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Worst case scenario:
You go through the time and effort to not only install a new bridge and re-string the instrument, but to set the intonation and action optimum, just to realize the damn thing plays and sounds just the same as it did before.
Before you start, lay the new bridge side by side with the current one and line up the screw holes, then adjust the intonation to match.
It won't be dead on and you will still need to adjust after installing, but it will be in the ballpark.
Before you start, lay the new bridge side by side with the current one and line up the screw holes, then adjust the intonation to match.
It won't be dead on and you will still need to adjust after installing, but it will be in the ballpark.
The worst? You use a worn screwdriver bit and strip a screw head. Your diesel mechanic buddy lends you some kind of strange easy-out thing, but you slip when using a hand drill and suddenly have an extra hole. In frustration, you start prying the bridge off with a chisel and screwdriver. It doesn't work so you get another bright idea of using a propane torch to remove the screws. After you set the bass on fire, the fire department is slow to respond because they're having an in-house chili cookoff. Your home is reduced to ashes. Without your home providing balance against all the basements around the world filled with old National Geographic magazines, the planet changes it's axis tilt. This upsets the solar orbital equilibrium. Mercury is the first to be sucked in to the sun. The resulting explosion produces a fireball that consumes Venus and our home. Not to mention the effect on the galaxy and local group.
Don't screw up!
That could be good in the case of a straight replacement.
my scenario
???
I just replied that (if the tone, adjustability, fit, etc was good), a straight replacement (same results [minus the opened slots]) would be considered good.
Has anyone delved into the whole "waste-of-money-trying-to-improve-your-sound" pitfall yet?
worst scenario? You install the bridge and realize you cant set your action low as before, and your bass is a neck-through or set neck...
You guys sure aren't helping this noob much! Hey, the BEST kind of operation is just what he is asking about. Replacing a damaged (bent) bridge with a new one of exactly the same kind. It's hard for this to go wrong. You just take off the strings, unscrew the defective bridge and screw the new one down. If there is trouble it will be along the lines of a couple of the screw holes strip out and the screws won't tighten. In that case you put a couple toothpics in the hole with some moo glue and tighten it all up. You probably won't even have to touch intonation, though I'd do a complete setup just for drill.
So how do things do wrong? Well the first one is that the mounting holes in the replacement bridge don't match the holes in the old bridge or the bass !!!. Yeah, stuff happens. This tends to happen a lot if you try to replace the old bridge with a "better" bridge. And that gets even worse because you may find that most holes don't match (which is good you just drill new pilot holes for the screws) or worse "almost" match which means you must drill out that hole, glue a dowel into it, and then trim it flat with bass surface. Worst of all worlds is when one or more old screw holes isn't covered by area of new bridge. And last kick in the teeth is that you find after spending a fortune on a new bridge, filling screw holes, aligning the bridge position so strings are spaced right on neck and intonation adjustment has enough range, you discover the tone isn't any better than it was before! This is why when I install a new bridge it is for FEATURES like top-loading rather than pushing strings through holes. And as noted above, a different bridge my not go low enough for your bass and if its through-body you can't shim the neck back into OK. Another important thing to watch is to be sure the line of saddles is adjusted close to maximum distance and then mount bridge so saddles are in a line right were the old intonation line was. If you aren't careful with this you find that the B string won't have enough distance to pull it into intonation and it's worse because it's fat and doesn't bend easily.
But as I said. easiest fix is just to replace the bad bridge with a new one just like it and be on your way.
Oh wait! I see you already did it just like I said and are on your way! Nice job! And Oh, by the way, I forgot to mention, trying to replace a bridge that is recessed into the body like yours with something other than an exact replacement is probably the BIGGEST of all bridge replacement nightmares! You did good!
Will new strings always need a truss rod adjustment?Yep, you just have to reset the action and intonation if you use the same set of strings, you shouldn't have to touch the truss rod.
Sometimes, it depends on how picky you are with your setupWill new strings always need a truss rod adjustment?