Greetings TB,
I had the sides of my JAN2 break off my 2002 Corvette (MiG) and just replaced it with a JAN1 and thought I would share.
A few notes:
The 38.5mm was a perfect fit width-wise. However, a few issues did arise:
1. The Angle of the JAN1 did not fit flush with both the fretboard and headstock after removal of the JAN2 glue. I used a precision file to remove some material from the black laminate on the headstock, allowing a tight fit. The laminate was thick enough that I did not have to get into the wood.
2. There is a ~3mm gap between the JAN1 and the truss rod cover. This gap was VERY noticeable and you could see the truss screw through the gap. After several iterations of blocking this with different materials, I decided to utilize the JAN2 baseplate. I removed the glue on the bottom, and beveled the edges. I then sanded one edge flat and flush to the headstock angle and placed it above the JAN1, filling in the gap for the most part.
Other notes:
*I used Titebond wood glue on the headstock edge only for the nut, and lined the upper corner of the nut and headstock for the "gap-filler". This is holding up well so far.
*If you try and replicate this, take your time and go slow, once you remove material from the headstock or JAN2 base, you cannot put it back.
*I actually ordered a JAN3, but got a JAN1. No complaints, but the string height adjustment takes longer with the JAN1, because you have to loosen the strings more to spin the individual saddles.
Here are 2 pics of result:
I had the sides of my JAN2 break off my 2002 Corvette (MiG) and just replaced it with a JAN1 and thought I would share.
A few notes:
The 38.5mm was a perfect fit width-wise. However, a few issues did arise:
1. The Angle of the JAN1 did not fit flush with both the fretboard and headstock after removal of the JAN2 glue. I used a precision file to remove some material from the black laminate on the headstock, allowing a tight fit. The laminate was thick enough that I did not have to get into the wood.
2. There is a ~3mm gap between the JAN1 and the truss rod cover. This gap was VERY noticeable and you could see the truss screw through the gap. After several iterations of blocking this with different materials, I decided to utilize the JAN2 baseplate. I removed the glue on the bottom, and beveled the edges. I then sanded one edge flat and flush to the headstock angle and placed it above the JAN1, filling in the gap for the most part.
Other notes:
*I used Titebond wood glue on the headstock edge only for the nut, and lined the upper corner of the nut and headstock for the "gap-filler". This is holding up well so far.
*If you try and replicate this, take your time and go slow, once you remove material from the headstock or JAN2 base, you cannot put it back.
*I actually ordered a JAN3, but got a JAN1. No complaints, but the string height adjustment takes longer with the JAN1, because you have to loosen the strings more to spin the individual saddles.
Here are 2 pics of result:
