What would make a bass good? What would make a bass bad? I'm in need of a new bass and am wondering what to look out for, and what to avoid. Previously had a cheap PJ squier from one of those kits that came with an amp and everything.
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What makes a bass good?
- Thread starter zagreus
- Start date
First, you have to like the sound, since that is why you would be buying a bass in the first place. How are the fittings and electronics? Good, or meh? How comfortable for you is it ergonomically? You have to consider how it balances on a strap (neck dive) and/or on the lap, and also the reach to the first fret. How comfortable is the neck? The weight?
After all this, appearance comes into play. The wording on the headstock can influence the selection of basses you look at, but should not take precedence over the above when it comes to making a decision. All brands have their diamonds; all brands have their dogs.
After all this, appearance comes into play. The wording on the headstock can influence the selection of basses you look at, but should not take precedence over the above when it comes to making a decision. All brands have their diamonds; all brands have their dogs.
Gaolee
Official leathers tester and crash dummy
Play it. If you like how it feels and sounds, it is a good bass. If it confuses people, even better. And since this is TalkBass instead of PlayBass, the real answer is always one more. You always need one more.
Solid construction.
Is the neck joint tight? When I run my fingers up and down the neck, do sharp fret ends slice my fingers? Does the hardware appear to be carefully installed? When I sight down the neck, does it appear twisted or warped? Do the nut slots appear too shallow or too deep? All that good stuff.
What's great is that nowadays, you can get a solid bass at a bargain price. Today's sub-$300 offerings are worlds better than the beginner bass I started on back in 1994. And if you keep a lookout, you can find great deals on preowned or new-old-stock instrument. For example, last year I got a killer deal on a new-old-stock 2018 LTD D-5 that looks, feels, sounds, and plays far more plush than its price would indicate.
Is the neck joint tight? When I run my fingers up and down the neck, do sharp fret ends slice my fingers? Does the hardware appear to be carefully installed? When I sight down the neck, does it appear twisted or warped? Do the nut slots appear too shallow or too deep? All that good stuff.
What's great is that nowadays, you can get a solid bass at a bargain price. Today's sub-$300 offerings are worlds better than the beginner bass I started on back in 1994. And if you keep a lookout, you can find great deals on preowned or new-old-stock instrument. For example, last year I got a killer deal on a new-old-stock 2018 LTD D-5 that looks, feels, sounds, and plays far more plush than its price would indicate.
Look up low end lobsters @LowEndLobster bass reviews on you tube. He methodically goes through most of the important stuff and mostly does the same thing for each bass so you can see and hear differences.
Should help you figure out what you like and don’t like and what to watch out for.
Should help you figure out what you like and don’t like and what to watch out for.
An instrument that doesn’t get in your way of playing and enjoying it is a good instrument. That is different for every player.
About electronics, I see people buy guitars all the time and just replace the pickups immediately, and other electrical components, which leaves me confused, because if electronics is something that makes a bass good, why would some people go out and replace them right away? I appreciate your help so far.
The way I went about it was when I was ready for my next bass, I went on Sweetwater's website and browsed for basses in my price range that looked interesting. After I found a few I went on YouTube and watched reviews of those basses and that caused me loose interest in a couple, but some still seemed good. Then I went to the local music store to play the ones I was interested in to see which one I liked the best.
I still ended up buying from Sweetwater. I was able to try the bass I wanted in a different color in the store, but then ordered one that was the color I wanted from the website
I still ended up buying from Sweetwater. I was able to try the bass I wanted in a different color in the store, but then ordered one that was the color I wanted from the website
I'd agree with this, but I would flip the two considerations (sound versus feel). If a bass feels good under my fingers, I can usually find a way to get a sound I like or that works out of most amps. Plus, I'm always a bit startled listening to gig recordings when I hear how the tonal subtleties I work so hard to get all disappear once the whole band kicks in.
But if it doesn't feel good (after reasonable set up work), there's little that can be done.
So I'd go with feel first, and sound second.
The most important aspect is the feel of the neck in your fretting hand. If it's not comfortable to you nothing else matters because you won't play it if it doesn't feel great to you. Once you find that then everything else comes into play.
