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Yes. The the ground wire. It runs to the bridge. Then, adds you to the loop when you touch the strings, and removes the interference that you're causing by making you and your bass flow with the same current (grounded)totally green and kind of winging my first pickup upgrade on my pbass.
curious....what's that wire on the left? a ground?
View attachment 4130985
View attachment 4130985
The plate under the pickup that you're removing has a dedicated ground running into the control cavity. The new pickup's plate appears to be grounded with the black pickup lead.
Clean & tin your iron tip. "Tinning is winning". A little dab of flux paste will let you work with already-soldered points (most solder has a flux core that burns off during initial soldering).gonna pause for a bit as the junky soldering iron given to me won't melt the solder
Installing a Pure Vintage 63 pickup that only has one black and one white wire. The pickup that came with the bass (MIJ Traditional 60's Midnight Precision Bass) has two black and one white wire. Curious about the difference between the two pickup designs.
yeah, that's what I was trying to get at, but way more accurate and clear...Many modern pickups use 3 wires instead of 2 - the 3rd wire is often used to ground the pole pieces, which helps with hum and buzz. Leo didn't see that as necessary, but folks back then didn't have quite the number of interference sources we have today. The amps also has a fair amount of buzz (which helped mask this issue), something that good rigs of today don't have.
Making the pole piece ground connection a 3rd wire (not connecting it to the black wire) allows you to reverse the polarity of the pickup (flipping the connections of the other 2 wires) and/or put pickups in series (where one pickup's coil is not connected directly to ground), and still have the pole pieces grounded.
yeah, that's what I was trying to get at, but way more accurate and clear...![]()
This. And clean your tip before you make a joint.I use a damp cellulose sponge and wipe the tip before every joint. I was taught this trick by an old-school radio station engineer.Clean & tin your iron tip. "Tinning is winning". A little dab of flux paste will let you work with already-soldered points (most solder has a flux core that burns off during initial soldering).
I'm a fan of copper scrubbing pads myselfThis. And clean your tip before you make a joint.I use a damp cellulose sponge and wipe the tip before every joint. I was taught this trick by an old-school radio station engineer.
It shouldn't take more than a second or two to melt solder. If you have the hold the iron on for a long time, you risk burning up your pots and other parts. I recommend at least a 35W iron.