What do I gain (or lose) going to lighter strings?

[W_R]

After experimenting with gauges, shifting sets (different types and gauges) around among instruments, and a few balanced tension iterations, it simply depends…

If you do experiment with a lighter gauge, I’ll suggest for you to spend a good amount time with your “new gauge”. Iterate a bunch on the instrument set up, allow yourself to adjust to the new sound and feel, break the strings in, and leave time to make all the other signal chain adjustments that you might get into (EQ on the bass, amp, etc). The combination of all that can make a massive range of difference, from awful to awesome.

Among my small handful of inexpensive J and PJ basses, similar dimensions and such, they’ve each been unique within a range of gauges and how they set up, and my immediate impression of the change has usually been quite different than later after things are more settled in. And even when sorted out, I’m still tinkering with basically all of them in kind of a rotation. I do enjoy having good string to string balance—could sometimes mean adjusting 1 string (bump up the lowest string) or 2 strings (a size thinner on the middle 2)… not always a whole set, feel/sound isn’t always perfectly in line with gauge or tension #’s.

Try stuff, enjoy the journey!

 

[Relayer71]

I feel it's not so much that different gauges differ in sound but that string thickness and tension can affect HOW you pluck/pick and that, in turn, will affect the sound to a degree.

So if you're one of those aggressive pluckers due to having heavy gauge strings and switch to lighter strings, you may naturally lighten your attack since the strings are easier to play and then think the strings are lacking "punch". You may not even realize you've adjusted your playing slightly.

Does that make sense? This has been Relayer71 and that's my take on it. On the next episode: Does finger thickness affect tone.

 

[Inverstone]

S.I.T. light gauge short scale Powerwounds (nickel r.wounds) have been very close in feel and sound to their mediums (and that's on a short scale six). More playing ease and bending (not real easy bends) yet extremely close to heavier strings in tone and feel. D'Addario and Fender strings were MUCH looser, squiggly than the S.I.T.s. Been using Powerwounds for 15+ years. In my case, no truss rod adjustment was needed switching from mediums to lights.
As tendonitis flairs with aging, I may have to eventually go with more squiggly...

 

[Bass-ball]

For me, the lighter the better. That said, I've never noticed a difference in tone or punch or whatever word you want to use when using one or the other in a mix, so I've just stuck with light gauge strings, since they seem easier to play.

 

[micguy]

You can also get playability issues from going lighter. Lighter gauge strings will be naturally more pliable, and that means variation in fretting pressure will be more likely to put you out of tune.

If you're fretting hard enough to pull a 40-95 set audibly out of tune, you REALLY need to work on your technique. This isn't a practical issue.

 

[Discount Bassy]

I used to play the bottom 4 strings from a roundwound 5 string set on a 4...tune EADG. E was usually a 0.130". The strings were tight and felt like railroad tracks. The truss rod was busy and the action was very low. It was my normal for a few years. Before entirely transitioning to 5+ string basses, I dropped the string thickness on the 4 to something lighter (0.040"-0.090"). The differences I immediately noticed were that it was a lot less work to play and I was notably quicker with both hands...also, over time, less calluses with more playing. No notable difference in tone other than the crazy heavy strings were wildly zingy for a day or two before settling in. Light touch = good.

 

[jdjk7]

If you're fretting hard enough to pull a 40-95 set audibly out of tune, you REALLY need to work on your technique. This isn't a practical issue.

That's why I said, "this can probably be corrected with technique". But just because it's a technique issue doesn't mean the technique is what needs to be corrected. It's like arguing against using dampeners when you can just palm mute... You can, but the mechanical qualities of the instruments you use will always affect the sounds you can make with them, and how those sounds are made. Making choices about how your equipment influences you, as well as how you challenge the limits of the equipment, is part of being an artist.

Not everybody needs to or wants to play with a feather light touch. And if you do, that's okay. But if that's not the case, lighter gauge strings may not be for you.

I have experience playing sets with everything from a .095 low E to .110 low E, and what I have shared here matches my experience with all those strings. I'm comfortable on pretty much anything, but the fact that I had to change my technique for what I was playing is important information to someone who doesn't have that experience.

And yes... It can be a practical issue, depending on what strings you're coming from, what strings you're going to, and how sensitive you are/attentive of your technique.

