I've been looking at some Dunlop Stainless Steel X-Heavy 115-55 gauge strings, and wasn't sure if they could handle standard tuning. What knowledge do you guys have when it comes to the heaviest strings for standard tuning?
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There are folks who use a .055 for a G and a .075 for a D. Some of them even use flatwounds, notoriously stiffer but also higher-tension in the strictest sense (lengthways pull), in those two gauges for those open notes, at standard bass long scale (34"). Such gauges are present in sets from Ernie Ball (called "Power Slinky") and other makers.I've been looking at some Dunlop Stainless Steel X-Heavy 115-55 gauge strings, and wasn't sure if they could handle standard tuning. What knowledge do you guys have when it comes to the heaviest strings for standard tuning?
Damn! Now THAT'S heavy!There are folks who use a .055 for a G and a .075 for a D. Some of them even use flatwounds, notoriously stiffer but also higher-tension in the strictest sense (lengthways pull), in those two gauges for those open notes, at standard bass long scale (34"). Such gauges are present in sets from Ernie Ball (called "Power Slinky") and other makers.
For reasons outlined here, I'd encourage you to consider .055 for the G and .075 for the D as a hard limit. As for the rest of the set, gauges found in those commercially available super heavy sets are .09 or .095 A and .11 E; if the neck and truss rod can take it, you could in theory go heavier than that, namely up to .1 for the A and .135 for the E (buying single strings of course): the tension for the latter two strings would be in the same ballpark as those of the D and G.
My personal advice for anyone feeling like attempting the experiment, however, is to come down a .005" notch for each gauge, and build a custom set made as follows: .05 G, .07 D, .095 A and .13 E. As the last post in the thread I linked to demonstrates, total tension wouldn't exceed that of the heaviest pre-packaged sets out there, but it would be more evenly distributed (less at the D and G, more at the bass side).
I know DR has a set that is 125-65. That could work for standard tuning? I'd be drop tuning too but I just want some freedom to drop tune if needs be, as well as playing in standard.You seem to be more awed at the prospect of using a .135 as an E than a .065 as a G. Read the post I linked to above:Damn! Now THAT'S heavy!I know DR has a set that is 125-65. That could work for standard tuning? I'd be drop tuning too but I just want some freedom to drop tune if needs be, as well as playing in standard.
Good advice, calculate the total tension of the heaviest commercial set intended for EADG (many sets are for dropped tuning so be careful) and create an equal-tensions set with no more tension than that, the balanced tension will be kinder to your instrument..05 G, .07 D, .095 A and .13 E. As the last post in the thread I linked to demonstrates, total tension wouldn't exceed that of the heaviest pre-packaged sets out there, but it would be more evenly distributed (less at the D and G, more at the bass side).
You seem to be more awed at the prospect of using a .135 as an E than a .065 as a G. Read the post I linked to above:
Heavy Gauge Strings and what is too heavy for standard?
A .135 may be unconfortable to some regardless of tuning, and there's even the chance that, if tuned to E, it could break from having a thinner core-to-wrap ratio than a common-gauge, overall thinner E (it would depend on the construction of that specific make and model I guess). However, in case it did not break after all, its tension would be nothing out of the ordinary: it would simply be what you get when using a .055 G or a .075 D, as mentioned. On the other hand, forget bringing a .065 up to G: it will definitely break well before reaching the target pitch.
Good advice, calculate the total tension of the heaviest commercial set intended for EADG (many sets are for dropped tuning so be careful) and create an equal-tensions set with no more tension than that, the balanced tension will be kinder to your instrument.
I'm repeating myself Heavy Gauge Strings and what is too heavy for standard?
An Epiphone Thunderbird Classic IV Pro? Thin neck?Your neck is the biggest determining factor to how thick of a diameter of strings you can put on it for standard tuning.
I've been looking at some Dunlop Stainless Steel X-Heavy 115-55 gauge strings, and wasn't sure if they could handle standard tuning. What knowledge do you guys have when it comes to the heaviest strings for standard tuning?

A serious problem with this is finding a universal setup. To deal with the occasional lowest string drop, or to habitually move back and forth between two standard (all-fourths) tunings a whole step apart, is one thing: you'd only need to choose gauges and set up the neck, bridge and nut for the average tuning (e.g. Eb... etc. if you oscillated between E standard and D standard).I'm love heavy gauge strings, and the main reason I want the heaviest possible is because I play for fun at home, and I play a variety of songs in different turnings, from Muse in standard, to RATM in Drop D, to Queens of the Stone Age in C F A# D# to Mudvayne in B F# B E and I kinda want that freedom to tune to anyone of those tunings and not face large issues in stability and tuning. I'd love a five string bass but it'll be a while yet.
My current strings are 50-105 Elixirs, which are great, but not for lower timings, unless I raise my action a lot. I enjoy action like John Entwistle said: "I like my strings on the other side of the fretboard"![]()
In this case an equal-tensions set is optimum for you as it will help to avoid overly-tight or overly-loose strings in certain tunings.I want the heaviest possible is because I play for fun at home, and I play a variety of songs in different turnings