Warning!! This finish will not suit most tastes!

[earlysecond]

JIO- I will try the saran wrap technique. The limitations that I have found with removing paint from the last coat is that it needs to stay wet, open, uncured. . .whatever long enough to work the entire piece. I have tried this before, outside on a cement porch floor with limited success as the last coat applied was epoxy primer and it was drying too fast to work with. Plus the saran wrap was blowing in the wind that particular day! It's worth a go. I need too many more plywood "guitar" body cutouts to practice on though. While I was spraying clear on this job I was experimenting with Water Based finishes as well with a different gun. Thanks for your input.
Brent

 

[hrodbert696]

Not my thing--I like to see the woodgrain--but just as a pattern--it is cool--and would look great on some things.
ANd if that's what you're into for a bass--cool.

I wouldn't apply a finish like this to some exotic wood with an amazing grain, certainly. But if you're just talking routine alder or basswood, why not?

 

[Rôckhewer]

That may be less of a 'swirl' finish than a negative paper/rag/plastic roll. Hard to describe but you apply the colours over the surface and then press crumpled newsprint, rags or plastic sheeting into the active paint turning it as you dab/press the material, thus removing paint and leaving shapes/forms from the creased material. It's tricky but effective if done right.

As for me....
I wasn't concerned with the type of finish in the picture. ....I just wanted to know what those colors were & if they were available like that, (or maybe custom mixed them.)

 

[JIO]

As for me....
I wasn't concerned with the type of finish in the picture. ....I just wanted to know what those colors were & if they were available like that, (or maybe custom mixed them.)

Without knowing the specifics of how it was done, that would be difficult. As in, it could be dyes, or paints and any version of either made by any number of companies.

JIO- I will try the saran wrap technique. The limitations that I have found with removing paint from the last coat is that it needs to stay wet, open, uncured. . .whatever long enough to work the entire piece. I have tried this before, outside on a cement porch floor with limited success as the last coat applied was epoxy primer and it was drying too fast to work with. Plus the saran wrap was blowing in the wind that particular day! It's worth a go. I need too many more plywood "guitar" body cutouts to practice on though. While I was spraying clear on this job I was experimenting with Water Based finishes as well with a different gun. Thanks for your input.
Brent

The secret to these types of techniques is keeping the material 'open' while working with it. Additives of various kinds depending on the make-up need to be mixed w/the material (colour) to prohibit drying. Also you need a controlled environment and temperature. A 4x8 sheet of plywood can provide a test-area to experiment on, or sheet-rock scraps. When paint has extenders it is thinner and can be applied w/a soft wide brush or sea-sponge over the base colour. Once you start texturing it with the crumpled (newsprint/rag/plastic- each has distinct visual differences) the discrepancies of a less than even over-layer will not be an issue. Hope this helps. There most likely are tutorials on youtube to watch.

I found these 2 samples from my old portfolio - don't do these techniques any more, they were big in the 80's/90's. This is a 2 colour (yellow base/ocher over-layer) rag roll.

This one (again 2 colours-light brown base/darker brown over layer) uses small cardboard squares w/ crisp edges to create shell-like shapes/texture. Don't have one using newsprint - but it creates longer more spiky texture when laid out length-wise.

 

[T_Bone_TL]

As for me....
I wasn't concerned with the type of finish in the picture. ....I just wanted to know what those colors were & if they were available like that, (or maybe custom mixed them.)

Nip down to your local art supply store, get a lot of scrap ready to test, and have at it. Take the picture with you if you are fixated on those exact colors, though I'd bet there are just 3, and the rest comes from mixing as they are applied, but I could be wrong. If going on something with decent grain, lean to the dye/transparent end of available coloring materials, rather than the paint/opaque end.

90% of doing well is not using your "final project that has to be right" as the testbed. Figure out what works by testing, with low stress, on scrap, until you can get what you want. Then move the tested process to the actual project.

 

[Rôckhewer]

Nip down to your local art supply store, get a lot of scrap ready to test, and have at it. Take the picture with you if you are fixated on those exact colors, though I'd bet there are just 3, and the rest comes from mixing as they are applied, but I could be wrong. If going on something with decent grain, lean to the dye/transparent end of available coloring materials, rather than the paint/opaque end.

90% of doing well is not using your "final project that has to be right" as the testbed. Figure out what works by testing, with low stress, on scrap, until you can get what you want. Then move the tested process to the actual project.

I get it .
Just wondering if anyone happened to recognize those particular colors.

 

[earlysecond]

Test, test then test again. I could have used one more test on this one but its fine now.