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WBO 2022 ReReRebuilt little mule

Made all the control plates, nothing fancy. Wouldn't use this wood again, but just harvesting what's available
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Here's the completed Partial build for the Mule

Specs
:
Body: multi-piece pine from used 2x4"
Neck: Used neck from 2019 Squier Jazz (used from classifieds)
Neck/Body Join: bolt on with Fender neck plate
Scale Length: 34"
Fingerboard Radius: 9.5" radius, rosewood

Strings: Very well broken in EB Slinky .045"-.100"
Pickups: Altec ceramic EB-0 humbucker (donated for another project)
Electronics: Passive
Controls: Volume/Tone
Knobs: pearl inlay dome top knurled (used from classifieds)

Covers
: wood panel, sprayed black
Jack: Front mount through recycled stainless steel
Pickguard: black painted recycled stainless
Bridge: Fender standard in standard chrome
Tuners: Squier Jazz, standard chrome
Finish: Krylon Heirloom white

Strap: Onani's
Strap mount: traditional chrome
Build cost: approximately $125

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Some after thoughts

After plugging 2 pickup routes, I would probably have done the filler a little different. It's not bad, but could be better

I will start routing the neck pockets deeper on any bolt on builds, maybe .030 to .060" deeper. Most of my basses have the screws out of the saddles for the E and G, some have to bottom of the saddle filed off

With the pine body, it's light. Between the wood, dead strings, and the humbucker, it not a top end sound. But it nails the woody, thick, round tone. The E string is clear and massive

I hope the cheap spray paint finish wears so it gets a nice worked in look


Thanks for reading through the thread everyone!
 
Some after thoughts

After plugging 2 pickup routes, I would probably have done the filler a little different. It's not bad, but could be better

I will start routing the neck pockets deeper on any bolt on builds, maybe .030 to .060" deeper. Most of my basses have the screws out of the saddles for the E and G, some have to bottom of the saddle filed off

With the pine body, it's light. Between the wood, dead strings, and the humbucker, it not a top end sound. But it nails the woody, thick, round tone. The E string is clear and massive

I hope the cheap spray paint finish wears so it gets a nice worked in look


Thanks for reading through the thread everyone!

Can you clarify what you mean by "Most of my basses have the screws out of the saddles for the E and G, some have to bottom of the saddle filed off"? Do you mean the saddles are as low as you can get them (i.e.: the screws are sticking out of the top) and you are filing the bottoms to get them lower? If so then you want to make the pocket shallower, not deeper.
 
Can you clarify what you mean by "Most of my basses have the screws out of the saddles for the E and G, some have to bottom of the saddle filed off"? Do you mean the saddles are as low as you can get them (i.e.: the screws are sticking out of the top) and you are filing the bottoms to get them lower? If so then you want to make the pocket shallower, not deeper.
Why yes, you are correct. Good thing I wasn't running the router yesterday!

But I absolutely despise shims, so for me that is not an option to lower the action
 
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Why yes, you are correct. Good thing I wasn't running the router yesterday!

But I absolutely despise shims, so for me that is not an option to lower the action
But shims work perfectly well. You could always make your own full contact shim if you don't wanna use the little slivers of whatever the way Fender does. I've never had an issue using a shim.
 
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But I've gotten so nifty with the file!!

Yup, Max is right. A slight angle change (I mean really slight) is all you need

It's WAY more work than a shim though

\/

The first guitar I made, I had no idea about shims and re-routed the floor of the neck pocket at an angle to get the neck aligned properly. If you really really don't want a shim, you could do that.
 
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