bad, doctor?