What's REALLY the difference between all the different P-Bass models?

[basslicks]

My baby is a Fender American Elite P bass, which does have a number of differences from a standard P configuration.

The neck is C-D composite and it feels amazing.

It has a 21st fret (most regular Ps have 20) and the lowest and highest possible notes are both E (assuming E standard tuning). The symmetry pleases me, and I actually use that super high E in a few songs whereas before I would have to do a half-step bend, which kinda sucked.

It has a massive 18V preamp, and active 3-band EQ.

It has an active/passive switch, so even if I'm playing active and my batteries crap the bed I can always switch back to passive and stay in the groove (though this is a non-issue for me since I always play passive).

It has a 4th gen noiseless Jazz pickup, and a knob to blend between the traditional P and the J.

It has a truss rod adjustment wheel at the heel, which I find to be much better for adjusting.

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All of this being said, I don't even put batteries in it, the active/passive switch for me is just a glorified mute switch (since it mutes when switched to active and no batteries), I very rarely use the J pickup, so in my case it's really just a glorified standard P with a really nice neck and a bunch of things on it I don't really use. I still love it though.

 

[Kosmos]

I had one Professional P (2016) and a US Standard P (2013) and like both of them but just needed one so I sold the Standard P, but miss it so much that I sold the Professional and bought a Standard (2015) again.

I don´t know why I like the Standard P more than the Pro but its a perfect P for me. Neck and pickups is so good and the price is better. If I need one more I will buy the Standard, not the Pro.

I have also owned Ibanez Blazer and Greco P:s and the price around $500 is nice for them. I will never buy a 70th P (i own one for 10 years ago) for the same price as three US Standard P 2008-2016.

There is a lot of differences between this basses but I think the Standard P is so good a P can be without "extra all" like nitro, "original spec", custom shop spec...

 

[chris_b]

. . . . . . . . WHat exactly is better in terms of playability and sound? I don't mind paying more if i'm actually getting more.

I can tell you my Sadowsky Metro Jazz and Mike Lull PJ5 basses are worth every penny, but if you don't hear or appreciate the differences then the extra is money wasted.

I was playing for 40 years before I bought these basses, so my advice is to start with something like a US made Fender (the old Standards 2014-2016 are good) or, when they are available, one of the Sadowsky MetroExpress's and see where you go from there. I'd also improve my bang-for-buck by looking in the classifieds for a good used bass.

 

[SteveC]

My “P” is from the Classic Series by Roscoe. My other basses are Roscoe so I am biased, but I’ve tried other “P” basses - Fender included - and none of them felt right. I think most sound similar, but it’s the feel that’s the variable.

 

[FirewalZ]

I see the "P bass" as a design....and many builders can create an instrument from that design standard. I also think any instrument is the sum of its parts and build quality, so different components and build quality introduce variations...however subtle.