Just got home from playing the BBQ cook off down at the Austin rodeo. The TL was on fire!! It practically plays itself!
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U.S. Peavey Club
- Thread starter Soundchaser11460
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I TOTALLY get the "plays itself" thing. I've said that about the Cirrus a lot , BUT - What is that Genz cab with all the small speakers ????????? !!!! I can only imagine it sounds AMAZING. WOW, I looked it up. I will Youtube it. OK, back to Peavey.
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That is their bass array cab. The upper mids and highs go through the 3” drivers. They are smoother and less harsh than a traditional tweeter....but they can still give you those glassy highs if that’s your thing. The dispersion is also incredible. You can cover a wider area of stage due to the line array setup. I’ve used it on a few gigs now and the band mates can hear the bass much better now. I’m probably running less volume too.
Got the '91 Dyna Bass 5!
The neck is grey metallic, but the body was refinished this unique emerald fade--and a really well done refin, I will add. It needed a bit of work, but that was expected and I was glad to get it up and running. The big PITA was the pots--all of them were super loose from being over torqued without washers. Fortunately, the high quality CTS pots were easily desoldered and removed from the PCB, pulled apart, cleaned up, and put back together snugly with washers. They now work perfectly.
The string spacing is tight, as most early 5 string basses are, but it does feel and sounds great, so it's a keeper. Gotta love Super Ferrites!
I most certainly have too many basses now. Hope the wife doesn't find out!
If you are keen on shielding the pickup cavities don't let me dissuade you, but doing that won't solve the hiss. Shielding can help EMI but hiss is not caused by EMI. That will be coming from the preamp itself.
I have a pearl white DynaBassFive that was one of the first built that I love, it has been my main fiver on many gigs and sessions. I really like the narrower spacing and the tone is spectacular.
So I got my 2006 Cirrus Bolt-On this week. It didn't have strings on it, so I strung it up and waited three days, doing slight adjustments once a day as it settles. Probably will need to for a few more days, but so far so good. I've owned a bolt on Cirrus before and stated I had a 34" scale neck, and some of you said that was impossible. This one is also 34" scale. Maybe they made both 34" and 35", but if memory serves me correct, I believe they were all 34" scale.
Anyway, there are a few preamp issues, like volume cutting in and out, levels dropping and rising, crackles, etc. It's starting to even itself out. Like one of you told me, active electronics don't like to sit unused for a long time. I think maybe now that it has current flowing through it and it's being used, it's getting the ghost back. I don't know.
This is the EASIEST bolt on bass I've ever played. The neck joint is so beautifully crafted. The feel is AMAZING. This bass ROCKS. I can't wait to get all the issues settled. The action is as low (MAYBE LOWER !) than a neck thru Cirrus. The strings practically sit on the fretboard, and like all USA Cirrus, the craftsmanship is top of the line and as boutique quality as anything that's boutique.
Anyway, there are a few preamp issues, like volume cutting in and out, levels dropping and rising, crackles, etc. It's starting to even itself out. Like one of you told me, active electronics don't like to sit unused for a long time. I think maybe now that it has current flowing through it and it's being used, it's getting the ghost back. I don't know.
This is the EASIEST bolt on bass I've ever played. The neck joint is so beautifully crafted. The feel is AMAZING. This bass ROCKS. I can't wait to get all the issues settled. The action is as low (MAYBE LOWER !) than a neck thru Cirrus. The strings practically sit on the fretboard, and like all USA Cirrus, the craftsmanship is top of the line and as boutique quality as anything that's boutique.
Is yours a 4 string by chance? I've owned a 5 string bolt on Cirrus some time back, and while I didn't measure it I'd swear it was 35". Seems I've heard that on one model of Peavey, the 4 string was 34" but the 5 (and 6?) string was 35". Not sure about that, but that's what I recall.
Sorry, yes I didn't clarify. It's a 4 string. You're probably correct on the 5 string being 35" scale.
songwriter21
I have an obsession for wood. The musical kind.
Not the whole story. Once the saddles are set, one time as part of a multi-step setup, the saddle height won’t need to be touched again unless string brand, wrap type, gauges, etc are changed. If you stick with the same strings, only a truss rod tweak is needed to raise or lower your string relief (or action, as some call it). The truss rod tweaks are usually needed after seasonal temp and/or humidity changes.
