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What’s it take to get good B string performance?

What does it take for a good B string? (multiple votes allowed)

  • Witness points set

    Votes: 62 27.7%
  • Good set up

    Votes: 127 56.7%
  • Quality strings

    Votes: 106 47.3%
  • Contact core/exposed core strings

    Votes: 6 2.7%
  • The correct string gauge

    Votes: 72 32.1%
  • At least 35” scale length

    Votes: 33 14.7%
  • 36” or greater scale

    Votes: 11 4.9%
  • Wood quality factors

    Votes: 34 15.2%
  • Construction quality factors

    Votes: 124 55.4%
  • Something else

    Votes: 28 12.5%
  • All of the above

    Votes: 14 6.3%
  • None of the above, all 5ers are fine

    Votes: 2 0.9%

  • Total voters
    224
Basses tend to sound like the neck.

The quality of your B has mostly to do with the construction of the neck.

You can tell if a bass will have a good B if it has one when its NOT PLUGGED IN.
(Thats what we call a "clue")

Pickups, strings, pedals, etc wont give you a nice B if it didnt have it when it wasnt plugged in.

"Instruments with the best acoustic tone will have the best amplified tone".

 
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B strings have larger windings than the smaller strings, so there’s a lot more room for dirt, oil, skin, and other gack to accumulate along the length of the string. That accumulation is what makes strings sound “dead” as we say, since it has non-trivial impact on the string’s ability to vibrate freely.

B strings “die” more and faster than other strings. When you pick up a 5 string at the music store, there’s a good chance it’s been played by many hands before yours and the B is dead, or more dead than the other strings.

If you play flatwound strings, this is less an issue because the winding construct of those strings minimizes accumulation as I described. If you play roundwound strings, it might make sense to change them often if you can afford to or soak them in denatured alcohol for a day or two whenever they go dead. If you want, you could soak only the B.
 
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I don’t really need a 5 string but perennially interested….

Most every one I’ve picked up at the store had terrible B string performance. Problems like E strings have except worse. Clunky, clattering, poor intonation, maybe bad overtones or weak fundamental.

I’ve heard various opinions about how to avoid this. Scott Devine speaking with some luthiers on YouTube, they suggested it’s build quality and wood quality and some basses just don’t work well mysteriously. Didn’t think it was just a strings or scale length issue. I’ve heard many contradictory things here. What is it?

Poll for the democratic opinion.
It takes string height and pickup adjustment. Really nothing else.
 
I don’t really need a 5 string but perennially interested….

Most every one I’ve picked up at the store had terrible B string performance. Problems like E strings have except worse. Clunky, clattering, poor intonation, maybe bad overtones or weak fundamental.

I’ve heard various opinions about how to avoid this. Scott Devine speaking with some luthiers on YouTube, they suggested it’s build quality and wood quality and some basses just don’t work well mysteriously. Didn’t think it was just a strings or scale length issue. I’ve heard many contradictory things here. What is it?

Poll for the democratic opinion.
The only time I've picked up a bass with a low B I liked, it was either longer scale or multi-scale.
 
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I changed from four to five in the late 80's, and since then I played them exclusively, until a few years ago when under the influence of some strange compulsion, I bought a four-string Jazz which I play once in a while when the strange compulsion hits me, and after about thirty minutes, I remember why I way prefer five strings.

I can only relate my hands-on experience:

Yessir, that B is just going to feel floppy relative to the other four. It never kept me up nights. I'm sure the physics or geometry has some answer for this, but it is what it is, and the sooner I forgot about it and got on with it, it was never again an issue. Sure, some string sets or certain brands may feel tighter (or more loose), but I never found anything where all five felt the same. I've also always played 34", never spent any time with longer or fanned frets, so there is that gap in my knowledge of other formats.

I've owned two basses that were super in their definition of low C's, D's, most anywhere along that string: An Alembic Elan Five and a Squier Contemporary Active Jazz Five. In both cases, Ash body primarily and very hard maple necks. The Elan had a little more zing with an ebony fingerboard, the SCAJF all maple. I owned all three versions of Yamaha's BB5000, and they were a bit softer in their presentation with alder and mahogany. Sustain between the Alembic and Squier were about even, and in both cases you could hear the first several harmonics on low C's or D's as a grinding kind of beat in the note. One neckthrough, one bolt-on. So wood wise, I convinced harder/stiffer is better regardless of the particular woods or the construction for clarity.

Fives are VERY fussy about pickup heights on the E and B. A little off one way or the other, you got not much or it's overbearing. Once you have a string set you're going to stay with, when you install a new set (do NOT do this with strings with time on them, they will lie to you), you need to do a careful setup, listening to pickup height/tone once your relief/action is set, with your amp at several different volumes, and set for the best results. And no real gains in passive or active, it's just down to working with what you have.

