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Vintera ii 60s precision with la bella flats

I bought a new vintera ii 60s precision three months ago and strung it with fender 9050ml flats(50 -100).I had to adjust the truss rod quite a lot as it arrived with a neck shaped like an English longbow.its shifted very slightly since,but I'm assuming that's because it's new and needs to settle and changes in temperature.
I'd really like to install the la bella 760m as I love the duck dunn jamerson sound,but I'm worried about my neck warping.i don't know how well made the vintera necks are and whether they'd hold up to the extra tension. Does anyone know how much more tension they have compared to my fenders?I don't mind the stiffer feel,and I like the idea of being able to get the action nice and low.i know the next gauge down are la bella 760fs,but again,how do these compare to the fenders?am I worrying unduly about the neck?I'm not sure how much play there is in the truss rod if the neck were to bow markedly.
sorry for waffling,but any thoughts would be appreciated
 
Since we don't have any published tension figures for either the Fender 9050ML or the LaBella 0760M, we can only guesstimate.

My guess would be the LaBella 760FS (45-105) and the Fender 9050ML (50-100) are close in overall tension (as in the actual pulling weight), although the 760FS would be the stiffer of the two.

Keep in mind there is another set between the 760FS (45-105) and the 0760M (52-110), namely the 760FM (49-109).
 
I bought a new vintera ii 60s precision three months ago and strung it with fender 9050ml flats(50 -100).I had to adjust the truss rod quite a lot as it arrived with a neck shaped like an English longbow.its shifted very slightly since,but I'm assuming that's because it's new and needs to settle and changes in temperature.
I'd really like to install the la bella 760m as I love the duck dunn jamerson sound,but I'm worried about my neck warping.i don't know how well made the vintera necks are and whether they'd hold up to the extra tension. Does anyone know how much more tension they have compared to my fenders?I don't mind the stiffer feel,and I like the idea of being able to get the action nice and low.i know the next gauge down are la bella 760fs,but again,how do these compare to the fenders?am I worrying unduly about the neck?I'm not sure how much play there is in the truss rod if the neck were to bow markedly.
sorry for waffling,but any thoughts would be appreciated
The tensions for the 9050L 50-100 aren't published as Michael_T indicates.
Be that as it may, you do read that GHS Precision Flats are close to the Fenders in feel. The PF's are not much different in tension to XL Chromes ( take the 085 A string for example. PF = 51.20 vs XL Chrome = 51.70)
So Chromes can be a useful guide to the likely tensions of the Fender 9050L
Thus

XL Chromes

Gauges 50 65 85 100

E1/.100/40.30lbf
A1/.085/51.70lbf
D2/.065/53.90lbf
G2/.050/58.10lbf

TT = 204lbf

Now I've used XL Chromes 50 75 95 110 on the same bass that I have had the La Bella 0760M 52 73 95 110 on. The La Bellas are less flexible ie stiffer due to the big core, but tension wise I didn't have to touch the truss rod after putting the Jamersons on after the Chromes. So that tells me the tension is pretty much the same( I did sacrifice the la bella 110 at one point to establish the unit weight, but my scale device was not that accurate, so the number wasn't so reliable. Should have kept the 110 to weigh on more accurate digital scales)
Anyhow, here are the XL Chromes tensions for

XL Chromes

Gauges 50 75 95 110

E1/.110/43.10lbf
A1/.095/64.50lbf
D2/.075/71.80lbf
G2/.050/58.10lbf

TT = 237.50lbf

So the difference between the 50 65 85 100 Chromes and the 50 75 95 110 Chromes is 33.50lbf. So with the 0760M you'll obviously need a rod tightening from where it sits now. But if you don’t wanna tighten the rod, you could down tune to DGCF Pino style
 
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The tensions for the 9050L 50-100 aren't published. They may have been in the past ( paging Michael_T, HaphasSard he he)
If you want to page someone, you need to tag the user name, like this... @michael_t, which in turn sends an alert to the user. Or, @HaphAsSard ...

And no, Fender has never published tension figures. By the way, it's the 9050ML (medium-light) the OP is talking about.
 
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If you want to page someone, you need to tag the user name, like this... @michael_t, which in turn sends an alert to the user. Or, @HaphAsSard ...