Agree.... mostly.
The master himself, Carl Pedigo, that helped put Lakland at the top of the bass biz, is a friend of mine. His videos show exactly how a bass should be setup.
I get knowing the basics, but the exactly correct setup is from how you want it set up. I learned those basics and ignore everything else, and without unnecessary measuring tools...all hand/eye.
Thank you, here's a copy of the post I made in the Fretless bass club.
Even though the bass is not made in the US but rather in Spain, I think you'll like it anyway. Enjoy!
The idea behing this bass started 3 years ago. At that time I already had a Peavey T-20FL but didn't have a T-40 and wanted to have a fretless bass with some of the more "weird" electronics of the T-40.
So I started to on what turned out as the Peavey Orion FL project.
Here's a short history of the project.
I started off with a body and a fretted neck. At that time I didn't have the knowledge I now have and just bought a fretless neck which later on I found out was 20 fret long while the original fretted neck was a 24 one.
I also bought a complete set of three Warman pickup's, a J-pup which went to the bridge position, a P-pup in the middle and a Jazzbar humbucker that went to the neck posisition. The electronics were the biggest problem because I needed to combine these pups into some weird standard with T-40 mixture. This took a long time to figure out and in the mean time I got more experienced in customizing and found out I had made a 32 scale bass.
I decided to move the neck upward but couldn't get to a 34" scale and had to leave it at 33" which also wasn't to my liking. This was when the body was still a sunburst one with a self-made red tort pickguard. All hardware was gold and so should be the strings.
A few month ago I finally bought a new body with a 20 fret sized fretted neck. The neck went to another bass project (all black hardware P-style bass) but the new body would do as a base for the project.
Today I finished the hand-made yellow-gold pickguard. I also updated the electronics to a different scheme and only used the Warman jazzbar together with a DiMarzio P-pup getting a far better result.
More about that later on.
Here are some photos:
Body view
Headstock view
Yes this bass is called "Peavey Orion FL", in honor of my very first Peavey 20-FL bought back in 1985 and still with me and the T-40 acquire later in the same year I started this project. The headstock is made from a half paddle headstock so I needed to cut the typical Peavey shape and do all the lining and lettering myself.
Here are the spec's:
Ash body
Maple neck with rosewood fretboard and double trussrod, J-style 38 mm at the nut, super slim and super fast, 20 frets long (the neck plays and feels as the Peavey Zodiac BXP neck but fretless).
34" scale
Gold tuners and brass nut.
Gold high mass bridge with string through the body (T-40 alike).
Warman jazzbar humbucker at the neck
DiMarzio DP127BK dual rail P-pup
Dual stacked V/T controls, Serial/Parallel switch for the Warman, Phase switch for the DiMarzio, passive electronics, all gold controls and switches.
Optima 24k gold strings gauge .060-.080-.100-.125 due to the D-standard tuning I use.
The electronics maintain the T-40 phase switch, and contain separation resistors between the individual V/T controls. Both the DiMarzio and the Warman are high output pups and give an enormous possible tonal range.
All in all it has become a very unique bass, plays super fast with low action.
Welcome Miranda !!! But PLEASE cut those stringsPlease assign me a number as a new member of this prestigious club.
I have a US T-40 and one of the rare T-20FL's (bought new back in 1985), both in excellent condition.
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Just restrung.
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@Runnerman - I'm curious if I ever got a number. I'm not sure if I ever made a formal request for one.
I have a question for those who own a USA Millennium with J/J pickups.
Were these offered in four and five-string versions, and are the pickups the same stacked humbucker that is described in the specs/brochure? If so, would you compare the sound to traditional single-coil Jazz pups?
Were these offered in four and five-string versions, and are the pickups the same stacked humbucker that is described in the specs/brochure? If so, would you compare the sound to traditional single-coil Jazz pups?
I have only seen 4 string J/J Millennium basses. I own one. The bass sounds lovely but the PUs have more of a humbucker vibe to them or at least that is how they sound to me.
Thanks Chuck! That's what I wanted to know. I'm assuming they are quiet and have a deep-water tone to them.
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