And they are usually going to require more amp/cabinet. Pushing a lot of de-tuned low notes or playing 'down there' in regular tuning takes an 18-wheeler, not a HiLux pulling a dirt bike trailer, if you're going to compete in loud bands with not much PA. You really need to be in the 'Big Amp Turned Up to 3' club instead of flogging a 100 watt combo into a white foam. Plus, not enough amp just amplifies the problems a five or six can present amp wise vs. a four. If you're tooting along in D or E-flat, you don't want to have to call for backup. I'd also certainly suggest amps where you have pretty fine EQ control in the 50-300hz range in terms of tuning out the deep low end moan and you can isolate and boost around 100-200hz pretty finely. You'd be surprised how un-boomy what seemed like a hard to reign in bass can get if you can carefully fine-tune the deep end.

Totally objective, but these are the lessons I've learned living with these things for some 30-odd years.
 
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Should also mention playing technique.
I think my ham-fisted upright-informed right hand has made me extra fussy with low B bass guitars.
When I lighten my touch & let the amp do more of the work, it really seems to help me get a more satisfactory response from less exceptional low Bs.
Touch impacts the necessary sustain & growl every bit as much as materials & construction.
 
I think a lot of it is down to the construction of the instrument.
I've got a couple of Warwick 5-strings and their B string really works.
I had a Ric 5-string and tried someone else's and on both the B was a dull thud - major disappointment!
 
String length is so over-rated. I've now had two 30-inch scale basses with excellent B strings; On the high end an Atelier, on the low-end a Ibanez TMB35.

Both had wobble-free, piano-like B strings.

For best B string results, avoid low-tension round-core strings. Stick with thicker, hex-core strings for best results, regardless of string length.
 
I’ve owned a Sadowsky NYC 5, a Peavey Cirrus, an Ibanez Ergodyne, short scale 5ers from Atelier Z and Ibanez, and two different Dingwall NG3s.

The Dingwall has the only B-string I’ve never had to pamper. You can use it up and down the neck without having to worry about major shifts in timbre that normally “delegitimize” a B in a recording situation. Shifting possibilities open up as a result. In some cases, I find myself even opting to play notes on the B instead of the E. That has never been the case with any other bass.

Grand pianos vary scale length, and the paradigm of 34” was established before the invention of the 5-string. Conclusions ensue. Having recently compared 34” and 35” B strings of a boutique builder back-to-back, the physics start to work in your favor at 35” appreciably. But yes, compression, touch, and brightness can help the translation of any B.

I suspect that in 100 or 1000 years - when we’re all playing in Cantina Bands in a galaxy far, far away - that all frets will be fanned for this reason. (Proud owner of a ‘59 P.)
 
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I’m going to try not to blather on, because this is such a rabbit hole that I’ll write a novel..


But let me start with this- I had an Ibanez Mikro 5’er, which is a 28.3” scale. It had a great B string, with a cheap crummy bridge, the factory strings, the aforementioned scale length, and being a ~$200 bass new.


Now, was it a symphonic low B, both deep and tight, like my Roscoe? Not exactly, but was it a floppy, boomy mess that rattles and has no definition? NOPE, it was great! It matched the bass, and I don’t mean that the bass had a bad sound, so a bad B fit right in..


in other words, I find people sometimes want a tight Piano-like B string, but the rest of their bass isn’t tight or piano-like. They may want a deep, thunderous low b, the rest of their bass lacks all depth and thunder.


so blah blah blah, work with what the bass gives you, paired with understanding what you pull out of the instrument yourself, and what you’re trying to get out of a b string in the first place.



As far as string advice- try BOTH thinner AND thicker gauges, because it’s not always that thicker is better.


With a thicker B string that requires more tension to get up to pitch, it may be that a tighter string rattles and flops less.. BUT sometimes a thicker string rattles MORE because the extra weight gives more inertia on the rebound, so certain playing styles actually suffer from a bigger/tighter B. The other thing to consider is that, all things equal, a thicker string will have darker overtones (less harmonic content), and it can be the case that what you NEED is more overtones to define the sound and render some attack to the note.


On the flip side, a lighter string will have more harmonic content, sure, but the surprising part is that paradoxically a lighter gauge string will sometimes rattle less, because it requires less effort to pluck, so you can play with a lighter more controlled touch. BUT obviously a string with less tension can indeed flop and rattle more as most people expect..


So, obviously, not only does your personal technique and play style and genre effect how you would want to approach string choice, but the position and voicing of the pickups can also be such that you need the lighter string for more harmonic content, OR you may need the thicker string because there is too much harmonic content washing out the fundamental/low overtones, leaving it nasal or strange wolf-tone sounding.



