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U.S. Peavey Club

I personally cringe every time he uses the neck tilt instead of a traditional veneer shim.
I've said it a dozen times in this thread, and I'll say it again...I do not like micro-tilt mechanisms.
At this point, my preferred method of shimming is to put the shim under the back two screws with holes punched through so the back screws go through the shim.
That's the way MusicMan does it if they have a bass that needs shimming before it leaves the factory.
MusicMan sells a shim kit for $3.99

See your point but the results are in the users hands. Clumsiness is not rewarded.
I have had zero issues using the neck tilt. YMMV i guess.
My concern with micro-tilt systems is it assumes that for decades the people using it will do it right.
So many basses don't even get truss rod adjustments and when they do, it's often with the wrong sized tool and strings under full tension.
In the case of Peavey, they built micro-tilt into T40, T20, T45, and other early 80's models (trapezoidal bridges) that all had crazy bridges/saddles that caused the need to tilt a neck.

I don't really understand overbuilt bridges anymore.
My favorite has become the Fender American Deluxe Bass Bridge.

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Refreshing honesty from this JT-84 owner.

"
JOHN TAYLOR Liberator JT-84 Bass Guitar (2006 US limited edition 'Liberator Series' JT-84 bass guitar manufactured by Peavey, and co-designed by John Taylor and Juicy Couture. This professional, black-necked 21-fret guitar features a 34" scale with custom artwork, two humbucking pickups, and two volume/tone controls with black hardware. Housed in a green, custom-distressed, hard canvas case lined in pink faux fur, and complete with its custom WWII-issue canvas belt-style strap with relic oxide brass medallions, plus a custom amp/tuner, guitar case hanger, bullet coil cable and two plectrums -- PLUS a certificate of authenticity HAND-SIGNED and NUMBERED by John Taylor - #12 out of 100)

I have to admit it is the worst bass I have ever played, my "Vester" beginers bass was far better.
I was really looking forward to getting this bass, serious dissapoint on receiving it.
The bass itself is extremely cheap & plasticy, feels like playing a Guitar Hero controller!
It's basically THE cheapest bass that Peavey have produced that John has "designed".
By design it's paint design as there are no technical advancements here.
It's an art/collectable item only, I would never gig this bass.
It's not even listed by Peavey as an officially released item.
THOUGHT....John himself doesnt even play this bass with Duran.

I will keep it for collectors value. I have never seen any others pop up for sale since"


Kinda hard to believe given all the great workhorses Peavey has put out over the years. Looks cool, the case amp is a novelty but fun. Too bad about the bad review...
 
Kinda hard to believe given all the great workhorses Peavey has put out over the years.
What's hard to believe ? It wasn't a serious instrument, more a "one off "vanity project and the bass equivalent of those terrible Franklin Mint plates. 30 cents to produce "limited edition ,your's for 3 easy payments of $29.99" :roflmao:

Folks were paying $500 for a T-shirt at the store they sold them through, $1000 must have seemed a bargain :facepalm:
 
I don't really understand overbuilt bridges anymore.
My favorite has become the Fender American Deluxe Bass Bridge.

View attachment 4021450

I feel the bridge material has way more to do with the quality than the overall mass. I can't play on those multiple string spacing types, though. I always push into the E too much and pop it over to the next slot. I did put a Badass III on my fender zone, though, and that did a LOT for that bass, so i think its a ymmv thing
 
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Crosspost from the Millennium thread:

Chuck M sent me this 5-string Milly. It arrived Friday, but I didn't get much chance to play around with it until today. It came with TI flats, which I love on passive basses, but they're not really doing it for me here. I usually use DR strings, so I ordered some Fat Beams and Lo Riders (still deciding which ones to put on the Milly). I might try the TIs on my Squier VM P5; it currently wears La Bella DTFs, but the B and E are a little too thuddy for my taste.

Anyway, a few things I've noticed:
  • The preamp on these is really good. Like, really good.
  • The fingerboard radius feels really flat. Not really good or bad, just something I noticed that stood out to me.
  • Build quality is super solid.
  • Balance is quite comfortable.
  • Sound is pretty good, but it's hard to judge before I get some rounds on it.
Thanks again, Chuck! I hope the Cirrus is working out for you!
 
Correct me if I'm wrong but doesn't the micro tilt have a metal plate to spread out the pressure? I'm not a physicist but wouldn't that relieve enough pressure from the spot of the neck lamination to mitigate any delamination? Especially considering the cleats where it meets the wood are evenly distributed over the joint.
 
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Correct me if I'm wrong but doesn't the micro tilt have a metal plate to spread out the pressure? I'm not a physicist but wouldn't that relieve enough pressure from the spot of the neck lamination to mitigate any delamination? Especially considering the cleats where it meets the wood are evenly distributed over the joint.
Yeah, there's a slug in there. I still use the tilt screw rather sparingly.
Interestingly, from what I have read, the slug hole was originally nickel sized, so they could use a nickel until the slug order arrived. Hartly P nixed that and decided that pennies were a better fiscal option. There are a few prototypes in circulation with pennies in the neck!