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What's wrong with my Schroeder cab ?
- Thread starter banditcosmo
- Start date
hah.....I thought I had blown my 10" speaker in my 1210R this weekend. I was so bummed. Then I got home and realized that the screws on the back panel had vibrated loose and was allowing the back plate to create a buzzing sound that was eerily similar to a blown speaker. Took the drill to the screws and now everything is great again....
I have opened two schroeders. In one I found wood chips/particles of the MDF and a spare grommet like the ones used theder the screws that hold the grilles in.
In the other I found an extra piece of rubber stopped (used as a standoff for the grilles) that was wedged under the grille as well as quite a lot of dust/small wood chips inside.
check for stuff inside rattling around.
In the other I found an extra piece of rubber stopped (used as a standoff for the grilles) that was wedged under the grille as well as quite a lot of dust/small wood chips inside.
check for stuff inside rattling around.
Hi Guys,
I just got my (used) 1212L yesterday, gave it a test run today, and got this as my result:
Link Removed
The front 12 seems to be fine--the noise sounds like its coming from the baffled driver area. I think that it's just a matter of re-gluing the angled baffle back down. I sent an e-mail to Jorg earlier today before I figured out the issue. Is this something I should do with Gorilla (or ???? glue) as previously suggested, or should I wait to hear back from Jorg Schroeder? If I glue it, won't this be a recurring issue? Is there a more permanent solution?
I just got my (used) 1212L yesterday, gave it a test run today, and got this as my result:
Link Removed
The front 12 seems to be fine--the noise sounds like its coming from the baffled driver area. I think that it's just a matter of re-gluing the angled baffle back down. I sent an e-mail to Jorg earlier today before I figured out the issue. Is this something I should do with Gorilla (or ???? glue) as previously suggested, or should I wait to hear back from Jorg Schroeder? If I glue it, won't this be a recurring issue? Is there a more permanent solution?
I have 2 of the21012 L cabs.Both cabs rattle,I think they are so light weight that there is no permanent way to stop this.I have tightened every screw,even reinforced the grill with more rubber bumpers and screws,the ratteling disappears for a while but always seems to come back. when playing with band its not noticable but playing solo,get used to it.
DISCLAIMER: As far as I know, this fix applies only to the round, titanium "bullet" tweeters. If you do this, I'm not responsible for any damage caused to your cab or voiding of your warranty. This is a do-at-your-own-risk fix.
****************************
I figured out what was wrong with my cab, and it was an easy fix.
To determine if this is your problem:
Pick up the handle on the side of the cab with the baffle and "wiggle" the cab up & down. If you get a rattling sound coming from the side of the cab with the baffle, this may be your issue.
On my cab, all the screws holding the tweeter to the cab were tight as was the ring around the tweeter (two previously mentioned issues). It turned out that the magnet/coil portion of the bullet tweeter had come loose from the "horn" part of the tweeter.
To fix your "loose" tweeter:
1. Remove the grille from the front of the cab, careful to not strip the (very long) screws holding the grille onto the cab. Set aside the grille & mounts.
2. To verify that you have a "loose tweeter"--with the cab lying on its back (tweeter facing up) carefully reach your hand behind the tweeter. Flatten your hand and gently push up on the tweeter's magnet. Be gentle--you don't want to damage anything here. If the tweeter moves--even a little--then, you have found your problem. Here's a video of when I found the issue: http://s827.photobucket.com/albums/...erFix/?action=view¤t=SchroederTweet.flv It's a little hard to see because of the lousy camera on my phone, but the bullet actually was moving up & down with the associated noise you'll hear on the video.
3. Before unplugging the wires, take note of which wire attaches to which portion of the tweeter. Next, (before unscrewing the tweeter from the cab) carefully unplug the wires from the connectors on the back of the tweeter. You may want to use a mirror and a flashlight to confirm how these are attached, but mine pulled straight off the back. SECURE THE WIRES TO THE CAB so they don't hit your angled driver. I just taped mine to the inside/top of the cab with some gaff tape.
4. Unscrew the tweeter from the cab (4 screws). Set screws aside.
5. Rotate the tweeter and remove. Mine was in a circular cut out with 2 "wings" cut for the tweeter's connector tabs. Make sure you don't force it out. Using a mirror will make this a lot easier.
6. Once out, there should be 4 screws holding the "horn" onto the tweeter assembly. Mine were black allen screws and all 4 were very loose. The only thing holding the screws on was the magnet on the tweeter itself. You can see how the screws hold the horn/magnet assembly together in the 2nd part of the video from step 2 above.
