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Warmoth build starts TODAY
- Thread starter Lonnybass
- Start date
- Feb 17, 2003
- 1,006
- 281
- Disclosures
- ........................................EX-Sadowsky Guitars Builder..........................................................
I did rough prep work on the body and drilled holes for the potentiometers. A big shout out to Rob LoPrinzi @ Sadowsky for helping me make sure everything was spec'd to accomodate the preamp and controls.
Lonny,
No Problem! Can't wait to see the finished product.
Oh....Enough tape by the way???
Rob
I like it allot, it's amazing how much the grain came alive with the oil. Oil always makes the finish look so three dimensional.
Body just after two levels of wetsanding and oiling
Just after the eighth layer of oil and third wetsanding:
Ready to dry out for the next few days before applying polyurethane:
Experimenting with my logos for the headstock:
Just after the eighth layer of oil and third wetsanding:
Ready to dry out for the next few days before applying polyurethane:
Experimenting with my logos for the headstock:
a few questions, why did you choose to oil it yourself, are there any benefits, what is that thing in the neck pocket, and are warmoths hard to assemble?
I dig your logo, but just as roadkill2309 stated, it could be bigger.
whats the font type of the lower writing? (#002 CHICAGO)
whats the font type of the lower writing? (#002 CHICAGO)
That's looking awesome Lonny! I really dig your choice of wood. I've always wondered about how much work is required to apply polyurethane. Do you think you could explain the process you used when you stick the next lot of pictures up? I'd really appreciate it!
Cliff Bordwell
Commercial User
1. The body weight is about 4 1/2 lbs. It looks heavier than it is, but mahogany is a fairly lightweight wood and offsets the bubinga. It's a little hard to make out the lamination because the colors match so well together.
2. The "thing" in the neck pocket is a jig I made out of some scrap wood and $1 worth of bolts, washers and nuts. This makes it MUCH easier to handle the body during the finishing process, considering that you have to do top, bottom and sides all without fingerprints or smudges. And raw unfinished bubinga (like many exotics) will show fingerprints just from touching the surface! The jig makes a convenient "handle" to prevent these kinds of things from happening.
3. I chose to do the finish myself because I knew I could spend the time necessary to really do it "right" and spend the time to make the figure in the grain really POP. Not to mention that it's much more rewarding when you have to use a little elbow grease!
4. The font is called "Futurist Fixed" and is off of an online font generator.
5. The process is pretty straightforward...make the neck jig and drying rack, mask off the cavity and pickup holes, begin rubbing in coats of oil. I did 2 coats per night (45 mins. between coats) for a week. Wipe off the excess after about 10 minutes. Start early because oil will seep for the next few hours and you'll want to buff these spots out, otherwise your bass will have chickenpox. Wetsanding with oil smoothed out the surface during the last 4 applications, beginning with 320 grade sandpaper, then 400, then 1000, then 1500 for each subsequent coat. I'll let the body dry for about a week, then begin putting on four or five thin coats of polyurethane, then a final wax buffing.
6. It's not "hard" to assemble if you have experience using a drill or other relatively straightforward tools (as well as the necessary small motor skills) but you'll certainly want to be comfortable in Home Depot and your local hardware store knowing what kind of supplies you need to be on the lookout for. As with any major project, advance planning is required and you'll want to make sure you are well-equipped with all the equipment you need BEFORE you get started.
Lonnybass
2. The "thing" in the neck pocket is a jig I made out of some scrap wood and $1 worth of bolts, washers and nuts. This makes it MUCH easier to handle the body during the finishing process, considering that you have to do top, bottom and sides all without fingerprints or smudges. And raw unfinished bubinga (like many exotics) will show fingerprints just from touching the surface! The jig makes a convenient "handle" to prevent these kinds of things from happening.
3. I chose to do the finish myself because I knew I could spend the time necessary to really do it "right" and spend the time to make the figure in the grain really POP. Not to mention that it's much more rewarding when you have to use a little elbow grease!
4. The font is called "Futurist Fixed" and is off of an online font generator.
5. The process is pretty straightforward...make the neck jig and drying rack, mask off the cavity and pickup holes, begin rubbing in coats of oil. I did 2 coats per night (45 mins. between coats) for a week. Wipe off the excess after about 10 minutes. Start early because oil will seep for the next few hours and you'll want to buff these spots out, otherwise your bass will have chickenpox. Wetsanding with oil smoothed out the surface during the last 4 applications, beginning with 320 grade sandpaper, then 400, then 1000, then 1500 for each subsequent coat. I'll let the body dry for about a week, then begin putting on four or five thin coats of polyurethane, then a final wax buffing.
6. It's not "hard" to assemble if you have experience using a drill or other relatively straightforward tools (as well as the necessary small motor skills) but you'll certainly want to be comfortable in Home Depot and your local hardware store knowing what kind of supplies you need to be on the lookout for. As with any major project, advance planning is required and you'll want to make sure you are well-equipped with all the equipment you need BEFORE you get started.
Lonnybass
