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What now? Schaller Strap Lock install woes

Ugh.

I had the old type of Schaller straplock. But the one on the horn got worn down to the point where it could unclip itself (pic attached). So I tried to replace it with the new ones. The new ones have the screw and button as one piece. I noticed that the new screw is wider but since this one is one piece, I mis-compared and didn't realize it's also longer.

Problem is, my upper bout is pointy like this (pic attached). I was screwing it in and I heard a crack and found out the screw was about to come out the other side (on the left). It's just a crack in the finish so far but still. I took the screw back out. I don't want to eff it up more so...

Do I fill it with toothpicks and glue? Is that safe in this situation?

After I fill it, any ideas on what to do next? Some of my thoughts:

1. Use new old style Schallers. And wait for it to wear down again...

2. Use the new lock and move it 1/2"+ down the horn. Don't really want to leave a hole and possibly affect balance slightly.

3. Is there a way to install the screw pointing straight down? I can't see how to do this and get the button flush.

4. Ditch strap locks altogether. The angle of the bout and the angle I wear the bass make this a little risky.

5. Other brand of strap locks?

Dunno why Schaller insisted on making the screw bigger on these. The hex key thing is annoying as well. Like you can use the small handle and get no torque or you can use the big handle but it doesn't clear the neck each time around.

Are the old style supposed to wear down like that? It's been like 7 years but I thought these would be a "for life" type of deal. Anyways...

Thanks!

IMG_20210215_101634699.jpg IMG_20210215_103545057.jpg
 
It's likely splitting because you didn't drill the hole deeper for the new screw, so it's wedging the wood apart. If you wanted to keep the lock in that position, you could drill a proper pilot hole to the correct depth and try again.

If the split in the other side is visible, I would drop fill it with CA. It'll help the finish crack to disappear.

For what it's worth, when I put straps on pointy horns like that, I prefer to put them in from the back, since the horns are often thicker front to back than side to side.
 
For what it's worth, when I put straps on pointy horns like that, I prefer to put them in from the back, since the horns are often thicker front to back than side to side.

Ohh good point, I hadn't thought about that. Thanks! The edges are pretty rounded so it would still mean moving the strap button back about an inch from where it's been to get it on a flat footing. But if I decide to do that that's probably the way to do it.
 
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If you're trying to fill that hole to start over, I wouldn't worry about it too much. Use a sliver of wood that fits the hole as tightly as possible, then color the end and drop fill with CA to bring it even with the existing finish. And yes, you absolitely need a pilot hole when you start over. Size the drill bit to be slightly larger than the shank of the screw but smaller than the major diameter of the threads, and mark the depth of the screw on the bit so you get it right (and also to prevent you from going too deep and punching out the other side!)

I just looked it up, the correct pilot bit for that screw size is 7/64".
 
The only time you shouldn’t drill a pilot is if you’re framing a house.

Wood splits when a wedge is introduced, a screw acts as a wedge if forced into the wood.

Every time you put a screw into an instrument, a proper pilot is essential for a good result. Goggle up some articles to read on pilot holes in wood, fifteen minutes well spent.

Select the right bit for the screw diameter. Mark the depth you want with tape, measure twice. Be especially careful with the hardwoods that necks are made of. Go slow and thoughtfully.