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What makes a bass an eligible workhorse?

It can't be a workhorse unless:

  • Upper tier of the brand's offerings.

    Votes: 0 0.0%
  • Price correlates to quality. Go big.

    Votes: 1 0.4%
  • Well-established history (artists, recordings) proving it's capabilities

    Votes: 12 5.2%
  • The feel, the weight, the playability

    Votes: 184 80.0%
  • Right sound - versatility for any need

    Votes: 142 61.7%
  • Right sound- P or J are never the wrong choice

    Votes: 47 20.4%
  • Functions more or less like a bass guitar, eh

    Votes: 51 22.2%
  • Recognizable, has credibility

    Votes: 6 2.6%
  • Country of origin

    Votes: 2 0.9%
  • Edible. Tastes like carrots.

    Votes: 20 8.7%
  • Visuals - states exactly who you are and what music you'll play with it

    Votes: 8 3.5%
  • Visuals - hardly noticeable, fits any gig

    Votes: 32 13.9%
  • Modification potential to always be what you need it to be

    Votes: 28 12.2%

  • Total voters
    230
Ah, I can see that being an issue. I've not had any issues with mine since I bought it in 2017, and I've played a lot of gigs with it. That said, I am constantly fine-tuning any bass I play throughout a gig, so it doesn't bother me at all if I make micro-adjustments as I go. That's a studio habit (tune before and after every take), and I use my JC in the studio a lot, too. But my JC is pretty solid. I hardly have to adjust the neck, and I'm not shy about adjusting necks as often as they need it.
I'm not shy about using the truss rod either, but my Jack takes a quarter turn either direction every two days or so. I'm hoping it settles down over time because I can't really use it for much besides recording. I can tune it for a set runthrough, it'll go sharp and the action will drop a bit a song and a half in, retune, let it sit while I grab coffee or whatever, and it'll be flat and high to start the set. And both of the groups I play in are too rapidfire for tuning between songs
 
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I'm not shy about using the truss rod either, but my Jack takes a quarter turn either direction every two days or so. I'm hoping it settles down over time because I can't really use it for much besides recording. I can tune it for a set runthrough, it'll go sharp and the action will drop a bit a song and a half in, retune, let it sit while I grab coffee or whatever, and it'll be flat and high to start the set. And both of the groups I play in are too rapidfire for tuning between songs
I hope it settles out for you. That's a bummer. It's a great bass when it works!
 
Hmmm...

Clydesdales - Highly visual, pretty, some flair, majestic. Rarely seen on the farms doing the work. These are your Smiths, Foderas, custom boutiques with gorgeous woods out front and proud. Nice leather straps selected to match the wood.

Percherons - Big, black, muscular, beautiful, sometimes fierce looking. They can move a lot of weight. This is your P bass in whatever flavor you like.

Belgians - Ahh...the true workhorse on the farms. Day in day out moving the rocks, trees, ploughs. Really the only breed I spent extended time with, but I call these the Jazz basses. More versatile than the P basses and based on the 4 Belgians I grew up with, each has its own personality.

From the poll, I chose "The feel, the weight, the playability" and "Right sound - versatility for any need". The one option I would've selected if it was on the list, is "Enjoyability to me". I have two custom basses that are more like Clydesdales. I get no joy from Fender shaped objects even though many do. Enjoyability makes me want to pick it up and play.
 
The visuals are only important if they are extreme. I used to get lots of dirty looks bringing my Steinberger on blues gigs, so I went back to bringing Ps or Js but continued using the Steinberger for my other gigs.

Trouz Bras Icons fest.jpg
 

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I would just say "doesn't annoy me in any way".

There can't be anything distracting about the sound, feel, looks, or anything else. If one string is quieter than the rest, notes can't be heard, there's a dead spot, lower frets feel like a stretch, plucking hand is in a weird position, balance is off, it's too heavy, notes can't be sufficiently spread out or focused by plucking position alone, tone is too "unique" and can't be generic when desired, and any other way in which the instrument draws my attention to itself rather than freeing me up to think about the music. All of that will disqualify a bass from workhorse status.
 
All my basses have been workhorses. That's the aim when I buy them.

I try to sound like me. I don't use pedals, so all the tone comes from me and the bass. I buy the best bass I can find and use it until a better one comes along. My turnover is glacial.

Since 1969 my #1 basses have been a Fender Precision, Wal Custom 5 mk3, US Lakland 55-94, Mike Lull PJ5 and Sadowsky RV5.
 
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Hmmm...

Clydesdales - Highly visual, pretty, some flair, majestic. Rarely seen on the farms doing the work. These are your Smiths, Foderas, custom boutiques with gorgeous woods out front and proud. Nice leather straps selected to match the wood.

Percherons - Big, black, muscular, beautiful, sometimes fierce looking. They can move a lot of weight. This is your P bass in whatever flavor you like.

Belgians - Ahh...the true workhorse on the farms. Day in day out moving the rocks, trees, ploughs. Really the only breed I spent extended time with, but I call these the Jazz basses. More versatile than the P basses and based on the 4 Belgians I grew up with, each has its own personality.

From the poll, I chose "The feel, the weight, the playability" and "Right sound - versatility for any need". The one option I would've selected if it was on the list, is "Enjoyability to me". I have two custom basses that are more like Clydesdales. I get no joy from Fender shaped objects even though many do. Enjoyability makes me want to pick it up and play.
I suspect my old P bass is an old sway back mule...
But I love him. 🄰
 
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