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Warmoth Owners Club!!

Hi, could anyone tell me how wide a Warmoth 4 string neck is a the top of the neck pocket, ie. the point where it leaves the body? I am going to order one for my AVRI '57 P body, but I want to double-check all the dimensions as the last neck that i ordered ended up being some 2 milimeters too narrow even though it was supposed to be a direct replacement.
 
Hi, could anyone tell me how wide a Warmoth 4 string neck is a the top of the neck pocket, ie. the point where it leaves the body? I am going to order one for my AVRI '57 P body, but I want to double-check all the dimensions as the last neck that i ordered ended up being some 2 milimeters too narrow even though it was supposed to be a direct replacement.

You can do some research at the link below and, if that doesn't answer your question, you may want to send an email to Warmoth. I would trust the manufacturer more than people on a forum, personally, even one as good as this one! Having said that, the J and P bass necks supposedly are 64mm (2.5").

Good luck with your build!

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here is the "51 slab" 5ver I got last week from one of the lads here in the classifieds . it needed a little TLC but it was a super deal . It had Gotohs on it but it needed a larger tuner bushing thingie . I put on Lic Hipshot 1/2" and like a few suggested here I wraped a wrap or 2 of plumbers tape to snug it up . Much better fit ! I also put on a Hipshot B 17mm bridge and I rewired it with some fresh pots & cap .The neck was raw so I hit it with some Minwax wipeon and lastly I put on a G&L string tree . The bass is killer , plays perfectly and sounds pretty darn good with the Tesla pups it came with . Check it

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The Lic tuners are most excellent !

and a little clip I tracked yesterday
 
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I have a bass with a Warmoth body that I put together a couple of years ago. Been getting the itch for a new bass lately, so I went to the Warmoth website and used the body builder and neck builder tools to get an idea of the total cost of this bass I"m thinking of making.

Holy cow!

Did prices go up or did I just forget how much things cost? And I was especially surprised to see that necks can easily cost more than bodies! Guess I really have been living under a rock.

Guess I'll just have to be happy with the basses I have for now...
 
Bridge. Sweespot is closer to P position (my five string fretless with maple fretboard pictured in this thread has the MM pickup in the sweetspot position).
You could probably get Warmoth to route the pickup in the exact same spot as a MM.

Will they? I keep getting the impression that Warmoth does what they do and very little else; that they're not so much set up for custom as they simply offer a lot of options.

Of course, I suppose I could be wrong; I'm basing this on both extensive recent explorations of their website and some phone conversations with them half a dozen years ago. Since nearly everything is CNC'd having them move a pickup route to a non-standard location isn't quite as simple as requesting it...although you'd think it would be quite as simple as requesting it, and then having them just punch in a couple revised numbers into the computer. :::shrugs:::

But in my most recent Warmoth build I wanted to position a MusicMan pickup such that the most rearward coil was exactly where a 70's Jazz Bass bridge pickup was, and it turned out that neither of Warmoth's "bridge" or "sweetspot" options achieved that spacing. So I wound up ordering the body with no pickup routing, and had a local luthier do that work.
 
Will they? I keep getting the impression that Warmoth does what they do and very little else; that they're not so much set up for custom as they simply offer a lot of options.

That hasn't been my experience, at least for pickup repositioning. As long as the pickup shapes fall into their list of standard templates, they can put a pickup route pretty much anywhere on the body, for the modest fee of $45 for each pickup route.

I've ordered several bass bodies this way and there was never a problem. I got exactly what I asked for, and I was happy with the results.

Measure twice, cut once, etc.
 
Thank you :) When I saw that body in the showcase, I just couldn't help myself...
I forgot to mention it, but the Status necks don't drop in: some very light additional routing was required.
Warmoth neck on Warmoth body has always been a perfect fit.


Didn't fit? Status' neck is made for any std Jazz Bass by Fender and since Warmoth bodies are (or as far as I know: should be) a complete copy of the Fender J bass... Was it just some over-sprayed finish in the neck pocket or did the neck pocket have a wrong size?
 
I have another question regarding to my GAS-thing:
I tend to like the 'Vintage look' on a Jazz bass with pickguard and control plate (I have decided to GAS about the Jazz...) but I want to fit a preamp; which means a rear rout is required for easiest wiring space. And you know, then it won't be easy to use a control plate since the pot-shaft have to go through the body and the control plate. So is it possible?
 
I think it depends on the maker if the preamp. I fitted a John East U-Retro preamp in the Warmoth with the black korina body and the shafts seemed long enough for the extra length of a control plate.
I underline "seem", because it is something you will need to check out ;)
Warmoth are very consistent with the routing, and if you measure the control plate too you'll have a pretty accurate idea of what kind of length you'll need for the shafts.
If I were to order a body with your project in mind, I wouldn't have the holes routed though: it would be safer to make the holes once the pickguard and control plate are in place.

Incidentally, there is a version of the John East preamp that comes mounted on a jazz control plate and fits standard front routing.
 
If I were to order a body with your project in mind, I wouldn't have the holes routed though: it would be safer to make the holes once the pickguard and control plate are in place.



Incidentally, there is a version of the John East preamp that comes mounted on a jazz control plate and fits standard front routing.

That's what I thought. But I won't damage the finish if I drill holes in it? I'm rather new into the 'build it yourself' stuff. I'm thinking of maybe fitting Aguilar OBP-1 in it. Or maybe a Bartolini.

Edit: That was probably a stupid question since you have to drill the holes for the pickguard yourself!
 
Just finished this Warmoth Jazz build...
4.5 lb alder showcase body...surf green
Maple/maple thin-profile showcase neck...vintage tint satin
DiMarzio Type J pickups with John East Retro J pre
BadAss II bridge
Bone nut, Setup & PLEK by Phil Jacoby of Philtone Guitars in Baltimore.

It plays very clean & snappy. Very light weight.

Bitchin'.

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