 

[micguy]

Not everybody needs to or wants to play with a feather light touch.

You don't need to play with a "feather light touch" to play light strings. To pull even 40-95 gauge string out of tune (I just tried that on my bass here) you're clamping the hell out of the strings - you simply won't be able to play anything well if you're clamping that hard.

There are a lot of good reasons you might want to play heavier strings. This just isn't one of them.

 

[WillyW]

I use 40-95's for roundwounds, and the knobs on my amp rotate from 1-10 so I don't lose anything.

 

[DrThumpenstein]

I use 40-95's for roundwounds, and the knobs on my amp rotate from 1-10 so I don't lose anything.

 

[MYLOWFREQ]

You'd lose some weight for sure

It depends on the strings I guess but talking about the same brand of strings, I used to use a 40-100 gauge set. I liked it because I like slapping and the G string sounded great, but the E string didn't have enough beef. Then I tried 50-110, and I got the opposite result. I find 45-105 gauge a happy medium.

But again, one brand's 40 could be another brand's 50 regarding the sound.

 

[WillyW]

 

[Plain Old Barry]

I've never not been able to get the same tone from the SAME STRING in different gauges, but it's definitely worth trying out to find your individual preferred feel and attack, as well as works best with your preferred setup. I capitalized SAME STRING, because changing gauges while also changing brands or versions adds more variables than gauge. Some like whisper close action, others high, etc... The perfect setup and string is what works for the individual player.

Remember, a different gauge will probably need a full setup, including pickup distance from the strings, not simply intonation. Most published setup measurements are simply starting points.

I know I'm referencing guitarists, but Billy Gibbons and BB King both play(ed) extremely light strings. Have we all noticed how thin they sound?

 

[kesslari]

have you been thinking of anything in particular?

I like Pressurewounds. Going to stick with those, lighter guage.

 

[JRA]

got it --- i hope you have a great playing experience! good luck, @kesslari!

 

[JazznFunk]

The loss/gain tonally is negligible, and it's nothing which can't be 'regained' with an adjustment or 2 on the amp or preamp. FEEL is the more deciding factor. Most all of my basses wear light gauge strings, regardless of the type of string. BUT - there are a few exceptions (taking into account neck thickness, string spacing, fingerboard radius, etc.) where medium gauge strings feel better overall on that particular bass than lights might. So I first decide what string type I like the most (nickel rounds, round core for the most part) and then match the gauge to the bass which feels best. Tone isn't something I even think of when it comes to gauge. I feel like light gauge strings give you more dynamic control overall, but that's because I prefer a light touch anyway.

 

[JazznFunk]

I used to believe that heavier gauges meant a bigger sound. Probably a lesson left over from my upright bass days. But pickups don’t sense string gauge.

Even that is questionable on the upright side of things. Depends on the bass. Some basses 'come alive' with higher tension strings.... some choke and lose volume. Synthetic core 'mediums' on upright always seem to hit the sweet spot for me, and they feel significantly softer vs a steel core of the same gauge, whereas anything with a steel core has to be light gauge.... both for the bass to speak and to not rip my fingers to shreds.

 

[Jack Butler]

I use 40-95 cobalt flats and feel I sacrifice nothing, and I've tried a ton of strings. My second choice is TI Jazz flats, also low tension. I agree the big strings/better tone thing is a complete myth. Same with regular guitar. While SRV is legendary for his use of 13's, Billy Gibbons has a killer tone and uses 7's, sometimes tuned down!

 

[Jack Butler]

One question to ask here is how light is too light? At some point the strings will become guitar strings so is there a threshold of lightness that ceases to be bass and becomes baritone?

I agree, TI Jazz Flats(43-100) or Cobalt flats are just right for me. Any lighter is just too light for me as far as feel. I played a friend's bass that had I think a 35-85 set and it was flat out too light for me.

 

[BarfanyShart]

Personally, my right hand likes heavy gauges - it feels easier to play faster, with better intonation, precision, and clarity. On the other hand (Ha!), my left hand likes lighter gauges, because it's just easier to stop notes, less pain and fatigue after playing. So, I think of it like a compromise to find a gauge that makes both hands work best together. I generally start out loving to play heavier gauges, and then move incrementally lighter over time to find a better balance.