The two things I insist on are playability and sound. I have to have both or the bass is a no-go. I got spoiled back in 1966 when I bought a 1965 Jazz. Was a great sounding bass and with it's 60's slim C-shape neck with a 7.25" radius, it was the epitome of a "fast neck". In the early 70's I went on tour with a nightclub group. We played 5- nights a week, 50-weeks a year for 3-years. We typically played 2-week stands at each venue before driving to the next one. Really got used to that neck. After doing that for 3-years I still played weekend gigs with it. Then in 1976, all my touring gear was stolen, including my '65 Jazz Bass, my Standel piggy-back amp, 2 Shure mics (565SD and 585) and one Atlas mic stand. Had two of those and they left me one. I presume it was too heavy for too little value.
I was not able to find another Jazz with that same neck, albeit an all-maple neck instead of maple with rosewood fretboard, until 1985. The minute I played that bass it felt like home and I knew I had to buy it. It's actually a 1982 Jazz that was in mint condition and I've been playing it for 38-years now. The playability of it is just top-notch and super comfortable for me. You want to buy a bass that feels that good to you, whatever your preferences are.
The sound of my '82 Jazz is different than the sound of my 1965 Jazz. Similar, but different. My '82 has the 70's era pickup spacing of 4" center to center. That puts the bridge pickup almost 1/2" closer to the bridge and the result is a little brighter sound than my '65. Additionally, my '82 has far better sustain than my '65 ever did. I attribute that to the all maple neck. I hate to say it but I prefer the sound of my '82 over the sound I got out of my '65 Jazz. I'd still love to have my '65 Jazz back, but I'd probably still play my '82 most of the time. I really love the feel and sound of this bass.
I can't really say whether sound or playability is more important. It has to have both or it's a no-go for me.
You know my Grandson (I'm an old fart) got a Squier P/J kit for Christmas 2017. He lives in Australia and we spent Christmas with them that year. I had to show him a few things of course and I was surprised how comfortable that neck was for me. I usually don't like P-bass necks. They feel to clunky to me. They are wider and typically much thicker than the neck on my Jazz.
I took a look at it and it was still the almost 1¾" width at the nut, but the neck was slim. Front to back it was not a fat neck like most of the Precision Basses I've every tried out. So it appears to me that the thing that was stopping me from getting a P-bass all these years was the thickness of the neck not the width. It still wouldn't be my first choice, but a P-bass with that neck on it would be a fine addition to my small bass collection (my Jazz and my 5-string) and I'd certainly use it as needed for that P-bass sound.
The feel of the neck is paramount. I was recently bass hunting and tried a bunch of options. A Spector hung on the wall and I thought I'd try it because so many people love them here on TB. I held the neck with my fretting hand for no more than 5 seconds and I knew there is no sound it could make that would make me want to play it. "Settled" for an MTD.
The neck.
And tort.
A few personal insights-
You know your own musical tastes and favourite songs/bass tones that you aspire to having. Use that sound as a guide.
-there is a primal instinctual part of your brain that will flood you with feelings of “Oh darn, this bass feels and sounds RIGHT”.
To access it, you should try out as many different basses as you can; friends basses, store basses, anything you can get under your arm.
I’ve never regretted a bass i have chosen after playing and feeling strong “need it” feelings.
I have come close to selling/giving away a bass given to me as a gift, despite it being well regarded by everyone except myself.
-P bass/p bass copies are a great start, because
—if you ever move to a different bass you will appreciate how smooth life is with a pbass
-electronics, are they active or passive pickups? Are the pots and knobs well seated and turning freely?
-YOU, the player makes the bass sound good. If the paint/pickguard/neck/feel RESONATES with you, you’re going to want to play it more and improve your skills.
Vice versa, don’t get a bass because “it’s renowned” or because other people think it’s a doozy.
Learning to enjoy playing a bass that is uncomfortable or which sounds “meh” is a waste of your time and ability.
just my thoughts
the kit you want is the Silvertone pax, keep the LB-11 P bass and maybe keep the amp if you can use headphones with it. Samick makes the bass and it's a vintage Fender as far as you need, they're very consistent, for the last 30+yrs. find them used for $100 Silvertone bass LB-11 - Google Shopping
I fully agree. Last week I went to a shop with enough money to buy an original US Fender Bass. I tried one, I tried another one, but I ended up with a Mexican bass. Specs are overrated.