And no, Fender has never published tension figures. By the way, it's the 9050ML (medium-light) the OP is talking about.
Ah yes ML not L. Oops.
. I noticed after posting my original post that you had already mentioned about tension data not available, so I edited my post to remove the 'paging…..' but you too quick he he

@OP if you are not averse to downtuning, you could tune the Jamersons down to DGCF Pino style. The comparable Chrome tensions would be

XL Chromes

D1/.110/34.20lbf
G1/.095/51.19lbf
C2/.075/56.98lbf
F2/.050/46.11lbf

TT = 188.48lbf

So you’d actually be putting less pull on the neck in DGCF with the 0760M’s than currently with the Fender 9050ML’s
 
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Fender 9050ML = 50-65-85-100. Do you have the tension numbers for the Chromes for those gauges?
I posted them in post #3

XL Chromes

Gauges 50 65 85 100

E1/.100/40.30lbf
A1/.085/51.70lbf
D2/.065/53.90lbf
G2/.050/58.10lbf

58.10lbf

TT = 204lbf

Regarding a direct tension comparison between GHS precision flats and Fender flats gauges 50 65 85 100 It isn't possible because although GHS offers a 100 single and not part of a set, but doesn't have tension data for it in the guide. Which is odd. And there is no 50 single or in a set at all. Hence my using Chromes to compare for a ballpark figure
 
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The Chromes are the closest sibling to the Fender 9050, so yes, they should be fairly close, although I don't expect them to be identical.
Def ballpark though I guess.


I mentioned having obtained the Unit weight of a 110 Jamerson earlier on. The unit weight was .001889. Which if you check to the closest Chrome unit weight is .001890 for the Chrome .100 gauge. But it is definetly more tense than a Chrome 100 which I’ve used before. So as mentioned, my scales were a bit iffy.
See my post #71 Here
 
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In general, there's nothing wrong with Fender necks, so there should be no issue with these strings. Your neck specifically, maybe an outlier that cannot handle the tension. A three month old neck is definitely still in warranty (2 year, I believe), and if it's gonna fail, better to fail now rather than 2 years and a week old. 😭

Put 'em on and enjoy. In the unlikely event the neck has issues, find out now.
 
I had to adjust the truss rod quite a lot as it arrived with a neck shaped like an English longbow.

How much did you have to adjust it? Half a turn would be "a lot" on a normal, fully functioning instrument, unless the truss rod wasn't tightened AT ALL at the factory. That would actually be cause for concern in itself, as the bass should never have left the factory like that.

Any in any case, if the neck had shifted THAT much after it left the factory... That's not a good sign.

If you had to tighten the truss rod close to a full turn or more when it arrived I would start to get worried. That shouldn't be necessary on a fully functioning neck/truss rod, and would be a sign of an unstable neck or a faulty truss rod. I mean, we're not talking about an entry level Ibanez SR with an ultra-slim neck here. Slim necks on cheap basses can bend like bananas and may need the truss rod to be tightened quite a bit with high tension string. But on a Vintera P-bass? Those wider, chunker "vintage style" P-bass necks should be able to handle high tension strings without going nuts with the truss rod.

Even with the truss rod loosened all the way (which shouldn't have been the case on a brand new bass) the neck shouldn't be "shaped like an English longbow" with these wide/chunky Vintera necks. At least not with the factory installed 45-105 roundwounds.

Having to tighten the truss rod a bit when going from the stock roundwounds to Fender 9050ml flats is perfectly normal, but it shouldn't need much more than around a quarter turn (provided that the neck relief had already been adjusted correctly with the stock roundwounds of course). If we're talking about more than half a turn when going from the stock rounds to the Fender flats I would start to get worried.

The wide/chunky necks on these basses SHOULD be able to handle high tension flats just fine (in theory...). In fact, if any currently made Fender bass should be able to handle high tension flats it's the Vintera P-basses (and the AVRI IIs, which also have the wider vintage-style P-bass necks). But a bad neck is a bad neck, no matter how chunky/wide it is. All pieces of wood are different.


its shifted very slightly since,but I'm assuming that's because it's new and needs to settle and changes in temperature.

How much is "very slightly"? With changes in temperature/humidity throughout the year it would be normal to have to adjust the truss rod maybe once or twice every year for a perfect setup. Cheap necks made from poor quality wood typically need more/bigger adjustments than high quality necks. It shouldn't need more than a quarter turn though. Anything more than that for a seasonal adjustment would be the sign of an unstable neck.

The fact that the bass is new shouldn't matter. Any smaller adjustments to to the truss rod should stabilize within couple of minutes. Sometimes, if you need to adjust the truss rod a lot (half a turn or more) the neck might need a couple of hours to settle. But not three months.

I'd really like to install the la bella 760m as I love the duck dunn jamerson sound,but I'm worried about my neck warping.i don't know how well made the vintera necks are and whether they'd hold up to the extra tension.

