I'm not clicking until at at least 8weeks after xmas.
I have enough problems.
Financial, chronological, emotional, you name it.
I have enough problems.
Financial, chronological, emotional, you name it.
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What's On Your Workbench?
- Thread starter HaMMerHeD
- Start date
I clicked, I'm okay. 
My problem is, I already have a nice enough top for my second build, I've already resawed it, drum sanded it flat. My third build is gonna be solid color, so no need for any sort of high end figured wood, I'll just use something plain and cheap. Did I mention cheap? So at my normal build pace, I'm good for at least another 4 years before I really need a top, and even at that I have another good enough flame maple top sitting over on the side (unless I decide to use it as a back on the second build) so that means I could possibly be good for at least 6 years. Plus, on top of all that, I really, REALLY want a crazy burl rather than flame or quilt. So yeah, I'm good. My problem is that stupid "Worldwide Burls" over on Instagram!
My problem is, I already have a nice enough top for my second build, I've already resawed it, drum sanded it flat. My third build is gonna be solid color, so no need for any sort of high end figured wood, I'll just use something plain and cheap. Did I mention cheap? So at my normal build pace, I'm good for at least another 4 years before I really need a top, and even at that I have another good enough flame maple top sitting over on the side (unless I decide to use it as a back on the second build) so that means I could possibly be good for at least 6 years. Plus, on top of all that, I really, REALLY want a crazy burl rather than flame or quilt. So yeah, I'm good. My problem is that stupid "Worldwide Burls" over on Instagram!
Mike is probably my favorite online wood vendor. You always get high quality stuff. His "defect" boards are often extremely cheap and he describes the defects well enough that you can decide if you want to work around them or not. This guitar's top was resawn from half of a bookmatched pair I bought from the "odds and ends" page on his website. I think it was like $25 or something.
So yeah, I got two of these for $25.
So yeah, I got two of these for $25.
Fine, I'll rummage through the discount bin. But that's it! And I'm just looking! I mean it!
Okay, but for your own good, DO NOT, I repeat, DO NOT visit Kimball Hardwoods!!!
Very much so, I find his wood is perfectly dry and stable. And he definitely knows how to run a kiln, I have bought stacks of wood from him and I have yet to find a board with bad internal stresses.
This is what’s on my work benches - 32” scale 4. Has a rocklite black binding. I much prefer wood bindings over plastic materials
Serious question. Can that fancy StewMac fretboard finishing oil be used as a guitar finish? Like, just use it for the whole dang thing?
Maybe, but it would be a long road. The Stew-Mac Fingerboard Oil is actually a similar product to Tru-Oil, except it's thinned down quite a bit. It's designed to quickly sink down into the pores, where it hardens and forms a barrier against moisture. Whatever is left on the surface dries slowly and wipes right off. Leaving no real coating on the surface. That's what it's supposed to do. And that's what we want on hard, dense wood fingerboards.
And that's what you'll get if you wipe it on, say, a flamed maple body. It'll seal up the pores, but the surface of the maple will be almost bare wood. It would easily get grubby and stained and worn. Unless you wiped it on real thick, let it dry on the surface, apply another coat, day after day. You eventually might get a thin surface finish about like you'd get with....two or three coats of Tru-Oil.
Questions about level of protection aside, I've put the stewmac oil on scraps of maple and a couple other lighter colored typical body and neck woods, just to see what it looked like. Not good. It almost wets out the wood a little too well. It ends up looking almost dirty or stained instead of nicely finished. Really not something I'd want on anything except dense dark woods that don't "need" a finish to look nice - like ebony, ziricote, rosewood, darker walnut, etc.
@Bruce Johnson Something about what you've just told us I don't understand. You apply the Stew-Mac oil to a fingerboard and it "hardens and forms a barrier against moisture", now you apply it to a maple body and it "would easily get grubby and stained and worn".
What causes the difference between the two results?
What causes the difference between the two results?
Compared to what some of you are doing and building..........I'm embarrased with what's on my work bench.
I bought a road worn Mike Dirnt swamp ash body from Stratosphere (4 lbs. 8 oz. body, should net an 8 lbs + something bass.). I'm going to try to make a bottom half pickguard out of cow hide. For a real deal "cow poke" P Bass.
Don't hold your breath but whenever I get this done, I'll post a complete job. (Not meant to be pretty and nice. Going for rugged and crude but very playable.)
I bought a road worn Mike Dirnt swamp ash body from Stratosphere (4 lbs. 8 oz. body, should net an 8 lbs + something bass.). I'm going to try to make a bottom half pickguard out of cow hide. For a real deal "cow poke" P Bass.
Don't hold your breath but whenever I get this done, I'll post a complete job. (Not meant to be pretty and nice. Going for rugged and crude but very playable.)
My best guess is that it is very thinned out/very low solids content. When applied to wood, most of the solids settle into the pores and open crevices in the grain. Very little solids are left on the higher spots. From the way it's described, it's not really meant to be a thick coating, like a poly. More just to seal the crevices so gunk and oils don't soak into the wood, making it easier to clean.
I don't know for sure, that's just my best guess, based on how I've heard it described.
