WBO 2022: Löwenbäss

[RichterScale]

There's NO WAY this is quick!

It's fine. Just a quick little loop around front and right back out. Not going way in the back. Just keep your hands and feet inside the car at all times, do not feed, talk to or make eye contact with any of the inhabitants, do not throw pennies into any caverns and absolutely NO flash photography.

 

[BishopJP]

@RichterScale it sounds like you've got your finish plan already, but my 2 cents anyway...

WB poly - even though you can sand it after a couple hours, I would not consider it fully cured for a few weeks. I've used it on furniture and instrument projects previously and it would still dent after a couple weeks. Could be something I did, though...

As for the wenge; I have had issues with wax building up in the grain and leaving white flecks/spots so I have started using black shoe polish, which is mostly carnuba wax anyway. Seems to work.

 

[RichterScale]

@RichterScale it sounds like you've got your finish plan already, but my 2 cents anyway...

WB poly - even though you can sand it after a couple hours, I would not consider it fully cured for a few weeks. I've used it on furniture and instrument projects previously and it would still dent after a couple weeks. Could be something I did, though...

As for the wenge; I have had issues with wax building up in the grain and leaving white flecks/spots so I have started using black shoe polish, which is mostly carnuba wax anyway. Seems to work.

Yep. I've applied 3 coats to my test piece today, with 2 hrs between coats and just a very, very light brush over the top with 320 on the sanding block to take down any nibs. Literally just the weight of the block.
I dug a tiny piece of lint out of one of the pores with the tip of a razor blade and even through the last coat was dry, it was definitely still soft.
So, I assume that I should probably wait a few weeks after the final final coat to do a final level sand? Or does it still move a bit for a few weeks and level out more before it fully cures?

 

[TerribleTim68]

OMG! You're on the front page! You're famous now! This bass is instantly worth 4 times more!

 

[RichterScale]

$$$$$$$$$

 

[RichterScale]

It's all about who ya know

 

[TerribleTim68]

 

[dwizum]

Your prize is a whole bunch of drive by posts from people who aren't interested in the thread and just want to hear themselves talk!

 

[TerribleTim68]

Your prize is a whole bunch of drive by posts from people who aren't interested in the thread and just want to hear themselves talk!

They will vote on aesthetic choices!

 

[RichterScale]

OMG, those guys are so sexy, I can't even handle it.
I think I'm pregnant.

 

[BishopJP]

Yep. I've applied 3 coats to my test piece today, with 2 hrs between coats and just a very, very light brush over the top with 320 on the sanding block to take down any nibs. Literally just the weight of the block.
I dug a tiny piece of lint out of one of the pores with the tip of a razor blade and even through the last coat was dry, it was definitely still soft.
So, I assume that I should probably wait a few weeks after the final final coat to do a final level sand? Or does it still move a bit for a few weeks and level out more before it fully cures?

Certainly not an expert, but based on my experience, I would complete the finish up to final coat, then let it sit for a few weeks before playing the bass. You could probably assemble the bass, and probably even string it up, but trying to play it may mar the finish.

Also, I would wait to buff or wax...

 

[TerribleTim68]

Certainly not an expert, but based on my experience, I would complete the finish up to final coat, then let it sit for a few weeks before playing the bass. You could probably assemble the bass, and probably even string it up, but trying to play it may mar the finish.

Also, I would wait to buff or wax...

See, this freaks me out because what you're really saying is, we only have about 2 weeks left to finish our builds and then the rest of the time is for finish to dry.

 

[RichterScale]

See, this freaks me out because what you're really saying is, we only have about 2 weeks left to finish our builds and then the rest of the time is for finish to dry.

BOOM!!

 

[RichterScale]

Your prize is a whole bunch of drive by posts from people who aren't interested in the thread and just want to hear themselves talk!

Can't wait.

 

[BishopJP]

See, this freaks me out because what you're really saying is, we only have about 2 weeks left to finish our builds and then the rest of the time is for finish to dry.

I mean, kinda...

 

[Beej]

Well, technically, it has to be giggable, not necessarily completely finished. But take heed that the Voterati will judge harshly when they stop in to vote, and remember because this is TB, fender-looking stuff nearly always wins.

 

[RichterScale]

What if I get a fender decal for the headstock?

 

[BishopJP]

What if I get a fender decal for the headstock?

tar, feathers, etc...

Well, technically, it has to be giggable, not necessarily completely finished. But take heed that the Voterati will judge harshly when they stop in to vote, and remember because this is TB, fender-looking stuff nearly always wins.

This!

Despite what I said about the finish, 5 minutes before the WBO ends, I will be waving my bass in the air, trying to get the finish to dry so I can get a picture...

 

[Beej]

What if I get a fender decal for the headstock?

At that point you need to post it in Basses with a "is this a real fender?" tagline and enjoy the discourse. Someone will be convinced it's real, others will dive in with posts about minutiae proving it's not, several people will talk about how their Squiers are as good as or better than real Fenders, so you should trade it for a Squier, etc.

 

[RichterScale]

post it in Basses

Nope. Don't like it out there.
I like it here in little LCville.