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Walnut Jazz

I must say that looks super sweet. Do you have a fix on the estimated weight yet? I'm really curious as Walnut can be heavy.

I have another Walnut bass I built some years ago. That came in at 10.7lbs. So yeah, this stuff gets up there.

The unprofiled neck and body is coming in at 8.2lbs. Removing wood, and adding hardware, I'm guessing this will come in at low to mid 9's. Not too bad for walnut. I could go with a low mass bridge to bring it down a bit. I'll figure that out when I get there.

Cheers
 
What is this grain you all are speaking of? :)

WJ8.jpg

Oh Man, that is gorgeous!! I say no PG and no Control plate, but that's just me..

Sub'ing to this one.. Can't wait to see how it turns out!
 
I would vote for a pickguard, but I prefer a hot rod instead of a luxury car.

I could put a nice preamp in it. But I got a feeling the Lollars I'll be putting in will will be just fine by themselves.

BTW, I have a plan where I can put a pg on with out putting holes in the body. The holes are in alignment with a standard JB plate.

Stay tuned!
 
Im an idiot, so just noticing how deep into the body the neck pocket goes. I must have missed it, 24 fret neck?

I moved the neck back about 1.00". I'm making this a 33" scale. The end of the overhang of the fingerboard will be right at 24.75, so yes 24 fret so to speak. Also note that the neck pocket is 1.15 deep.

Cheers
 
Is there any technical reason you have the neck so deep in the body since you don't really have access those upper frets.

I could say that there is a greater intramolecular vibrational energy redistribution resulting in enhanced tone (magic sauce), but that would be insulting to the audience here, and I would NEVER espouse this. :woot: <<My first cup of coffee just kicked in, can ya tell?>>

In reality, this has been an evolution for my recent builds. I'm thinking a neck with more mass could potentially be more stable. Note that I am making the neck thicker as well. So far so good. For the few builds I have completed, I have yet to have to adjust the truss rod due to seasonal changes. Two of the basses are almost 2 years old, the other is only about 6 months.

Also, I think that the traditional Fender style pocket is a bit flimsy and could potentially be made more stable by putting the heal deeper into the body and using 2 extra screws to secure it to the body. Along with making the neck pocket deeper and longer, I making them so that they are what's called a transitional fit, and almost to the point where it is an interference fit. My experience is that instruments with tight neck joints just plain over all feel better.

What I am doing here is nothing new. For those of you that remember SD Curlee, this is what they did. They added mass and contact area to the neck. The neck actually ran almost the entire length of the instrument. I don't know the technical drivers behind their rationale, but my perception is that it is a very solid feeling instrument.

Another driver to my design is that I can. Everybody, and their brothers uncle do Fender clones just like a Fender. Time for a little change. Explore new worlds so to speak.

So there you have it
 
I applaud your approach, brother Scoops! People tend to forget that Fender (the man) was a pragmatist. He was completely willing to sacrifice ultimate playability in the name of ease of manufacture and repair. Hence the bolt-on 20-fret neck, with that huge blocky neck heel. Yuck. Anybody taking the time to build their own ought to at least consider the opportunity to improve upon the design.
 
I applaud your approach, brother Scoops! People tend to forget that Fender (the man) was a pragmatist. He was completely willing to sacrifice ultimate playability in the name of ease of manufacture and repair. Hence the bolt-on 20-fret neck, with that huge blocky neck heel. Yuck. Anybody taking the time to build their own ought to at least consider the opportunity to improve upon the design.

Thanks Todd!!!

I do have some progress, I have put in the arm cut and tummy cut and 1/2" round over. Seems to be coming along nicely.
WJ10.jpg
 
For inquiring minds that need to know....

Pic below shows a template that I purchased. From what I can tell, and for the most part, it's dimensionally correct.
Ive narrowed the body by a little over and inch.
Two reasons for this. First is weight. To make a walnut Jazz Bass at full size would require me to get some of my vertebrates fused together, if ya know what I mean. The other reason, my planner is only 12.5" wide. I needed to run it through a couple times to reduce the thickness

Also, you see the sledge after I have sanded it. I will let that sit for another hour or so before I wipe it off. This is the first sanding @150 grit. I'll be hand buffing this out as the pores tend to let some of the oil oozze back out. I will repeat this for 220, 320, 400, and 600. By that time, the pores should be filled in nicely. Not quite sure what the final coats are going to be though. It might be good enough by the time I get the first 5 coats sanded in. I'm also doing this a little different in that I'm using straight boiled linseed oil. I'll wait a day or 2 between coats to let the oil harden up.

I hoping to get a high luster finish

Cheers and thanks for watching

WJ12.jpg
 

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