Gonna make a Michael Anthony bass with those peppers
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What's On Your Workbench?
- Thread starter HaMMerHeD
- Start date
I didn't know 3rd degree burn was a flavor.
I ate a habanero pepper once, just for the experience and so I could say I did it at least once. It was from someone's garden. They said it was a habanero, who knows. I was a dumb kid. It hurt. It didn't taste like anything. It just hurt.
I did it once, no reason to ever do it again. I definitely can't think of a reason to eat something hotter.
Most peppers do add different flavors to things. But I never eat them by themselves. If you put them on something, in something or with something then yeah, they can have a nice flavor.
I eat a lot of spicy food, but I'm not a fan of the Reaper, and the Ghost is just stupid. At some point they become less interesting and just stupid. There's a point where the heat/pain simply overrides any flavor they might have provided. At that point, I'm out.
Last year I grew jalapenos, habaneros and three other mild chilis. They all died in this stupid freeze/snow we had for the last two months.
I eat a lot of spicy food, but I'm not a fan of the Reaper, and the Ghost is just stupid. At some point they become less interesting and just stupid. There's a point where the heat/pain simply overrides any flavor they might have provided. At that point, I'm out.
Last year I grew jalapenos, habaneros and three other mild chilis. They all died in this stupid freeze/snow we had for the last two months.
I would call the weather people and complain. See if you can get like a rebate or something.
I named one of the plants Kenny, just so I can yell "You killed Kenny!" 
It's genetic, you get it from cousins.My cousin does this too. He mixes and matches different destructive peppers into sauces that could maim someone. I've been meaning to ask him, what the heck is wrong with you people?
Pepper tolerance is cumulative. The more you eat the higher you tolerance becomes. You want a little sting but never so you lose taste. The hotter peppers have a fruity flavor. I reduce the heat by stripping the hulls from the seed pod. I pickle them in vinegar (with garlic and anise) for months to kill the majority of the heat, leaving a nice relish for use in soups, stews, stir fry, beans etc. I dehydrate and grind some to have weapons grade on hand to adjust egos as needed.
Well, I currently just have makeshift workbenches, and this isn’t an instrument, but you are the most clever craftspeople I know. I had a glue up disaster last night.
I present to you, my disaster of a standing desk desktop:
Problem 1: a lack of glue. I’ve never done a large face glue up like this, and was surprised that my single bottle of Titebond 2 wasn’t enough. I had 2/3 of a Titebond 1 on hand so I made a mad dash for that and it still wasn’t enough for a thick coating, apparently.
Problem 2: a lack of clamps. Despite this being a good sheet of 3/4 Baltic ply, with minimal cupping evident in dry run, I was shocked in my race against the clock that I needed way more clamps than I had clean to get these trued up. I added some screws but didn’t drive them home because I was worthy would come through the top.
Result: I have a clear void in some edges.
HELP!
Is there a way to flood the gap for additional integrity? A way to aesthetically redeem this, or have I dropped $100 and a few hours down the drain? I’m looking forward to the gentle ridicule and bootleg engineering.
I present to you, my disaster of a standing desk desktop:
Problem 1: a lack of glue. I’ve never done a large face glue up like this, and was surprised that my single bottle of Titebond 2 wasn’t enough. I had 2/3 of a Titebond 1 on hand so I made a mad dash for that and it still wasn’t enough for a thick coating, apparently.
Problem 2: a lack of clamps. Despite this being a good sheet of 3/4 Baltic ply, with minimal cupping evident in dry run, I was shocked in my race against the clock that I needed way more clamps than I had clean to get these trued up. I added some screws but didn’t drive them home because I was worthy would come through the top.
Result: I have a clear void in some edges.
HELP!
Is there a way to flood the gap for additional integrity? A way to aesthetically redeem this, or have I dropped $100 and a few hours down the drain? I’m looking forward to the gentle ridicule and bootleg engineering.
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Do you need the edges to be tight or are you going to cover them? A bottle of titebond on that much surface area means those two pieces aren't coming apart even with a less than perfect clamp job.
This doesn't you help fix it, but those screws may have contributed to the problem.
When you use a screw whose thread is long enough to bridge the gap between the top and bottom piece of wood, you have to drill a larger diameter clearance hole in the top piece. If you don't, the threads engage both pieces of wood and don't apply any clamping load. Worse, if the two pieces have a gap between them when the screw is driven in, the screw will prevent the gap from closing despite any clamps you apply. That might well be what happened here.
But I agree with Jeff, you almost certainly don't have an integrity problem. Plywood is often finished with a strip of solid wood or veneer around the outside, which hides many sins.
I suspect just as you said this is primarily going to be an aesthetic issue. My hope was to have bare ply edges. I’m going to add an understated 1” radius to the corners, and then a 30° bevel to the bottom half and slight chamfer on the top edge.
With this gap I’m left with unsightly execution or I need to scrap my design details, if there is no fix.
Ugh, I have this bad feeling you’re right about the dang screws, Max. I was in panic mode, and even thou they looked to be 1.25” screws I was worried that if I drove them all the way they would countersink deeper and destroy the top.
If you have a router, you can use a T&G bit to route a channel around the center and then glue in a strip of something.
From the pictures you sent the gap at least looks reasonably even. If you filled the gap with some filler that color matched the plies of birch it might not be obvious once filled and sanded. Veneer is a relatively easy fix that would look intentional, if not exactly what you had in mind.
Keeping this route of fixes in mind, because I agree some subtle filling might not disrupt the plywood aesthetic, can people chime in with their best suggestions? What would be a good product to fill with?
I wish I had a very fine rabbit plane to run right at that midline all the way around to give a consistent groove to fill.
Rabbiting bit in the router and route that whole section out and glue in a decorative wood strip. Again, not the aesthetic you may have been going for but it could look good.
Not much today since I spent the evening shovelling again:
But I did get a few parts for the 10" driver + 1" tweeter combo amp I am designing:
That is a 500 W +/-65 V power supply and an ADAU1701 DSP board that will handle the crossover, limiter, HPF, bridging and box EQ duties. The amp boards will be the same IRS2092 based class D I used on my earlier 1000 W rack mount 3-way amp but will be limited by power supply output to 500 W RMS.
The entire amp will be about 21" wide x 14" high x 14" deep and should weight about 30 lbs. F3 is about 50 Hz and the system is never excursion limited at 500 W RMS above 42 Hz. Nominal output is nearly 120 dB from 50 Hz to 20 kHz. This should be a pretty epic little box!
But I did get a few parts for the 10" driver + 1" tweeter combo amp I am designing:
That is a 500 W +/-65 V power supply and an ADAU1701 DSP board that will handle the crossover, limiter, HPF, bridging and box EQ duties. The amp boards will be the same IRS2092 based class D I used on my earlier 1000 W rack mount 3-way amp but will be limited by power supply output to 500 W RMS.
The entire amp will be about 21" wide x 14" high x 14" deep and should weight about 30 lbs. F3 is about 50 Hz and the system is never excursion limited at 500 W RMS above 42 Hz. Nominal output is nearly 120 dB from 50 Hz to 20 kHz. This should be a pretty epic little box!
