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Feel, weight, playability? That doesnt take into account an audience. Maybe my generation considers having a great live bass an essential need for a workhorse bass. Am i delusional?
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Find a P-bass (or even a FSO from a reputable brand) that's comfortable for you to play and you're done. I can't think of anything more professional than bringing a bass that makes the Sound/Recording Engineer breathe a sigh of relief on sight.Mostly a bedroom player here, but realized recently that I have two pretty solid basses and don't know which to bring if the need arises. Either one would work, but I felt the need to get a real reliable, fit-the-bill, look and sound professional workhorse bass.
No doubt, and while I never broke a snap cap, I did keep up with my battery change dates and would swap out every six months. Given I was keeping up, I would make a point to do my battery changes at home within a few days of the six months change date so if anything happened I had everything at hand to fix it. That said, there were times when I would brain fart and wind up needing to change out a battery away from home but I was lucky enough to not break the tab.I'm in more in agreement with the original sentiment - indeed, I also mentioned it in my previous post.
I've no issue with active basses as a workhorse — my main gigging bass for years was an active Warwick Thumb. My concern is reliability, especially with 9V battery clips. I've had terminals snap in stompboxes and the aforementioned bass whilst swapping the battery, which is the last thing you want when you've only brought one instrument to a gig.
If I could still buy a new Mississippi made Dyna, I don't think I would have ever owned a Fender.80s US Peaveys have always been my prototype workhorse basses.
Sounds and plays great. Built like a tank. Pre-dinged and dented so no stress. Got the cool vibes of a vintage US made bass that's rocked a lot of stages. If it gets stolen I won't be heartbroken. It's got character and just works every time.
I must be the exception that proves the rule. I played this a few times in a roots rock trio!I feel like most of the options are trolling. I chose playability, but would also add reliability. A good work horse does the job and endures the hardships. Doesn't really matter how old or new or the brand.
Not horse-spesific: looks play into it to a degree - a good work HORSE can look like Carrot Top, don't matter none if the field gets plowed - most players will probably not play a roots gig with a bat-shaped battleaxe, no matter how good it plays.
:You're not going to take a 6 string active to a punk gig
I've got five basses with a great live sound, but they aren't all workhorses. Jack casadys sound awesome but it's the last bass I would drag to the clubFeel, weight, playability? That doesnt take into account an audience. Maybe my generation considers having a great live bass an essential need for a workhorse bass. Am i delusional?
I shouldve said its those three things AND it should look good.I've got five basses with a great live sound, but they aren't all workhorses. Jack casadys sound awesome but it's the last bass I would drag to the club
Why is that? Sometimes it's the perfect bass for the right gig.I've got five basses with a great live sound, but they aren't all workhorses. Jack casadys sound awesome but it's the last bass I would drag to the club
It won't stay in tune!! As soon as the neck starts to warm up from playing, the relief decreases and the strings start to go sharp. I haven't had the truss rod cover on in years due to constant tweaks. It goes sharp way, way worse than my aluminum-necked bass. I'm never buying a bass with a mahogany neck ever againWhy is that? Sometimes it's the perfect bass for the right gig.
Ah, I can see that being an issue. I've not had any issues with mine since I bought it in 2017, and I've played a lot of gigs with it. That said, I am constantly fine-tuning any bass I play throughout a gig, so it doesn't bother me at all if I make micro-adjustments as I go. That's a studio habit (tune before and after every take), and I use my JC in the studio a lot, too. But my JC is pretty solid. I hardly have to adjust the neck, and I'm not shy about adjusting necks as often as they need it.It won't stay in tune!! As soon as the neck starts to warm up from playing, the relief decreases and the strings start to go sharp. I haven't had the truss rod cover on in years due to constant tweaks. It goes sharp way, way worse than my aluminum-necked bass. I'm never buying a bass with a mahogany neck ever again