The wider, chunkier necks on Vintera P-basses SHOULD be able to handle these strings. But all pieces of wood are different. If your neck has stability issues, it might not be a good idea. But if the neck is really that bad it should be returned. Whether this is actually the case is impossible for me to say without inspecting the bass myself.

Does anyone know how much more tension they have compared to my fenders?I don't mind the stiffer feel,and I like the idea of being able to get the action nice and low.i know the next gauge down are la bella 760fs,but again,how do these compare to the fenders?am I worrying unduly about the neck?I'm not sure how much play there is in the truss rod if the neck were to bow markedly.
sorry for waffling,but any thoughts would be appreciated

The 760M will obviously have more tension than the Fenders, but how much is pure guesswork.

You could try the following:

Loosen the string tension, and loosen the neck to get proper access to the truss rod.

At this stage (without the tension of the Fender flats) the neck will probably have a bit of backbow.

Try tightening the truss rod a bit further (which will bring the neck into a further backbow, but as long as you don't let the neck sit this way for long time it won't cause any damage). If you can still tighten the truss rod AT LEAST a quarter turn you will PROBABLY be fine with the 760m. If you can tighten it even further, you will almost certainly be fine (but don't go much further than a quarter turn when doing this test, and stop IMMEDIATELY if the truss rod gets much harder to tighten).

If you can't tighten the truss rod AT LEAST a quarter turn further (from the point where you have correct neck relief with the Fender flats) I would say the neck is probably faulty, and you should return it. Whether Fender will agree with this assessment is a different matter of course... And I have to stress that I can't say anything for certain without actually inspecting the bass myself.

Make sure to loosen the truss rod back to where you started before you re-install the neck and the Fender flats.

Of course, even if you CAN tighten the truss rod further, there's no way of knowing how this neck will actually behave with the LaBella 760m, or how this specific neck will handle the tension over time. Those are rather extreme strings. Are you sure you will even like them? I'm guessing most bass players probably won't, and a more "normal" set of LaBella flats (like the 760FL) will get you pretty close. At least tonally (and they will also intonate better). The "feel" will of course be a bit different.

We can discuss tension charts all day long, but the only thing that matters is how the neck/truss rod actually works in real life. Based on your description I have to admit I get a slightly bad feeling about that neck. But like I said before, it's impossible to know anything for certain without actually inspecting the bass.
 
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How much did you have to adjust it? Half a turn would be "a lot" on a normal, fully functioning instrument, unless the truss rod wasn't tightened AT ALL at the factory. That would actually be cause for concern in itself, as the bass should never have left the factory like that.

Any in any case, if the neck had shifted THAT much after it left the factory... That's not a good sign.

If you had to tighten the truss rod close to a full turn or more when it arrived I would start to get worried. That shouldn't be necessary on a fully functioning neck/truss rod, and would be a sign of an unstable neck or a faulty truss rod. I mean, we're not talking about an entry level Ibanez SR with an ultra-slim neck here. Slim necks on cheap basses can bend like bananas and may need the truss rod to be tightened quite a bit with high tension string. But on a Vintera P-bass? Those wider, chunker "vintage style" P-bass necks should be able to handle high tension strings without going nuts with the truss rod.

Even with the truss rod loosened all the way (which shouldn't have been the case on a brand new bass) the neck shouldn't be "shaped like an English longbow" with these wide/chunky Vintera necks. At least not with the factory installed 45-105 roundwounds.

Having to tighten the truss rod a bit when going from the stock roundwounds to Fender 9050ml flats is perfectly normal, but it shouldn't need much more than around a quarter turn (provided that the neck relief had already been adjusted correctly with the stock roundwounds of course). If we're talking about more than half a turn when going from the stock rounds to the Fender flats I would start to get worried.

The wide/chunky necks on these basses SHOULD be able to handle high tension flats just fine (in theory...). In fact, if any currently made Fender bass should be able to handle high tension flats it's the Vintera P-basses (and the AVRI IIs, which also have the wider vintage-style P-bass necks). But a bad neck is a bad neck, no matter how chunky/wide it is. All pieces of wood are different.




How much is "very slightly"? With changes in temperature/humidity throughout the year it would be normal to have to adjust the truss rod maybe once or twice every year for a perfect setup. Cheap necks made from poor quality wood typically need more/bigger adjustments than high quality necks. It shouldn't need more than a quarter turn though. Anything more than that for a seasonal adjustment would be the sign of an unstable neck.

The fact that the bass is new shouldn't matter. Any smaller adjustments to to the truss rod should stabilize within couple of minutes. Sometimes, if you need to adjust the truss rod a lot (half a turn or more) the neck might need a couple of hours to settle. But not three months.



