V8 project

[JIO]

There is this one but priced at a premium.

Schaller Bass Bridge 3D-8 8-string - Vintage Copper | Reverb

As far as the one I thought I bought - I'm afraid I've been scammed. I'm dealing with PayPal for a refund ~

 

[JIO]

Ready to rout the neck bucker cavity. .

Once done - Forstner bits were incorporated to 'chamber' (fancy name for removing wood/lightening) down to 1/4". Next is routing under the E-side elbow pg unit/island and under the bridge footprint to lower the bridge for better adjustment of set-neck action/string-height. Also routed the bridge pu cavity - less is more!

Holes? What holes?...

 

[Bruce Johnson]

Once done - Forstner bits were incorporated to 'chamber' (fancy name for removing wood/lightening) down to 1/4".

We should call that Swiss Chambering, like the cheese.

 

[JIO]

We should call that Swiss Chambering, like the cheese.

 

[JIO]

Chambering/lightening done! Went down 1/8" for the bridge rout - should be just enough. Time to start getting it back together.

 

[Bill Whitehurst]

If you move the rear strap button up the side of the body 3 or 4 inches it will do a lot to balance out some of the neck dive.
Takes about 5 minutes to get used to that.

 

[Max Bogosity]

I’m curious, why the ‘Swiss chambering’ around the neck pickup, but a larger single cavity beside the bridge on the bass side?

 

[JIO]

I’m curious, why the ‘Swiss chambering’ around the neck pickup, but a larger single cavity beside the bridge on the bass side?

Just somewhere where I could remove the most wood w/o compromising structural integrity. As I mentioned earlier - a 'honey-comb' removal of wood is more structurally stable than a 'swimming-pool' rout, so around the neck - it doesn't compromise the necks' structural integrity. The other side (same pg island shape) is over the control cavity, so no need to remove wood there.

 

[JIO]

If you move the rear strap button up the side of the body 3 or 4 inches it will do a lot to balance out some of the neck dive.
Takes about 5 minutes to get used to that.

I'm waiting to see what my extension achieves - no need to drill another hole if it's not needed. On one of my custom bass bodies - yes, the lower strap-peg location is always located off-center to help balance.

 

[JIO]

Weighed in at 9lbs/1oz ... so I lost 11 ounces. 9lbs is better than almost 10 and it balances well. Needs some fussing/fine-tuning but it works. And addressing inquiry about the pointy pg islands having a negative impact while playing... no issuess all, at least for the way I play.

full shielding, star grounding and CTS 500k pots/.047cap

 

[God's Favorite Bass]

View attachment 4815302 View attachment 4815304 View attachment 4815305
Weighed in at 9lbs/1oz ... so I lost 11 ounces. 9lbs is better than almost 10 and it balances well. Needs some fussing/fine-tuning but it works.
View attachment 4815307
full shielding, star grounding and CTS 500k pots/.047cap
View attachment 4815338

Looks like whole bunch of fun!

 

[Engle]

View attachment 4815302 View attachment 4815304 View attachment 4815305
Weighed in at 9lbs/1oz ... so I lost 11 ounces. 9lbs is better than almost 10 and it balances well. Needs some fussing/fine-tuning but it works.
View attachment 4815307
full shielding, star grounding and CTS 500k pots/.047cap
View attachment 4815338

Nice! That’s a pretty good weight reduction.

 

[BAG]

no need to drill another hole if it's not needed

Says the man that just finished drilling a hundred holes in the bass.....

 

[PhR75]

Looks great! Please post a soundclip when you can.

 

[JIO]

Nice! That’s a pretty good weight reduction.

Yah - if it could have just been an ounce less...

Says the man that just finished drilling a hundred holes in the bass.....

Have I missed something?

Looks great! Please post a soundclip when you can.

Thanks More dialing to do and I have a big show Saturday night so it may take a while... but I'll try.


I'm thinking about spraying a white border/outline on the bucker to align with the pg gestalt. It sorta disappears now, which is cool/stealthy, but the white outline (just the pu, no accentuating the flanges) would be pop-art.

 

[JIO]

Replaced the black plastic nut with an aluminum nut -

Also realized I need to shift the B pu toward the G-string. (weak output response from the G-string) ATC, I may replace it with a soap-bar pu - it doesn't sound that good anyway. Also need to file the saddle grooves a bit deeper - they were cast w/grooves and are too shallow.

Also thought I had routed deep enough for lowering the bridge - need to go 3/16" deeper which should get the action dialed.

 

[RichterScale]

That turned out frikkin killer!
Could you chamfer the PG around the pup cutout, like on the outside edges? Or would that be too tricky around the little screw mount cutouts?

 

[Beej]

That turned out frikkin killer!
Could you chamfer the PG around the pup cutout, like on the outside edges? Or would that be too tricky around the little screw mount cutouts?

Good idea...

Or building on that, maybe a smaller pickguard/pickup surround around the black pickup. It would show as a white line on the black pickguard and the shape could be made into something complementary.

 

[JIO]

That turned out frikkin killer!
Could you chamfer the PG around the pup cutout, like on the outside edges? Or would that be too tricky around the little screw mount cutouts?

Thanks! Yah, because of the flanges - that would look too busy. I think the white trim/border on the pu will be what delivers it.

 

[Bruce Johnson]

Thanks! Yah, because of the flanges - that would look too busy. I think the white trim/border on the pu will be what delivers it.

Looks very cool, JIO! I love those crazy pickguards. And the blue color.

My only criticism is the aluminum strap button plate. Good engineering, but it needs some curves in its shape. It looks out of place sticking out with the straight edges.