1. Please take 30 seconds to register your free account to remove most ads, post topics, make friends, earn reward points at our store, and more!  
    TalkBass.com has been uniting the low end since 1998.  Join us! :)

Warwick Just-A-Nut I or II?

Discussion in 'Basses [BG]' started by RedVampyre, Apr 3, 2005.

  1. RedVampyre


    Jan 10, 2005
    Alabama, USA
    I'm about to get my Thumb 4 NT. Should I get it with a Just-A-Nut I or II? Please fill me in with your thoughts...
  2. get the just a nut 1. i have the # 2 and imho its quite the cop out. the brass one is the same material as the frets, just by this i think the tone between open and fretted would be alot closer. that said, there are drawbacks to the just a nut 1. i like to hear what they are too!
  3. JAL


    Dec 15, 2004
    Cleveland, Ohio
    I like the II- the adjustments are so much quicker, but as B said, brass is good.
  4. Figjam


    Aug 5, 2003
    Boston, MA
    I tihnk the brass one provides better resonation.
  5. Whafrodamus


    Oct 29, 2003
    Andover, MA
    The II is cheap. 1 is the way to goo. Rarr.
  6. The brass version is the coveted one. Apparently the difference in tone between the brass and the plastic nut is similar to the difference between Ovankol necks and the Wenge necks.
  7. JAL


    Dec 15, 2004
    Cleveland, Ohio
    Is it possible to replace a II with a I? Im now curious.
  8. Hmmm not heard of this before and i was just starting to look at warwicks, si this a standard option?

    Nut 1 normal plastic?
    Nut 2 Brass?

    Is the brass a 0 fret or an actual nut?

    Thanks out to anyone who can give some info.

  9. Franklin229


    Jul 25, 2004
    Northeast USA
    The #1 is the Brass. The best of the two. Warwick nuts are easily installed. I have replaced all the plastic nuts on my three basses with brass.
    As per the Warwick tech:
    Warwick nuts are held in with "crazy glue" type adhesive. You can use a thin putty knife to carefully pry off the nut, delicately sand the area to get rid of any glue, wash the new nut with hot water/dish det to make sure it's clean. Apply a few drops of crazy glue to the neck. Be carefull not to get any glue down the truss rod cavity or on the nut adjustment screws. Put the new nut in place, making sure it's centered to the fingerboard. Let it sit for a few minutes until dry. Then string it up, adjust and play.
  10. JAL


    Dec 15, 2004
    Cleveland, Ohio
    Just wonder where i can find one! Own a corvette freless, wouldnt mind subbin the AAN two out.
  11. RedVampyre


    Jan 10, 2005
    Alabama, USA
    I own a Vampyre LTD 4 and a Rockbass Fortress 4 that both have the Just-A-Nut II. I like the II a lot, but I think I'll go with the I on the Thumb. Thanks for all the input! It is much appreciated! :)
  12. I got one through my local Warwick dealer... who ordered it from Warwick in Germany.

    The Graphite Just-A-Nut II on my Streamer was broken when I brought it (One of the "brackets" which guide the "main piece" was broken off... :meh: hard to explain....)

    I just requested a Just-A-Nut and put a note "Brass nut preferred"... and (three months later)... a brass one turned up.

    Don't know if I was just lucky though...

    FWIW it appeared to be second-hand... perhaps meaning they don't have new ones anymore.
  13. Zooberwerx

    Zooberwerx Gold Supporting Member

    Dec 21, 2002
    Virginia Beach, VA
    Hmm...I've got an original adjust-a-nut 4 sitting in my junk drawer. Bought it as a spare years ago. Might try to install it using the crazy glue method described.

  14. rimtism123


    Mar 25, 2009
    Birmingham, AL

    The clips on my Corvette broke as well...so I'm taking a look at a brass Just A Nut 3
  15. mmbongo

    mmbongo Dilly Dilly! Supporting Member

    Aug 5, 2009
    I hated the Just-A-Nut 1. Every time you take a string off, it's impossible to keep the screw head from moving so your string height gets all mucked up every time you change strings.
  16. ModuMan

    ModuMan How many is too many? Supporting Member

    Feb 23, 2007
    Bristol, CT #19
    You do *NOT* want a JAN II. The clips break off way too easily. When you look at a used Warwick, be sure to check the nut. You'll be surprised how many you find with a broken JAN II.

    That said, the JAN III is great and I like mine just fine. While brass is obviously a different material I think the adjustment of the JAN III is much easier.
  17. Jon Moody

    Jon Moody Commercial User

    Sep 9, 2007
    Kalamazoo, MI
    Manager of Digital Brand Development and Product Development at GHS Strings
    If you have the option, go with the brass version of the JAN III. It is a great improvement over the previous ones. I have the regular III on my Streamer, and there is a modicum of tonal difference between open strings and fretted notes, so don't let that sway you.

    That said, I still really like the JAN I on my '96 Vette.
  18. Malachi71


    Oct 11, 2007
    I have a Just-A-Nut II on my Corvette Fretless and one of the tabs is broke. It still works fine but I'm looking at a III to replace it. Does it matter if I get the brass vs synthetic since it's fretless?

    Who sells these for the best price in the states?
  19. EarlTroutman


    Nov 18, 2010
    Email these people. They are the new reps for Warwick in the USA. Very nice to work with and prices are much lower than ordering from Warwick in Germany.

    Customer Service, Hanser Music Group

    I have the JAN I on my 1994 Fortress. The screws, which are brass, have worked loose and part of the 'buzz' from the strings are actually from the JAN I. I have the JAN III on order and should have it soon. The Warwick website states that the main issue with the JAN II is that it breaks. The JAN III is a harder material.
  20. Malachi71


    Oct 11, 2007
    Thanks for the information. I'm thinking the synthetic III might be fine for fretless. It doesn't seem worth the extra cost to get brass when there are no brass frets.