The wider, chunkier necks on Vintera P-basses SHOULD be able to handle these strings. But all pieces of wood are different. If your neck has stability issues, it might not be a good idea. But if the neck is really that bad it should be returned. Whether this is actually the case is impossible for me to say without inspecting the bass myself.



The 760M will obviously have more tension than the Fenders, but how much is pure guesswork.

You could try the following:

Loosen the string tension, and loosen the neck to get proper access to the truss rod.

At this stage (without the tension of the Fender flats) the neck will probably have a bit of backbow.

Try tightening the truss rod a bit further (which will bring the neck into a further backbow, but as long as you don't let the neck sit this way for long time it won't cause any damage). If you can still tighten the truss rod AT LEAST a quarter turn you will PROBABLY be fine with the 760m. If you can tighten it even further, you will almost certainly be fine (but don't go much further than a quarter turn when doing this test, and stop IMMEDIATELY if the truss rod gets much harder to tighten).

If you can't tighten the truss rod AT LEAST a quarter turn further (from the point where you have correct neck relief with the Fender flats) I would say the neck is probably faulty, and you should return it. Whether Fender will agree with this assessment is a different matter of course... And I have to stress that I can't say anything for certain without actually inspecting the bass myself.

Make sure to loosen the truss rod back to where you started before you re-install the neck and the Fender flats.

Of course, even if you CAN tighten the truss rod further, there's no way of knowing how this neck will actually behave with the LaBella 760m, or how this specific neck will handle the tension over time. Those are rather extreme strings. Are you sure you will even like them? I'm guessing most bass players probably won't, and a more "normal" set of LaBella flats (like the 760FL) will get you pretty close. At least tonally (and they will also intonate better). The "feel" will of course be a bit different.

We can discuss tension charts all day long, but the only thing that matters is how the neck/truss rod actually works in real life. Based on your description I have to admit I get a slightly bad feeling about that neck. But like I said before, it's impossible to know anything for certain without actually inspecting the bass.

How much did you have to adjust it? Half a turn would be "a lot" on a normal, fully functioning instrument, unless the truss rod wasn't tightened AT ALL at the factory. That would actually be cause for concern in itself, as the bass should never have left the factory like that.

Any in any case, if the neck had shifted THAT much after it left the factory... That's not a good sign.

If you had to tighten the truss rod close to a full turn or more when it arrived I would start to get worried. That shouldn't be necessary on a fully functioning neck/truss rod, and would be a sign of an unstable neck or a faulty truss rod. I mean, we're not talking about an entry level Ibanez SR with an ultra-slim neck here. Slim necks on cheap basses can bend like bananas and may need the truss rod to be tightened quite a bit with high tension string. But on a Vintera P-bass? Those wider, chunker "vintage style" P-bass necks should be able to handle high tension strings without going nuts with the truss rod.

Even with the truss rod loosened all the way (which shouldn't have been the case on a brand new bass) the neck shouldn't be "shaped like an English longbow" with these wide/chunky Vintera necks. At least not with the factory installed 45-105 roundwounds.

Having to tighten the truss rod a bit when going from the stock roundwounds to Fender 9050ml flats is perfectly normal, but it shouldn't need much more than around a quarter turn (provided that the neck relief had already been adjusted correctly with the stock roundwounds of course). If we're talking about more than half a turn when going from the stock rounds to the Fender flats I would start to get worried.

The wide/chunky necks on these basses SHOULD be able to handle high tension flats just fine (in theory...). In fact, if any currently made Fender bass should be able to handle high tension flats it's the Vintera P-basses (and the AVRI IIs, which also have the wider vintage-style P-bass necks). But a bad neck is a bad neck, no matter how chunky/wide it is. All pieces of wood are different.




How much is "very slightly"? With changes in temperature/humidity throughout the year it would be normal to have to adjust the truss rod maybe once or twice every year for a perfect setup. Cheap necks made from poor quality wood typically need more/bigger adjustments than high quality necks. It shouldn't need more than a quarter turn though. Anything more than that for a seasonal adjustment would be the sign of an unstable neck.

The fact that the bass is new shouldn't matter. Any smaller adjustments to to the truss rod should stabilize within couple of minutes. Sometimes, if you need to adjust the truss rod a lot (half a turn or more) the neck might need a couple of hours to settle. But not three months.



The wider, chunkier necks on Vintera P-basses SHOULD be able to handle these strings. But all pieces of wood are different. If your neck has stability issues, it might not be a good idea. But if the neck is really that bad it should be returned. Whether this is actually the case is impossible for me to say without inspecting the bass myself.



The 760M will obviously have more tension than the Fenders, but how much is pure guesswork.

