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Upgrading my Yamaha BB234

I decided to go ahead and dump some money into my Yamaha BB234. The bones are fantastic...alder body, maple neck, awesome dark rosewood fretboard, nut is cut great.
It actually doesn't sound too bad either, but I can't help but mod stuff so here we go!

I got some bigger satin aluminum knobs; I think they looks much better than the smaller chrome domes that were stock on it.

I wasn't sure on a bridge, so I started out cheap with a $10 "high mass," from Amazon.
It does the job, slightly more sustain and fuller sounding notes. The problem is the holes that you feed the strings through are too small. I had to put some round-wounds on it, because the silk wrap on the ball end of my Daddario Nylon Tapes wouldn't fit through :/
I have a Hipshot Kick-Ass bridge coming that I will put on instead.

I put a round chrome string tree on it, simply for aesthetics.

I am waiting on my EMG GZR PJ set to come, as well as Schaller BM tuners that I got a killer deal on!

This thing already plays great (really fantastic fretword for $300), and I can't wait for all my parts to get it so I can finish it up!

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Not just the pickups, 5pcs neck, neck joint type, body wood use are better than 200 with just little money top up.

I'm assuming you meant to use the < sign instead of the > sign when trying to say the BB234 is a lesser (<) guitar than the greater (>) BB434 and up.


I'm not arguing that the 234 is as good as the higher up models. I mean, there is a reason that they cost a little more.


However, isn't it funny how the BB234's one-piece maple neck, rosewood fretboard, and alder body are considered to be not as good as the BB434 and up...considering Fender has been making basses with that same combination for what, 70 years or so?
 
I'm a big Yamaha fan, have a BBP35 and BB435 fretless, both upgraded with Nordstrands (initially to kill the single coil noise in a bad room that I seem to play regularly). The BBP is amazing, best bass I've had. The 435 is fantastic for the money (I bought it to defret after seeing how fantastic the BBP was).
I reckon the 234 would be an awesome bass to upgrade, especially if you're happy with the neck.
Pickups make a huge difference. I can recommend the Nordys. NP4s etc for bite, Blades for balls.
You might need to change the tone pot when you change the pickups. The BBP and 435 both had linear taper tone pots, and didn't work well with the new pickups. Changing to audio taper made a huge difference.
 
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I'm a big Yamaha fan, have a BBP35 and BB435 fretless, both upgraded with Nordstrands (initially to kill the single coil noise in a bad room that I seem to play regularly). The BBP is amazing, best bass I've had. The 435 is fantastic for the money (I bought it to defret after seeing how fantastic the BBP was).
I reckon the 234 would be an awesome bass to upgrade, especially if you're happy with the neck.
Pickups make a huge difference. I can recommend the Nordys. NP4s etc for bite, Blades for balls.
You might need to change the tone pot when you change the pickups. The BBP and 435 both had linear taper tone pots, and didn't work well with the new pickups. Changing to audio taper made a huge difference.

Tried to edit but couldn't. I don't actually know if the 435 had a linear taper pot, I just changed it anyway.
 
Out of curiosity, is there a big difference in pickup quality between the 200 series to the 400 series?
I don't know about the 200 to 400, but I know about the 400 to BBP. There is a difference in the pickups, it's noticeable but it's not huge.
The pickups are not a reason to upgrade IMO. The fit and feel probably is. The feel of the 400 series vs the BBP is a completely different thing. I reckon a 200 series with upgraded pickups would probably slay basses that cost 4-5X as much, so if the feel is ok for the 200 series, it would be a keep and upgrade win.
 
I think the 400 series and up are actually marked "YGD" pickups, whereas the ones in my BB234 are just plain black covers with no markings. I'll look when I do the swap, but not sure if there will be any info on the back of them.

I am putting in the EMG GZR PJ set, so it comes with new pots and quick connect wiring too, so all the guts with be replaced.
 
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I'm a big Yamaha fan, have a BBP35 and BB435 fretless, both upgraded with Nordstrands (initially to kill the single coil noise in a bad room that I seem to play regularly). The BBP is amazing, best bass I've had. The 435 is fantastic for the money (I bought it to defret after seeing how fantastic the BBP was).
I reckon the 234 would be an awesome bass to upgrade, especially if you're happy with the neck.
Pickups make a huge difference. I can recommend the Nordys. NP4s etc for bite, Blades for balls.
You might need to change the tone pot when you change the pickups. The BBP and 435 both had linear taper tone pots, and didn't work well with the new pickups. Changing to audio taper made a huge difference.

