Weird wiring for a custom build!

[Mr123Clark]

Hello! Planning through a custom build to try and build the ultimate single bass for all my go to sounds - need some help figuring out all the wiring though!

The idea is to build in a Warmoth Jazzmaster Bass body and have 3 pickups: P, J, and Nordstrand Rickenbacker neck pickup above the P

For wiring, I would like to use the upper horn for just the Rick with separate volume / tone for the two roller pots and then a on/off switch for just that pickup

I would like to then run the PJ setup with a Volume knob, Blend knob, and a Tone knob in the section near the output

Third wiring situation would be a 3 way switch on the lower horn with it focused on just the PJ for series/parallel/and P solo

I'd love some assistance from y'all in your infinite wisdom in terms of how to wire this all up - particularly I would like to know how to set up the 3 way switch mentioned above, and where to place it in regards to the V/B/T setup.

Second question would be related as to where the Rick neck pickup could fit into the wiring. Is it possible to just attach the output of the Rick wiring and the output of the PJ wiring to the output jack?

Would love if someone could help me set up a wiring diagram!

 

[MidlifeBeginner]

Second question would be related as to where the Rick neck pickup could fit into the wiring. Is it possible to just attach the output of the Rick wiring and the output of the PJ wiring to the output jack?

I would basically treat the rick and PJ sections of wiring separate. Then, connect the output from both sections to the output jack in parallel. Finding wiring diagrams for each section separately shouldn't be hard.

Common layout for a jazzmaster body would put the 3-way switch on the lower horn. I like the way that looks, but you might prefer having it closer to the knobs.

 

[ctmullins]

Should work. Be aware that when both sides of the circuit are activated, with the volumes at equal levels, both tone controls will become master tone controls.

 

[Mr123Clark]

Should work. Be aware that when both sides of the circuit are activated, with the volumes at equal levels, both tone controls will become master tone controls.

So even with the rick and PJ hooked up right to the output the tone knobs would affect each other? Any way to prevent that?

 

[ctmullins]

So even with the rick and PJ hooked up right to the output the tone knobs would affect each other? Any way to prevent that?

Yes. You can

• Use isolating resistors, which will reduce output, or
• Use a buffer for each circuit, which requires a battery

Personally, I would go with buffers, as they bring other benefits as well - more clarity, less interaction with cable capacitance.

 

[Mr123Clark]

Yes. You can

• Use isolating resistors, which will reduce output, or
• Use a buffer for each circuit, which requires a battery

Personally, I would go with buffers, as they bring other benefits as well - more clarity, less interaction with cable capacitance.

Any chance you could help point me in the right direction in terms of adding buffers and what that would take?

 

[ctmullins]

Sure!

It looks like you're thinking of two circuits - one for the Nordstrand and the other for the P and J together.

You could use a separate buffer (for instance a Redeemer) for each circuit, and tie their outputs together and to the output jack.

Or you could use one of the single buffers that has two channels (like the Bartolini AGDB), which does the same but is more compact.

This diagram for the Bartolini illustrates the basic concept. The passive tone must be before the buffer to work like you're expecting. And instead of having a single bridge pickup, you would include a blend knob for the P and the J, and route the blend output into the AGDB.

 

[Mr123Clark]

Sure!

It looks like you're thinking of two circuits - one for the Nordstrand and the other for the P and J together.

You could use a separate buffer (for instance a Redeemer) for each circuit, and tie their outputs together and to the output jack.

Or you could use one of the single buffers that has two channels (like the Bartolini AGDB), which does the same but is more compact.

This diagram for the Bartolini illustrates the basic concept. The passive tone must be before the buffer to work like you're expecting. And instead of having a single bridge pickup, you would include a blend knob for the P and the J, and route the blend output into the AGDB.

Thanks for all the info ctmullins - thinking that the Bartolini might be the way to go here. Have you used one of these before? Just wondering how much it affects the passive tone of the pickups (I know it's a hot take but I just don't love active bass tones)

Also, would it be possible to use a volume push/pull to create an active/passive bypass for the buffer? Biggest fear is a dead 9v at a gig and no spares

 

[MidlifeBeginner]

A good buffer does no EQ to the signal. It should not even change the volume.

Active to passive switch is possible. It needs a bit of thought. You need two poles to bring the two circuits to the output. You also need to cut power to the buffer. So, I think that you need a triple pole double throw switch.

Back in passive mode, you again have that double tone control behavior.

Consider installing a battery holder that is quick to change the battery, and keep a couple batteries in your bag.

 

[ctmullins]

A good buffer does no EQ to the signal. It should not even change the volume.

Technically correct. But really, a good buffer does no EQ to the signal, while a passive circuit through a long cable does trim off some highs. So your ear will hear a clearer signal through the buffer.

Active to passive switch is possible. It needs a bit of thought. You need two poles to bring the two circuits to the output. You also need to cut power to the buffer. So, I think that you need a triple pole double throw switch.

The switch doesn't need to cut power to the buffer. It only needs to route the signal "around" the buffer.

Back in passive mode, you again have that double tone control behavior.

Consider installing a battery holder that is quick to change the battery, and keep a couple batteries in your bag.

Yes and yes!!

 

[MidlifeBeginner]

I think you either want to cut power to the buffer or cut the output of the buffer.

With power and open buffer inputs, you could be pushing noise. In practice might not be noticeable.

 

[Mr123Clark]

Does this wiring diagram work for using a Push/Pull pot to deactivate the buffer?

 

[MidlifeBeginner]

Yellow and orange must be kept separate when not switched to passive mode.

I think the below will work. This would leave pickup circuits wired to both the switch and the buffer input. This working assumes the buffer won't undesirably load the passive pickups. I suggest 500 kOhm pots to keep more highs in passive mode. 500 kOhm pots on two circuits in parellel will load like 250 kOhm on a single circuit.

Pickup circuit #1 1 2 Pickup circuit #2
Output jack 3 4 Output Jack (can do single wire to both terminals)
Buffer output #1 5 6 Buffer output #2

 

[ctmullins]

It’s actually much simpler than that.

 

[MidlifeBeginner]

We have to keep the pickup groups separate in active mode, or you have the behavior of double tone control they were trying to avoid.

 

[ctmullins]

We have to keep the pickup groups separate in active mode, or you have the behavior of double tone control they were trying to avoid.

Oh shoot. Forgot about that.

 

[MidlifeBeginner]

Maybe the solution is to attach a couple of these to the shoulder strap to keep batteries handy.

 

[Mr123Clark]

 

[Mr123Clark]

Is that what you were thinking in the photo above? Not sure how it'd work since no wires going back to the buffer ins

 

[MidlifeBeginner]

The wires to the buffer ins would also be connected to the pickups. No X's on the orange and yellow.