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Warmoth Owners Club!!

Can anyone comment on the 5 string necks thickness and how they feel? (Deluxe or otherwise) I'm seriously considering building a 5 string jazz but looking at the specs the neck is quite thick, 22mm->25mm puts it on par with my Warwick Corvette $$ which is a bit of a weapon. I adore the sound of that bass but it has pretty bad neck dive and is a little bit uncomfortable to play so was looking for a slimmer 5 but if the Warmoth 5 is similar I might have to just build a slim 4 string instead and upgrade the Warwick in the future to a post 2008 model with the newer neck.
They are huge and unless paired with a very heavy body (at least 5lbs or more) will dive. I have two with bodies around 4lbs 6oz and without a thick, suede backed strap they dive even with Hipshot Ultralite tuners.

They still play and sound great so I'm prepared to compromise and I don't want any additional weight added with a heavier body. The steel reinforcement bars weigh only around 150 grammes more than the carbon reinforcement bars -so I doubt even that would make much difference.
 
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They are huge and unless paired with a very heavy body (at least 5lbs or more) will dive. I have two with bodies around 4lbs 6oz and without a thick, suede backed strap they dive even with Hipshot Ultralite tuners.

They still play and sound great so I'm prepared to compromise and I don't want any additional weight added with a heavier body. The steel reinforcement bars weigh only around 150 grammes more than the carbon reinforcement bars -so I doubt even that would make much difference.

Good info, thanks. In that case I might go for the slim taper 4 string for my Warmoth build (dying to do a wenge or roasted flame maple neck build, can't decide on the body) and stick to getting another Warwick 5 string, or maybe a new Stingray with one of those tasty roasted maple necks, that I can actually play first as 5 strings seem a little more finicky for me to find one that is what I want.

Been looking through loads of Warmoth woods and finishes for the past week, I am awful at picking something and am absolutely paralysed by choice haha, even something like the steel vs. graphite rods in the neck has me doing loads of research. I suspect it's going to take quite a while before I even order my parts but it's a lot of fun already!

Once again this XKCD is extremely relevant to me and Warmoth as a whole
decision_paralysis.png
 
I love my Warmoth. Had this thing for 5+ years now and gig with it all the time. She's heavy, more than most people here would like, but the tone I get is totally worth it.

Ash body in Daphne Blue
Norstrand NJ4 70's wound pickups
Aguilar OBP-2 preamp.
(Volume, blend, tone (also works with active on), bass cut/boost and treble cut/boost)
Hipshot bridge
Schaller tuners
Warmoth maple on maple neck 70's style.
 

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I love my Warmoth. Had this thing for 5+ years now and gig with it all the time. She's heavy, more than most people here would like, but the tone I get is totally worth it.

Ash body in Daphne Blue
Norstrand NJ4 70's wound pickups
Aguilar OBP-2 preamp.
(Volume, blend, tone (also works with active on), bass cut/boost and treble cut/boost)
Hipshot bridge
Schaller tuners
Warmoth maple on maple neck 70's style.
I really like their daphne blue. That’s real nice
 
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My 5th build and my first fiver. I wanted a big brother to my first build. Alder body, Roasted maple neck & board. Nordstrand Bigman 5, modified Nordy 3-band, volume/passive tone, mids selectable @ 200Hz/400Hz, bass/treble, a/p switch, series/single/parallel switch. Hipshot hardware. Electrosocket jack plate and Dunlop strap locks. Pickguard designed & cut by me. Total weight is 8lbs. 11 oz

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I’m looking at Warmoth short scale (30”) bodies for a future build.

I’ve contacted Warmoth to know the distance from the end of the neck pocket to the end of the scale, as I will need it to position pickups properly (Ric positions). They replied they didn’t have this information and could only provide the distance from the end of the neck pocket to the middle of the crew holes for a standard Fender bridge: 10” 11/16 (10.6875 inches). This is for a short scale Precision body.

StewMac’s fret position calculator says the distance from the nut to the 20th fret is 20.551 inches, and that the standard bridge holes are drilled 0.882 inches after the end of the scale.

The math doesn’t add up: 30 – 20.551 + 0.882 = 31.0875 (and I’m not factoring in the heel of the neck after the 20th fret).

Can a gentle soul provide the measurement of the 30” short scale neck from the nut to the end of the neck (including the heel butt after the 20th fret)?
 
I’m looking at Warmoth short scale (30”) bodies for a future build.

I’ve contacted Warmoth to know the distance from the end of the neck pocket to the end of the scale, as I will need it to position pickups properly (Ric positions). They replied they didn’t have this information and could only provide the distance from the end of the neck pocket to the middle of the crew holes for a standard Fender bridge: 10” 11/16 (10.6875 inches). This is for a short scale Precision body.

StewMac’s fret position calculator says the distance from the nut to the 20th fret is 20.551 inches, and that the standard bridge holes are drilled 0.882 inches after the end of the scale.

The math doesn’t add up: 30 – 20.551 + 0.882 = 31.0875 (and I’m not factoring in the heel of the neck after the 20th fret).

Can a gentle soul provide the measurement of the 30” short scale neck from the nut to the end of the neck (including the heel butt after the 20th fret)?
According to the Invalid Link Removed website, the length from the nut to the end of the fretboard on a 30" scale neck is 22.438". It doesn't give the measurement from the nut to the butt of the neck, but judging from the photos, it's about 1/2" in from the end of the fretboard, maybe 5/8".