What makes a bass an eligible workhorse?

[Bassaga]

Mostly a bedroom player here, but realized recently that I have two pretty solid basses and don't know which to bring if the need arises. Either one would work, but I felt the need to get a real reliable, fit-the-bill, look and sound professional workhorse bass.

Picked out a goal, then realized I felt a weird aversion to "lesser" basses because, come on, they couldn't be my workhorse. Then started questioning the one I'd picked because maybe it wouldn't do the job. Boy, I'd better be sure and get a Fender American. But that's too obvious, it's like I'm not even trying; I've gotta go a little outside the box if I want to be taken seriously! ... by all the people around here who can tell the difference between a humbucker and an output jack.

I've gone way too deep and thought way too much. Deep down, I know I could gig for decades with a decent Affinity if I wanted to. Thought I'd ask all y'all in the hopes of rebooting my paradigm here. What do you see as being required of a bass before it has the potential to become a "workhorse"?

 

[Phe]

I feel like most of the options are trolling. I chose playability, but would also add reliability. A good work horse does the job and endures the hardships. Doesn't really matter how old or new or the brand.
Not horse-spesific: looks play into it to a degree - a good work HORSE can look like Carrot Top, don't matter none if the field gets plowed - most players will probably not play a roots gig with a bat-shaped battleaxe, no matter how good it plays.

 

[kesslari]

You enjoy playing it, you can gig on it and make it work in the variety of styles that you play.
It's that simple, to me.

 

[fhtagn]

Playability, reliability and tone. Everything else comes after those.

 

[Doctor Morbius]

Several of those reasons and perhaps one doesn't mind banging it around a bit whilst putting some miles on it.

 

[Geepers]

It has to be 18 hands high and weigh 1800 pounds.

 

[Bassaga]

would also add reliability

I really wanted to add that because it's obviously essential, but realistically they're all blocks of wood bolted together with some internal wiring. I've never picked up a bass that didn't feel like it could get smashed on the floor a few times and still do it's job afterwards.

I guess neck stability and decent hardware would count as increasing reliability, though. Maybe I should've included it.

 

[Phe]

I really wanted to add that because it's obviously essential, but realistically they're all blocks of wood bolted together with some internal wiring. I've never picked up a bass that didn't feel like it could get smashed on the floor a few times and still do it's job afterwards.

I guess neck stability and decent hardware would count as increasing reliability, though. Maybe I should've included it.

Of course you can make any (or most) of them reliable, but some are shoddy from the get go, flimsy electronics and tuners made out of second grade pot iron and such.

 

[iTzPrime]

- is it easy to play
- is it reliable (tuning, intonation, truss rod - also easy to adjust)
- is it versatile and appropriate for what you are doing (i.E if you play Gospel a 5 string is often needed, if you play Metal a downtuned etc)
- is it comfortable (i.E I have a P bass that is super heavy, but perfectly fine for recording and it is my recording workhorse bass)
- does it sound good

price, recognizablity, country of origin, visuals (unless it is something like a BC Rich) don't really matter.

 

[ardgedee]

You enjoy playing it, you can gig on it and make it work in the variety of styles that you play.
It's that simple, to me.

This, and I would add stability and reliability (does not require more than a rudimentary "all's well" once-over every day, tuning does not drift, electronics do not cut out). I'm not a gigging musician but if I was I would have the same expectations that I do from equipment that I rely on for any other job: Sketchy hardware gets replaced quickly.

 

[Nebadon2000]

A couple quotes that that IME have found true

"Purchasing higher-priced, high-quality products can be a wise investment, especially when they are used frequently or for professional work."

• "Pride and satisfaction: For some, owning high-quality tools or items brings greater personal satisfaction and enhances their enjoyment of their work or hobbies. "

 

[Dust2Dust]

I know I could gig for decades with a decent Affinity if I wanted to.

I'd better be sure and get a Fender American. But that's too obvious, it's like I'm not even trying; I've gotta go a little outside the box if I want to be taken seriously!

