what can you guys tell me about the Korean grind with J pickups 5?
I got a cirrus pre and would install it
This the bolt on active version?
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what can you guys tell me about the Korean grind with J pickups 5?
I got a cirrus pre and would install it
yep! bolt on 5 j pickupsThis the bolt on active version?
the spacing looks like the millennium/ cirrus so I'd try to drop in a cirrus pre
are. they decent quality basses?Plenty room in the control cavity for that, CNC machines used the same program Meridian,Korea,China etc.
Pretty sure the pickups are standard so you be running the Cirrus preamp on 9v, doubt that'll be a problem.
are. they decent quality basses?
Where to put the 2nd nine volt?yep! bolt on 5 j pickups
and 3 band eq
the spacing looks like the millennium/ cirrus so I'd try to drop in a cirrus pre
I am by no means a pro at this but a couple things spring to mind right away. 14th/15th fret issue sounds like a potential ski jump. It it's just on the G, it could also be a light twist. Look down the neck and you should be able to see this. Lighter gauge strings and a careful setup can assist if it is not too bad. The second thing is the sharp frets, 25+ year old bass, likely exposed to some humidity and temp cycles over the years....it probably was not that way from the factory. If it was me I'd clean that up with some light fret end filing.I think I'm answering my own question here, but seeing how crazy I am.
Got a Gen3 (early 90s) Fury. As advertised, plays like a Jazz, sounds like a P. Pretty much new condition. The issue is, the fretwork is pretty awful. I don't know that I've ever judged/put down a bass due to fretwork, but this one is making me see why people will have that complaint. Super sharp, and feel really high in the higher registers - to the point of squashing notes around the 14th-15th fret on the G.
So - would you drop $120-130 for a fret job on a bass that usually sells around $200-300? Seeming kinda worth it to me, in that it's pretty much perfect apart from that. Just have to get over the mental hurdle of 'investing' in 'cheap' gear.
Obv, the 90s US Peaveys punched WAY above their weight class.
The 2nd 9v battery powers the active VFLs.Where to put the 2nd nine volt?
Is it a rosewood or maple fretboard?I think I'm answering my own question here, but seeing how crazy I am.
Got a Gen3 (early 90s) Fury. As advertised, plays like a Jazz, sounds like a P. Pretty much new condition. The issue is, the fretwork is pretty awful. I don't know that I've ever judged/put down a bass due to fretwork, but this one is making me see why people will have that complaint. Super sharp, and feel really high in the higher registers - to the point of squashing notes around the 14th-15th fret on the G.
So - would you drop $120-130 for a fret job on a bass that usually sells around $200-300? Seeming kinda worth it to me, in that it's pretty much perfect apart from that. Just have to get over the mental hurdle of 'investing' in 'cheap' gear.
Obv, the 90s US Peaveys punched WAY above their weight class.
Is it a rosewood or maple fretboard?
Man, I love hearing from people I haven't seen here, like you, Hosedawg. That black Sarzo is SA-WEET !!!! WHOA !!! ---- WAIT, it's a SARZO body but a TL-5 ! Never seen one before. It looks MINT, too ! Super Ferrites, Dyna preamp, that bass is a Unicorn, to me !!!!Day's like this are getting to be far and few with the weather changing here everyday,......View attachment 4020127 View attachment 4020128
Refreshing honesty from this JT-84 owner.
"
JOHN TAYLOR Liberator JT-84 Bass Guitar (2006 US limited edition 'Liberator Series' JT-84 bass guitar manufactured by Peavey, and co-designed by John Taylor and Juicy Couture. This professional, black-necked 21-fret guitar features a 34" scale with custom artwork, two humbucking pickups, and two volume/tone controls with black hardware. Housed in a green, custom-distressed, hard canvas case lined in pink faux fur, and complete with its custom WWII-issue canvas belt-style strap with relic oxide brass medallions, plus a custom amp/tuner, guitar case hanger, bullet coil cable and two plectrums -- PLUS a certificate of authenticity HAND-SIGNED and NUMBERED by John Taylor - #12 out of 100)
I have to admit it is the worst bass I have ever played, my "Vester" beginers bass was far better.
I was really looking forward to getting this bass, serious dissapoint on receiving it.
The bass itself is extremely cheap & plasticy, feels like playing a Guitar Hero controller!
It's basically THE cheapest bass that Peavey have produced that John has "designed".
By design it's paint design as there are no technical advancements here.
It's an art/collectable item only, I would never gig this bass.
It's not even listed by Peavey as an officially released item.
THOUGHT....John himself doesnt even play this bass with Duran.
I will keep it for collectors value. I have never seen any others pop up for sale since"
You’ll get better vibration transfer to the body, so you should get a bit more robust fundamental, as well as better high end. I use stainless rounds on mine, but the patriot is just better at punchy cutting tones, not so much big round lows.What difference do the brass saddles make tone-wise? I have a mahogany Patriot that sounds great but lacks a little in the fundamental department. It's strung with GHS Pressurewounds; the only change I've made is copper-shielding the cavity.
So the Millennium/Cirrus pre will operate correctly on just a single 9v as long as it's not connected to a vfl pup? Did not know that.The 2nd 9v battery powers the active VFLs.
The active BXP Grinds have passive pickups so don't need the 2nd battery.
I'm with mb94952, just address the sharp fret ends and perhaps get a dress/crown/polish on the frets. It seems nuts to spend $150ish on a $250 bass, but once the frets are nice, it will play like a $600+ bass. I have no regrets on any $$ spent on the player details like fretwork, a nice nut, etc...I think I'm answering my own question here, but seeing how crazy I am.
Got a Gen3 (early 90s) Fury. As advertised, plays like a Jazz, sounds like a P. Pretty much new condition. The issue is, the fretwork is pretty awful. I don't know that I've ever judged/put down a bass due to fretwork, but this one is making me see why people will have that complaint. Super sharp, and feel really high in the higher registers - to the point of squashing notes around the 14th-15th fret on the G.
So - would you drop $120-130 for a fret job on a bass that usually sells around $200-300? Seeming kinda worth it to me, in that it's pretty much perfect apart from that. Just have to get over the mental hurdle of 'investing' in 'cheap' gear.
Obv, the 90s US Peaveys punched WAY above their weight class.