Warmoth neck strength

[lz4005]

Chromes the aren't high or low tension.

To know tension you have to know gauge. And that's assuming your bass is 34" scale and standard tuning.

Skinny sets of Chromes put a lot less lbs of pull on a neck than thick ones. Or thick roundwound strings for that matter.

 

[Fender_Bender]

Chromes the aren't high or low tension.

To know tension you have to know gauge. And that's assuming your bass is 34" scale and standard tuning.

Skinny sets of Chromes put a lot less lbs of pull on a neck than thick ones. Or thick roundwound strings for that matter.

Yep. My main players have the adjustment at the heel and being that that is a pita, I make my "seasonal" adjustments by varying the string gauges. It's not perfect but it works well enough.

 

[Doner Designs]

Steel stiffening rods make a difference in both stiffness and weight. Never tried the graphite.

Mine are stable but I do have to adjust them several times a year for humidity....but my strings are like suspension bridge cables....130, 115, 95, 75, 55.

 

[GrizzleTone]

The ones I have are roasted maple, with graphite rods - both of those things make them lighter.

Happy to read this thread. I have a Deluxe 5 Tiltback being built for me now, roasted maple with graphite rods. I'll need all the strength I can get as this is for a 12-string. It's going on a Thunderbird, so I'm also trying to prevent/reverse/limit neck dive.

 

[ahc]

To add to the Warmoth love fest, in the mid 80's I put a maple/maple, steel support rods, P bass neck on my 64 Jazz body. Yeah it's heavy, but I haven't had to tweak it in at least 20 years. Maybe more. I love that bass!!!

 

[pudge]

I've never had a problem with warmoth neck,guitar or bass.Steel support rods w/ thick fingerboards + hassle free for years. My cuz has my 1st one when it was boogie bodies and it's still as strong as ever.I had a prob. with one when I got it years ago,a quick call and it was replaced no hassles.TOMMY at USACG is another great option.

 

[inthebassclef]

I had a rosewood/rosewood warmth
Never needed agjusments, but weight was just too much. It tipped off at 5lbs without tuners

 

[bobpond]

I built a fretless jazz using Warmouth neck and body 30 years ago, and have made only tiny adjustments in all that time, most stable wood neck I own, only surpassed by my Steinberger, which is carbon/graphite composite. A well made neck shouldn't need a lot of fiddling. Does yours have the CF rods?

Nope, standard rods

 

[bobpond]

had the same thing happen to me when I painted my gecko neck I took the nut off to tape over the rod end and I never even put it back on until a few weeks after assembly I decided it need a slight adjustment and realized it had no nut.
though this neck was a little special, it's the one pictured at the top of the medium gecko neck page, I named this bass Puddin because the neck looks like a Jello pudding pop
View attachment 1122733 View attachment 1122740

Nice bass, funny story. I almost wish I had not needed to make an adjustment because I'm pretty sure the nut would have worked it's way off and then it would have rattling around under the pickguard. That would have been a funny story.

 

[Gord_oh]

My Warmoth neck was purchased 9 years ago, I've adjusted it twice since then because it started off with flats and I went to rounds. It's been very stable without ant issues.

Mine is a basic maple/maple jazz neck before they offered the slim taper.

Have you considered the type of wood and the conditions it's kept in? Temperature, humidity, hanging guitar stand, etc.

 

[bobpond]

Chromes the aren't high or low tension.

To know tension you have to know gauge. And that's assuming your bass is 34" scale and standard tuning.

Skinny sets of Chromes put a lot less lbs of pull on a neck than thick ones. Or thick roundwound strings for that matter.

45-132, 267.36 lbs of tension, 34" scale

If I did a 40-100 set and added the 132 that would be about 215, but too light for me.

Comparably, D'Addario ProSteels, 45-130 on the same bass would be 192.82, so the Chromes are certainly higher.

 

[bobpond]

My Warmoth neck was purchased 9 years ago, I've adjusted it twice since then because it started off with flats and I went to rounds. It's been very stable without ant issues.

Mine is a basic maple/maple jazz neck before they offered the slim taper.

Have you considered the type of wood and the conditions it's kept in? Temperature, humidity, hanging guitar stand, etc.

This particular bass is maple/maple. I finished the body and neck first with pure tung oil then Epifanes clear varnish so I'm not really concerned about climate conditions. I have 4 wall hangars so whichever 4 I'm using the most are out hanging otherwise they are in cases.

I haven't seen any movement in any of my Warmoth builds except a very little bit right after stringing them for the first time, and of course when you make a truss rod adjustment that also takes a day or so to settle in.

 

[bobpond]

Here's a pic of the bass before final assembly. The reflection's a little funny but you get the idea.

 

[BAG]

I've got two Warmoth Jazz necks and couldn't tell you how many turns i've got on the truss rods.
I do tweak them occasionally as the temp and humidity changes pretty drastically where I live. I like to have almost zero relief on the fretless and only a touch more on the fretted so when things change I do occasionally get a bit of buzz. A quarter turn is all that's needed, even on the fretted neck which is the thinnest front-to-back neck of anything that i've ever played.

 

[bobpond]

Bottom line for me the Warmoth "Super bass neck construction" just plain works.

 

[bobpond]

Steel stiffening rods make a difference in both stiffness and weight. Never tried the graphite.

Mine are stable but I do have to adjust them several times a year for humidity....but my strings are like suspension bridge cables....130, 115, 95, 75, 55.

Wow Steve that's some heavy stuff. I could make a case for building a fretless five and putting the heaviest flats I could get on it. Every bass I finish and put in the rotation I start jonesing for the next build.

I don't see a need to go graphite. I always buy from in stock and they are never graphite. I have no concern over total bass weight at this point.

Weather is so crazy. Here on Long Island, NY we have had pretty much three seasons in two weeks. I try to seal my basses up as much as I can. I'm going to try something and compare the basses I built with my Fender and Rickenbacker and Breedlove and see if they react differently than the Warmoths.

 

[FingerDub]

Here's a pic of the bass before final assembly. The reflection's a little funny but you get the idea.
View attachment 1122954

No, I don't. What's the idea?

 

[bobpond]

No, I don't. What's the idea?

Sorry I guess I should have been more explicit. Swamp ash body, dark tung oil, maple/maple neck overall pretty much mirror finish. Does that explain it enough so you can understand?

 

[FingerDub]

Sorry I guess I should have been more explicit. Swamp ash body, dark tung oil, maple/maple neck overall pretty much mirror finish. Does that explain it enough so you can understand?

Not really. At first, I thought you posted the pic to show that Warmoth necks were a good fit because it fit in the neck pocket without falling out. I was pretty sure you were trying to stay on topic... but I was wrong. I'm never right though, which has been proven yet again. Guess I should listen to my wife more.

 

[bobpond]

Not really. At first, I thought you posted the pic to show that Warmoth necks were a good fit because it fit in the neck pocket without falling out. I was pretty sure you were trying to stay on topic... but I was wrong. I'm never right though, which has been proven yet again. Guess I should listen to my wife more.

I'm the OP. I posted the pic because "pics or it didn't happen" and I messed up by not posting a pic up front.