What’s it take to get good B string performance?

[Doug4321]

I don’t really need a 5 string but perennially interested….

Most every one I’ve picked up at the store had terrible B string performance. Problems like E strings have except worse. Clunky, clattering, poor intonation, maybe bad overtones or weak fundamental.

I’ve heard various opinions about how to avoid this. Scott Devine speaking with some luthiers on YouTube, they suggested it’s build quality and wood quality and some basses just don’t work well mysteriously. Didn’t think it was just a strings or scale length issue. I’ve heard many contradictory things here. What is it?

Poll for the democratic opinion.

 

[Jefenator]

• Bridge pickup
• Sustain

 

[Geri O]

A bass on display at a music store is probably the very worst place to check out the quality of the B string on a bass, or any other qualities of that bass.

You need to play a bass (any bass, really) that’s been properly set up by a pro guitar guy.

 

[TrustRod]

It's technique.

After that it's thinner strings than most people use.

 

[StayLow]

Clunky, clattering, poor intonation, maybe bad overtones or weak fundamental.

Those are setup issues, for which strings actor, and also as noted in the post immediately above; technique.

I do prefer an exposed core B, but seldom use one. No need for longer than 34” scale.

 

[Yahboy]

Charvel Pro Mod pj V are good answer for 34 scale bass that has crisp solid B tone.

Pro-Mod San Dimas® Bass PJ V, Caramelized Maple Fingerboard, Platinum Pearl



and, tapered B string do help too.

 

[mikeswals]

Begs the question...

What store did you go to?

 

[Naigewron]

Begs the question...

What store did you go to?

I'm surprised he found a physical store with a 5-string in the shop at all

 

[baxter_x]

Good construction, wood selection, good electronic.
My Sadowsky modern 5 has by far the best B string I have ever played.

 

[pepj]

When I started looking many years ago the B string was the main issue by far.
Its still a factor, and some basses just can't do it, but if you are handy with set up, you might be ok.

Way too many basses out of a shop are basically sold with the shipping set up, which imv, is pretty poor playwise, but its understandable why they do it.

Having visited many shops and played quite a few recently, from recall, only 2 gave me any hope. So, from the shop to purchase, you are taking a punt. And this was up to $3.5k basses.

My tip for the best budget bass is a user Xotic xj pro or a Bass Mods for around $1k to 1.2k is you shop well.

 

[cfortner]

In my experience it is often a H-string twisted in itself. If you avoid twisting the string at setup, you'll have the basis of a good sounding H-string. Some other points like quality of string and neck and bridge will make a difference too.

 

[r_bnks]

Setup

 

[Zooberwerx]

I voted the first 3 (witness points / string install, set-up, quality strings) as those are the components where I have some level of control. Same holds true for any end-user.

Riis

 

[Geogio]

I use a 6, hex core, dual trussed, 36, DC45 EMG with their 18v BQS, properly set up, half-rounds, the B sounds great. I was going for a Ken Smith 6 vibe, and I'm real close with money left over.

 

[spade2you]

I'd agree that most shop 5+ string basses sound a little weak in the low B department. A second "problem" was that Nu Metal was becoming popular when I started out. The detuning only increased the flop factor. I basically thought there was little point in the low B string based on my first hand experience.

My opinions changed once I bought a Peavey Cirrus 5. This made me think 35" scale was the only way. I lusted for a Dingwall because he took it even further! My first custom shop basses were all 35" scale. My Rob Allen and Conklin both had massive B strings. Eventually I was able to play a local TB member's Curbow basses, which had equally massive B strings at 34" scale. Witness angles and a Rockwood neck? I eventually bought a 32" scale Cliff Bordwell bass, which has a great B string!

Scale length, good strings, and a setup can help. Neck rigidity can also get great results.

 

[FunkHead]

You'll get a million answers here. The only advice I can give is try different strings and get good at performing setups.

My 3 favorite strings for a solid B are, DR Fat Beams, D'Addario Chromes & Sadowsky .125" Tapered B.

 

[DrBnz]

Ew.... you didn't just "GO THERE" did you?????!!! I've had a love / hate relationship with the "B" for years. Based on my experience (I've owned 6). I've developed these beliefs - none of which have as basis of fact.
- My issue is muddy sounding B - I often can't tell what note I just played
- Compression added from the pedal board can make them tolerable
- Speaking of which - a light touch does help some. Ya can't reach over and thwack it one. It'll sound like ... a "B" string
- A note played on an "E" typically has better sound quality than the same note played on a "B"
- Fender P bass has the worse "B" string ever
- Fender J bass has the 2nd worst "B"
- Its not the neck length - its the type of pups - at least OEM pups
- EBMM special has a great B (at 34") right out of the box (different type of pups)
- G&L L2500 sound good with round wounds - I didn't enjoy the (Ti) flats on it
- String type doesn't matter a whole lot
- An Ibanez EHB1506MS has an excellent "B". It happens to be 35" scale - totally different pups though - half the cost of the others.
- Facts are, if you get a bigger cab and more pedals it'll sound just fine.
- If you're listening thru headphones, it'll never sound great.
- If you're old - you can't hear those frequencies anyways!!!!

Just sayin....

 

[groooooove]

i really do think it's just a measure of the quality of the build.

bad B strings can happen for a few reasons, but nothing in particular.

lots of 33" scale basses have perfect B strings, so that ain't it. though, 35" does have a particular effect on the low string that is really nice.

 

[Dynacord]

Voted for good set-up - including getting pickup height right.

 

[Dincrest]

I think setup and overall construction make a difference, especially around the neck joint and overall neck construction.

It's like with a convertible. You can't just chop the roof off a car and boom, instant open air cruising. You need to beef up the structural integrity in so many other places or the car's body will be flexy and structurally unsound.

That's why even upper end 5-strings back in the 90s were a roll of the dice, because companies were still figuring out how to best build them. It's more than just widening a neck and slapping an extra string on.

Nowadays, extended range basses are fairly common, so you can get a well-made, nicely appointed 5-string with a solid low B at a workingman's price. Something like the ESP/LTD D-5 has a killer low-B for a 34" scale bass under $1000. Put strings like DR Lo-Riders on it, and it hits like a runaway truck.

And even with strings, some basses work better with some than others. A lot of people think a stiff string like a DR Lo-Rider will result in a tighter B, especially on a 34" scale bass. Others might say a more flexible string like a DR Hi-Beam allows the B to resonate more. So that's trial and error.

But, yeah, I would say overall construction of the bass and a good setup is what makes or breaks an extended range bass.