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Warmoth Owners Club!!

One big reason they don't drill the holes for the pickguard is because, if you decide for one reason or another you don't like the body or finish, you can return it within 10 days. If it had been pre drilled for their pickguard then that would severely limit their ability to resell the body.

In fact, that is something to keep in mind, any returned parts cannot show any evidence of assembly or prep. Be sure you are 100% happy with the finish before you start putting your project together.
 
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Cost of materials would be pretty cheap but your time investment would be considerable if you really want a pro quality result. If you aren't looking for a mirror finish deep gloss then I say go for it. If you don't mind a drip or two here or there and perhaps some grain showing through, then try it yourself.
 
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Just realised I'm not part of this club yet. And here I was thinking I'd posted this everywhere I could have.

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Warmoth Jazzmaster IV body in sonic blue, routed for Notdstrand Big Singles (EMG35 size - the regular size wouldn't have fit the pickguard), Fender HMV string through bridge, with a Fender American Jaguar neck.

Very happy with how it turned out. Warmoth's customer service and final product were great. I did have some troubles at first with the bridge bottoming out and not being able to get the action where I wanted, but a shim in the neck pocket changed that and it now plays great.
 
So I finished my Warmoth Deluxe P/J-5 this morning. Wow, refinishing the body was not easy. Still have to sand it down, fill the pores and give it one more application. But it'll be just fine for now.
The tone from the active EMG's is to die for! No preamp. Neck is straight and fret job is of better quality than a bass 3 times the price! Can you say Fender Killer? I can and just made one... Plays like butta and still under 10lbs...

Before strings, metal knobs (for balance) and setup...
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After a full setup. This is an amazing sounding/playing bass. Worth the effort and investment in every way!
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Played this bass at rehearsal last night and was pleasantly surprised at the dark, smooth growl. With passive tone control, I can dial in some nice, sweet sounding highs w/o any brittleness. Mids are just right! Fantastic wood/pickup combo! Best value per dollar I've ever dropped on a bass.
 
i pretty sure i've posted this one before , but like a bad penny , here it is again ...:D
my 2003 Warmoth Thunder-Jazz !!
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Acacia Koa body and neck , topped with Zebrawood
Pau Ferro fretboard
Lollar ThunderBird pickups
Schaller tuners
Gotoh bridge
this bass has been well used and well loved ...
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my own logo ...
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Hello there builders and brothers of the low end. Question:
Is there any way to figure out how this build would balance at least fairly well? I am looking at a medium scale p/j bass and want something on the lighter side, but with some nicer neck / fingerboard choices. That last sentence obviously leeds to neck dive, but is there some kind of formula as far as judging the body weight and neck weight? Common sense says maybe they should be close??? Thanks for the input.

Shawn
 
Hello there builders and brothers of the low end. Question:
Is there any way to figure out how this build would balance at least fairly well? I am looking at a medium scale p/j bass and want something on the lighter side, but with some nicer neck / fingerboard choices. That last sentence obviously leeds to neck dive, but is there some kind of formula as far as judging the body weight and neck weight? Common sense says maybe they should be close??? Thanks for the input.

Shawn
Actually, the reality is that neck and body weight have very little to do with neck dive; it's all about balance and treating the instrument as a fulcrum. Heavy, stamped tuners will almost guarantee a neck to *want* to dive; feather-lights add minimal weight at the very tip of the seesaw.

A lot of people like to add mass to counteract neck dive with a heavier body and/or hardware, which can and does work, but a simple repositioning of the strap buttons can be equally effective. For example, placing the rear tuner in line with, or slighty above, the E/B string, and possibly installing the front button on a downward angle, pointing slightly towards the neck on the upper horn, or lower than standard on a single cut. Both of these modifications give the result of putting the bass in a more vertical and natural playing position when worn with a strap.
 
Hello there builders and brothers of the low end. Question:
Is there any way to figure out how this build would balance at least fairly well? I am looking at a medium scale p/j bass and want something on the lighter side, but with some nicer neck / fingerboard choices. That last sentence obviously leeds to neck dive, but is there some kind of formula as far as judging the body weight and neck weight? Common sense says maybe they should be close??? Thanks for the input.

Shawn
I'll be curious to see what the answers are from others on this but my initial feeling is that you want the neck to be a pound and a half to 2 pounds lighter than the body.
 
Actually, the reality is that neck and body weight have very little to do with neck dive; it's all about balance and treating the instrument as a fulcrum. Heavy, stamped tuners will almost guarantee a neck to *want* to dive; feather-lights add minimal weight at the very tip of the seesaw.

A lot of people like to add mass to counteract neck dive with a heavier body and/or hardware, which can and does work, but a simple repositioning of the strap buttons can be equally effective. For example, placing the rear tuner in line with, or slighty above, the E/B string, and possibly installing the front button on a downward angle, pointing slightly towards the neck on the upper horn, or lower than standard on a single cut. Both of these modifications give the result of putting the bass in a more vertical and natural playing position when worn with a strap.
I don't disagree entirely with what you're saying but if you want a lightweight bass, as in less than 8 pounds, then you can't have the body parts weigh in at much more than 6 pounds. Since even the lightest of bodies is around 4 pounds, that means the neck can't be more than 2 pounds or so.
 
I don't disagree entirely with what you're saying but if you want a lightweight bass, as in less than 8 pounds, then you can't have the body parts weigh in at much more than 6 pounds. Since even the lightest of bodies is around 4 pounds, that means the neck can't be more than 2 pounds or so.
Absolutely true, and I agree. But the question is one of balance- as in, how to? I read the weight portion:
is there some kind of formula as far as judging the body weight and neck weight? Common sense says maybe they should be close???
as a direct relation to how they should compare to one another (neck to body weight ratio), not as a question of how much they should weigh. That's personal preference.

Edit: For example/reference of what I mean, I've played a 10lb bass that balanced so perfectly, I honestly could barely notice the difference in weight between it and my 8lb Ibanez after hours of playing.
 
Absolutely true, and I agree. But the question is one of balance- as in, how to? I read the weight portion:

as a direct relation to how they should compare to one another (neck to body weight ratio), not as a question of how much they should weigh. That's personal preference.

Edit: For example/reference of what I mean, I've played a 10lb bass that balanced so perfectly, I honestly could barely notice the difference in weight between it and my 8lb Ibanez after hours of playing.
The OP stated he wanted a fairly light bass, with that in mind it's not even practical to consider the ratio of the weight of the neck and body. You pretty much need the lightest of both components. Since the body can only be so light, the neck is required to weigh in less than the body.
 
I understand what you're saying, and I partially agree, so perhaps I'm not explaining myself properly. My reference to a neck/body weight ratio was in answer to shawn's query of a formula for such, and I was stating that such a ratio in unnecessary. My contention that bass "weight" is more often an issue of balance stems from experience, both personal and anecdotal, that a properly balanced heavier bass will put less stress on your body and feel lighter than an improperly balanced lighter one- resulting in less fatigue over longer periods. I'm not saying it's a cold, hard fact; call Science and give me my Prize. I'm saying IMO, IME, I know it's worked for others, even people w/ back and shoulder pain, yadda yadda yadda. Just putting it out here, hoping it might help others.
 
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All of the above suggestions are a huge plus! I am not SOLD on a strictly featherweight Bass, but definitely comfy and balanced. I also failed to mention that I will be going the 32" scale route as well and that I have been spoiled with my 32" Bordwell that comes in under 7lbs. I am really looking fwd to the process of picking everything out > opening (like a school boy) > build/solder > PLAYING my new Warmoth!!

Thanks for the advice and keep them coming.............

Be Well
Shawn