And the last thing to touch on, but probably the first thing to think about, is what you want out of a 5 string / low string, or how you’ll use it. If what you want out of it is big fat low notes, it may inform your string choice, as well as render some basses/pickups/positions less than optimal.


Similarly, if you are maybe a jazz or chamber music kinda guy, and rather than humongous low notes, what you need is an even response and the option to play across strings for runs or play chord voicings, you may choose xyz.



Get what I’m saying? A clear understanding of your goals, how a particular base relates to it, what that base can offer to a B string in the first place, etc etc all matter.



Now for the crappy part- some basses just won’t do what you need/want.. some bases, like fenders, have a ton of R&D and tradition around the 4 string version of an instrument, and if the five isn’t afterthought, it’s not always guaranteed that it will be incredibly versatile, or even a sparkling addition to an instrument.. for a lot of people, a five string precision bass isn’t going to do what they want.. I personally like the sound in its own character, but I don’t tend to find that it’s an amazing fat sound whatsoever, just as an example. Oddly, of the basses I’ve played a lot, fenders tended to not wow me as five strings in general.. a good, five string jazz is a fantastic instrument, but like a lot of things fender, sometimes an instrument just doesn’t seem to be a ‘good one,’ and I frankly don’t have a great theory for exactly why that is, because I’ve played some well set up five string jazzes that just don’t seem to get it done, whereas when it works, a good jazz 5’er is probably top-3 instrument.



Back to the OP, I think a lot of things have to be right- you’ve got to find the strings that work for you, you’ve got to know what you want and you have to work on finding what a bass CAN offer, and whether your goals align with it.


But fundamentally, I absolutely rebuke the assertion that you must have a 35” scale or longer for a low B. It CAN help to get a CERTAIN kind of B, but it’s not a fundamental requirement, even for a tight and versatile B. I think pickup position and a good neck/design have WAY more to do with a B string’s successful integration into a playable instrument.
 
Scott Devine speaking with some luthiers on YouTube, they suggested it’s build quality and wood quality and some basses just don’t work well mysteriously.

The first 5 I ever owned was a Suhr-era Fender AmDlx J5. There was just something about it that bever felt right when playing. I then got a G&L L-2500 which felt just fine. I asked my repair guy what was the difference between the two and he told me as far as setup and strings…nothing. But he agreed they felt very different to play.

Since then I've gone through many others. Reverend Rumblefish R5L (should have kept it, really great neck), Carvin B5 fretless (good but not a keeper), Guild Pilot 5 (meh), Fender AmStd P5 (very nice), NS Radius CR5 (the best so far, also the most expensive by far), Fender AmStd J5 (same neck as the P5, feels the same to play except for the heavier body).
 
It's a combination of factors. For me the design and construction of the instrument is #1. I used to think 35" scale was the most important, but I've played a number of 34" scale basses that have great B string response. A good mitigating factor if the B is not stellar is to have the right strings - I find GHS Contact Core Super Steels to almost always work better than anything else I've ever tried - gauges can vary from .125 to .129 or .130 depending on the bass.
The best possible scenario for me in terms of the low B is that it is balanced with the other strings output wise and that all notes are as "true" as the notes on the adjacent strings.
 
String length is so over-rated. I've now had two 30-inch scale basses with excellent B strings; On the high end an Atelier, on the low-end a Ibanez TMB35.

Both had wobble-free, piano-like B strings.

For best B string results, avoid low-tension round-core strings. Stick with thicker, hex-core strings for best results, regardless of string length.

Hmm...

I much prefer, on my 35" Lakland, DR Fatbeams (round core and relatively thin).

I can not stand the bell tones thicker rigid B strings produce going up the neck.

Different strokes.
 
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What about a five string P?
Mine has a better B than my Stingray 5!

Plus, there are plenty of basses with both of those two things that still have bad B strings.
Just adding my criteria to the list of missing poll options. :cool:
I like the solo'd neck pickup at least as much as the next guy. But when it comes to that low B range, I have found that adding bridge pickup helps every single time - even on my Dingwall Afterburner.
More power to anyone fully contented with their 5-string P. (I might be handicapping myself with my unsubtle technique - and bandmates.)
 
Just adding my criteria to the list of missing poll options. :cool:
I like the solo'd neck pickup at least as much as the next guy. But when it comes to that low B range, I have found that adding bridge pickup helps every single time - even on my Dingwall Afterburner.
More power to anyone fully contented with their 5-string P. (I might be handicapping myself with my unsubtle technique - and bandmates.)
I agree with this, even as an unabashed lover of the soloed P.

I think the added bridge pickup, which I can't stand soloed, tempers the boomy nature of the B string and adds definition.
 
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