The tone pot in my BBP34 didn't work well either and I use the stock pickups. It behaved more like an on/off switch with nothing happening until it was 99% down. I replaced it with a A250K CTS which solved this problem. The rest of the bass is pure perfection so I find this choice of tone pot very strange.
 
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Out of curiosity, is there a big difference in pickup quality between the 200 series to the 400 series?

The 200 series have ceramics pickups. The other BBs have alnico pickups.

The 700 series and the MIJ "Pro" series have the same pickups. The 400 series have a different pickup but still alnico.

I've never played a 200 series so I can't really comment on the difference but the 400/700/Pro series all have a somewhat "modern" take on the P-bass tone. The mids seem to have more focus in the upper midrange than the lower midrange compared to a classic, vintage P-bass. Slightly brigher highs and deeper yet tighter lows. Not overly bright though (they are nowhere near Sandberg-bright!). I love BBs but they're not the best choice for a fat, "bouncy" Motown vibe. Passive Fenders are better for THAT tone.

Generally ceramic pickups tend to be a bit "harder" sounding than alnicos, less perceived warmth, but there are exceptions and I have no idea if this is the case with the BB200s.
 
both upgraded with Nordstrands (initially to kill the single coil noise in a bad room that I seem to play regularly).
both upgraded with Nordstrands (initially to kill the single coil noise in a bad room that I seem to play regularly).

I don’t mean to hijack OP’s thread, but that’s something I hadn’t thought much about. I play humbuckers and I’m not used to the single coil hum. Since the P is a split single coil, did you just replace the J?

I’m tempting myself with a BB434 instead of modding my RBX765A, but I’m worried I’m tricking myself into believing the sound quality is going to be what I expect.
 
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I don’t mean to hijack OP’s thread, but that’s something I hadn’t thought much about. I play humbuckers and I’m not used to the single coil hum. Since the P is a split single coil, did you just replace the J?

I’m tempting myself with a BB434 instead of modding my RBX765A, but I’m worried I’m tricking myself into believing the sound quality is going to be what I expect.

I did just replace the J at first, then almost immediately ordered the P because the J sounded sooo good.
I've never really tried the RBX, but the 765 is active ? A BB434 and will definitely sound different. If you like boosting the lows or the highs on the RBX, and go for a scooped hifi sound, then the BB sound quality will not necessarily be an 'improvement'
 
I did just replace the J at first, then almost immediately ordered the P because the J sounded sooo good.
I've never really tried the RBX, but the 765 is active ? A BB434 and will definitely sound different. If you like boosting the lows or the highs on the RBX, and go for a scooped hifi sound, then the BB sound quality will not necessarily be an 'improvement'
It’s active, but I don’t boost or cut anything- I just select between the pick ups. To be honest, all of my basses are active but I don’t really explicitly use the capability. My Carvin Icon is always in passive mode. I’m looking to either remove the active electronics from the RBX or invest in a BB.
 
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Ah, I'm the same with my active basses, pretty much always run bypassed.
Probably better to get a BB434 than mess with the rbx. BB434s are very reasonably priced, and I don't know what you'd get if you sold the rbx, but unmodded would be a lot more than modded lol.
 
I'm assuming you meant to use the < sign instead of the > sign when trying to say the BB234 is a lesser (<) guitar than the greater (>) BB434 and up.


I'm not arguing that the 234 is as good as the higher up models. I mean, there is a reason that they cost a little more.


However, isn't it funny how the BB234's one-piece maple neck, rosewood fretboard, and alder body are considered to be not as good as the BB434 and up...considering Fender has been making basses with that same combination for what, 70 years or so?

Open mind dude, you just limited knowledge yourself.

If one piece neck are great choice, why Yamaha make those 400,700 and P34 series with laminated 5pcs neck ? Check the 1979 BB1200 neck.

Fender ? Beside selected wood on Custom shop, the Am pro has graphic reinforced rod inside, why?

But...... If you got luck, some one piece neck are rock solid.

Roasted maple neck on my cheapo Bacchus bass far solid than few Fender bass I been own. Better than my Vintera P neck.
 
If one piece neck are great choice, why Yamaha make those 400,700 and P34 series with laminated 5pcs neck ? Check the 1979 BB1200 neck.

I mean… electro acoustic instrument makers make claims a lot that I’m unconvinced are anything more than marketing. As a guy with two solid necks and one laminated neck, I can’t tell you and practical difference.

I also balk at the “tone wood” salesmanship of the maple laminated body, or the benefit of through neck vs bolt on. I 100% don’t believe that the extra two bolts in the 6 bolt neck joint matter a hill of beans.

now the pick ups? I believe those impact the sound 95%.

I believe OP could put together a decent bass with the 200 series and new pickups.