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Warmoth: Undervalued?

How would you value warmoth products?

  • undervalued. new or used, my final answer.

    Votes: 28 21.4%
  • overvalued. new or used, my final answer

    Votes: 15 11.5%
  • A bargain New from warmoth.

    Votes: 6 4.6%
  • A bargain only if used (about 50% of new).

    Votes: 28 21.4%
  • I don't like Warmoth either way.

    Votes: 12 9.2%
  • I like Warmoth, but would pay Nino to build it.

    Votes: 42 32.1%

  • Total voters
    131
  • Poll closed .
I'm not going to vote, because, once again, the poll does not give all possible responses. Like that's a news flash!

Warmoth's products are top notch.

If you buy them, and you know what you are doing, you can build yourself an amazing bass. And most likely a beautiful one.

Now- having said that- if you look at a "Warmoth" bass for sale, you have NO clue if the person who built it knew what they were doing. It's an unknown. You MUST see the instrument in person and take it apart to find out if it's been assembled well.

That's why Warmoth basses don't have terrific resale value, beyond the value of the actual body and neck. It's a crap shoot.

I'm sure that Valenti and other people build exceptional instruments out of Warmoth parts. Again, it's all about whether the builder knows how a great bass should be built or not.

The two Warmoths I have, I cherish, even though I had to teach myself how to do the assembly, wiring, and finishing on them.

I say build the basses, and then NEVER sell them. They are YOURS, in a way that no finished bass off the rack will ever be.
 
... is pieces and parts for building and/or upgrading short scale basses.

If I could get short necks or pickups for smaller basses, I'd spend a lot of money there.

For example, an item that would sell would be a replacement neck for EB-0 basses. The originals were legendary for being neck-heavy. I solved this by buying a cheap short scale bass that used a maple-rosewood style neck and using it to replace the heavy mahogany neck and headstock of the EB-0.

Result, a balanced EB-0 that has a richer tone, better highs and faster, easier playability than the way it came standard.

I have played some classic EB-0's that sell for well over a grand, and they have nothing on my little hybrid.

I'd also like to get bridges and pickups that are slightly downsized for smaller bodies and string widths.

So in a nutshell, Warmoth doesn't offer me much that I want to buy.
 
I really believe that they deliver fine products and as long as the bass you are building is J or P it's maybe better to buy than to build it yourself. CNC routers will absolutely have perfect mmeasurements and building it youself without jigs will be difficult.

When I build a J or a P I often suggest a Warmoth body (and neck). This will keep prices lower and has no influence on quality. Since my instruments are equally difficult to sell later there is no reselling issue.

So very good value for money

Bas
www.bas-extravaganza.nl
 

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I have 2 Warmoths. One is a Dinky P Archtop solid White Korina with a Modulus neck. The other is a Gecko Prototype 5 string, with a Fender neck pocket, mahogany and a solid Maple neck with Maple Fretboard. They have great machined products that fit well together and really good prices. Not low end, not high end, but really moderatly priced. The way the bodies and necks fit together, it makes it easy to complet your won project. However, the resale for them is not that great, so if you do go with a Warmoth plan on either loosing money on resale or keeping it. I have had my Dinky P for 4 years now. I love it and would not get rid of it for anything. I just finished my 5'er and have not even started playing it.
 
Ben Rose said:
Does anyone here have experience reshaping Warmoth necks? I'd like to build a Gecko, but I'm concerned that the neck will be too chunky. I like relatively thin Ibanez/Fbass style profiles.
As I just started playing mine, I do not find the neck any thicker (Fretboard to back of the neck) than my Modulus or my 2000 MIA Fender. It has a very nice 10 degree radius too. The only thing I am not comfortable with is the width (B to G string). All of my 4 strings have a 1-1/2" Nut width and I chose the 5 string nut width of 1-3/4". To me that extra 1/4" is a pretty great distance.