For the love of God, breathe bro

Perhaps you would get a thread full of answers that would guide your decision-making process better if you post another thread called, "Show Me Your Workhorse".

These fine folks will show you what they got, and anybody that has modded theirs will tell you what they did and why they did it.


I'd like to see a thread like that myself, actually


Edit: Just some extra info to toss in here. I'm a Squier fanboy. I'm in two Squier Bass Facebook groups. Those guys post videos of themselves gigging with Affinitys all the time. (Just as much as CVs and VMs)

 

[Deleted member 271037]

I have four requirements for a workhorse bass, and most of them weren't in the poll.

In no particular order (all four requirements MUST be fulfilled):


-Must be an overall good quality bass and a model/manufacturer with a good track record and a reputation for good QC.

-Must not be very expensive or rare/irreplaceable (in case it gets stolen, thrashed during a flight, etc.).

-Must have a vintage voiced, vintage output alnico P-bass split coil.

-Must be passive (or have a passive mode that works without a battery) and have a passive tone control.


From currently available NEW basses this would be a Yamaha BB434 for me. Or if I wanted something less expensive, maybe a Sire P5.

But I'm in Europe where a BB434 costs twice as much as in the US and twice as much as a P5 (and it's STILL great value).

If I lived in the US (where the BB434 sells for almost half the price compared to Europe) I would definitely choose the BB. I'm actually shocked by how cheap BBs are in the US. At their current US prices they must surely be the best value basses EVER. I mean, you can get a bass that's good enough for a life time professional career for less than $600. That's utterly insane!

And don't get me started on the BBP34... At it's US prices I might even consider that one as a "workhorse" bass, and now we're talking about an instrument of custom shop/boutique quality. I honestly don't understand why Yamaha BBs aren't FAR more popular in the US. They're practically GIVING them away.

 

[micguy]

If it inspires you to play enough that you will actually practice, it's a great bass - practice is what makes the player and the bass sound great.

The physical part of the bass that is most important is the neck - if it's straight, free from dead spots, and has a shape that your fretting hand can work with, everything else physical about the bass can be change relatively easily in most cases.

 

[ga_edwards]

It depends on one's definitition of 'workhorse', but for me it means: Comfortable, versatile, reliable and classic looks.

Almost any bass can be made 'playable' with a decent fret level and setup. But being comfortable is more important to me. If it doesn't balance, or the neck shape feels weird, or it's too heavy, than I won't gravitate towards it.

Versatility goes without saying for a workhorse, and I feel a jazz type bass with two pickups works well in this regard.

A workhorse has to be reliable and easy to maintain. It needs to be able to stand up to the rigours of regular playing, and gigging, whether that's touring or the local pub. I'd even go as far as to say passive. It's a lot easier to troubleshoot and maintain a simple passive bass when there's less to go wrong.

Classic looks will always be on point. A FSO will fit with a hardcore metal band through to country and RnB.

 

[JakobT]

Workhorses are so named because they’re solid, dependable, and get the job done. If a bass fulfils these conditions, it’s a workhorse bass, regardless of price or pedigree.

 

[el murdoque]

In my book, a workhorse bass 0% fancy stuff and 100% bread and butter.

THE workhorse would be an American Fender P bass.

American, you ask? Why not a Mexican or a Japanese? Even the Squiers are really good nowadays.
Yes, all that, I reply. But some people listen with their eyes.

My fancy and very expensive bass can absolutely do the workhorse stuff, too (of course), but I'd feel insulted if you called it a workhorse.

 

[Nuisance]

I didn't vote, because I didn't find most of the items that make a bass a workhorse for me:

• Solid/reliable
• Can easily dial in most sounds I want/need
• Comfortable to play (feels like "home")
• Not too expensive (the bass ain't "working" if it's sitting in a case at home while you are playing at the local dive).

 

[Stewie]

Loyalty is important, and it should never steal your wife or the silverware.

 

[Drifter8230]

It smells/tastes good. Can be served with a wide variety of cuisine.