You could try the following:

Loosen the string tension, and loosen the neck to get proper access to the truss rod.

At this stage (without the tension of the Fender flats) the neck will probably have a bit of backbow.

Try tightening the truss rod a bit further (which will bring the neck into a further backbow, but as long as you don't let the neck sit this way for long time it won't cause any damage). If you can still tighten the truss rod AT LEAST a quarter turn you will PROBABLY be fine with the 760m. If you can tighten it even further, you will almost certainly be fine (but don't go much further than a quarter turn when doing this test, and stop IMMEDIATELY if the truss rod gets much harder to tighten).

If you can't tighten the truss rod AT LEAST a quarter turn further (from the point where you have correct neck relief with the Fender flats) I would say the neck is probably faulty, and you should return it. Whether Fender will agree with this assessment is a different matter of course... And I have to stress that I can't say anything for certain without actually inspecting the bass myself.

Make sure to loosen the truss rod back to where you started before you re-install the neck and the Fender flats.

Of course, even if you CAN tighten the truss rod further, there's no way of knowing how this neck will actually behave with the LaBella 760m, or how this specific neck will handle the tension over time. Those are rather extreme strings. Are you sure you will even like them? I'm guessing most bass players probably won't, and a more "normal" set of LaBella flats (like the 760FL) will get you pretty close. At least tonally (and they will also intonate better). The "feel" will of course be a bit different.

We can discuss tension charts all day long, but the only thing that matters is how the neck/truss rod actually works in real life. Based on your description I have to admit I get a slightly bad feeling about that neck. But like I said before, it's impossible to know anything for certain without actually inspecting the bass.
Hi sf
My English longbow comment was a rather typical for me exaggeration. I normally set my truss rod at just a bit straighter than fender tech support recommend(about .30mm at the eighth fret).there was certainly more relief than that when the bass arrived,and the action was set higher than I would normally go for.i think I had to turn the rod slightly over a quarter turn with the original rounds on,and then maybe a quarter turn or so more with the fender flats.this actually took the relief down to about .25mm,where I left it because it played well and I didn't want to keep unbolting the neck.since then it's moved to about .37mm.its been pretty cold here for a while so the heatings been on a lot,though I keep it in a hard case as far away from radiators as I can.
I get that I may not like them,but my main concern was the neck,only because I see people coming out with horror stories and I'm certainly guilty of overthinking things!
 
Hi sf
My English longbow comment was a rather typical for me exaggeration. I normally set my truss rod at just a bit straighter than fender tech support recommend(about .30mm at the eighth fret).there was certainly more relief than that when the bass arrived,and the action was set higher than I would normally go for.i think I had to turn the rod slightly over a quarter turn with the original rounds on,and then maybe a quarter turn or so more with the fender flats.this actually took the relief down to about .25mm,where I left it because it played well and I didn't want to keep unbolting the neck.since then it's moved to about .37mm.its been pretty cold here for a while so the heatings been on a lot,though I keep it in a hard case as far away from radiators as I can.
I get that I may not like them,but my main concern was the neck,only because I see people coming out with horror stories and I'm certainly guilty of overthinking things!

That sounds normal, and not nearly as bad as I had expected after reading your original post.:D In that case I wouldn't worry too much about testing the LaBella 760m. The Vintera P-bass necks are more robust than most, and should be able to handle the tension. Of course, there's no way of predicting how the neck will behave after several years with those utterly insane strings, but that's a risk you have to take if you want to try them. For the short term it will probably be fine.

There are lots of basses I would NEVER even consider trying the 760m on, so I totally understand why you're asking about this, but the Vintera P-basses should be able to handle it better than most.
 
A vintage spec P bass neck should be a sturdy chunk o wood. l say go for the strings, that neck should be up to it, and I know of no way of divining whether any particular neck is going to be a “lemon” short of stringing it up. If it isn’t able to withstand the stress, reverse course and sell the bass, why keep a bass that won’t give you what you want? But I think odds are great that you will be ok. 👍🏻
 
i realised why my unit weight measurement for the la bella 110 was wrong and it wasnt the dugital scale fault. I should have weighed the entire string minus the ball. And then divided that figure by the scale length. So it should have been the mass of 47" which would have been
0.08889130398lbs divided by 34" (scale length) = 0.00261445011 lbs/inch
A bit more than the Chrome 110 unit weight of .00226455lbs/inch and giving the La Bella 110 a tension of 53lbf tuned to E.
This a couple of lb more than a Roto 77 jazz flat 110. So the Jamersons are prob more akin to Roto77's tension wise.
Anyhow, a sturdy neck with no truss rod issue handles 1954's no problem.
 
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