7. Do this next process one screw at a time, alternating sides (ie: do bottom left, then upper right, then bottom right, then upper left). Do not remove all screws at once. One screw at a time, remove with an allen wrench, carefully put a drop of lock-tite on the last 1/2 cm of the screw. Wait for the lock tite to permeate the threads on the screw, then reinsert that screw and tighten with the hex wrench.
You do not need to force this. You risk breaking the screws, the horn housing or damaging the tweeter.
8. Repeat the process for the other 3 screws, going in the order noted above. I marked each completed screw with a piece of white tape so I didn't accidentally do any of them twice.
9. Once you have finished applying lock-tite and reinserting all screws, tighten all screws. Still, don't force the screws. Once tightened, I let mine sit for a while so the lock tite could take hold. Remove any tape or markings you put on the tweeter.
10. Carefully reinsert the tweeter. I reconnected the wires at this point, because I could turn the tweeter and get to both wire terminals easily. If you feel you need to exert more force to get your wire to connect to the terminal, you may want to screw the tweeter back into the cab first.
11. Screw the tweeter back to the cab.
12. Put the grille back on the cab.
That's it. You should be ready to rock. I waited for about 12 hours before testing mine, just to make sure I didn't loosen the screws up again.
I hope this helps someone!
****************************
I figured out what was wrong with my cab, and it was an easy fix.
To determine if this is your problem:
Pick up the handle on the side of the cab with the baffle and "wiggle" the cab up & down. If you get a rattling sound coming from the side of the cab with the baffle, this may be your issue.
On my cab, all the screws holding the tweeter to the cab were tight as was the ring around the tweeter (two previously mentioned issues). It turned out that the magnet/coil portion of the bullet tweeter had come loose from the "horn" part of the tweeter.
To fix your "loose" tweeter:
1. Remove the grille from the front of the cab, careful to not strip the (very long) screws holding the grille onto the cab. Set aside the grille & mounts.
2. To verify that you have a "loose tweeter"--with the cab lying on its back (tweeter facing up) carefully reach your hand behind the tweeter. Flatten your hand and gently push up on the tweeter's magnet. Be gentle--you don't want to damage anything here. If the tweeter moves--even a little--then, you have found your problem. Here's a video of when I found the issue: http://s827.photobucket.com/albums/...erFix/?action=view¤t=SchroederTweet.flv It's a little hard to see because of the lousy camera on my phone, but the bullet actually was moving up & down with the associated noise you'll hear on the video.
3. Before unplugging the wires, take note of which wire attaches to which portion of the tweeter. Next, (before unscrewing the tweeter from the cab) carefully unplug the wires from the connectors on the back of the tweeter. You may want to use a mirror and a flashlight to confirm how these are attached, but mine pulled straight off the back. SECURE THE WIRES TO THE CAB so they don't hit your angled driver. I just taped mine to the inside/top of the cab with some gaff tape.
4. Unscrew the tweeter from the cab (4 screws). Set screws aside.
5. Rotate the tweeter and remove. Mine was in a circular cut out with 2 "wings" cut for the tweeter's connector tabs. Make sure you don't force it out. Using a mirror will make this a lot easier.
6. Once out, there should be 4 screws holding the "horn" onto the tweeter assembly. Mine were black allen screws and all 4 were very loose. The only thing holding the screws on was the magnet on the tweeter itself. You can see how the screws hold the horn/magnet assembly together in the 2nd part of the video from step 2 above.
7. Do this next process one screw at a time, alternating sides (ie: do bottom left, then upper right, then bottom right, then upper left). Do not remove all screws at once. One screw at a time, remove with an allen wrench, carefully put a drop of lock-tite on the last 1/2 cm of the screw. Wait for the lock tite to permeate the threads on the screw, then reinsert that screw and tighten with the hex wrench.
You do not need to force this. You risk breaking the screws, the horn housing or damaging the tweeter.
8. Repeat the process for the other 3 screws, going in the order noted above. I marked each completed screw with a piece of white tape so I didn't accidentally do any of them twice.
9. Once you have finished applying lock-tite and reinserting all screws, tighten all screws. Still, don't force the screws. Once tightened, I let mine sit for a while so the lock tite could take hold. Remove any tape or markings you put on the tweeter.
10. Carefully reinsert the tweeter. I reconnected the wires at this point, because I could turn the tweeter and get to both wire terminals easily. If you feel you need to exert more force to get your wire to connect to the terminal, you may want to screw the tweeter back into the cab first.
11. Screw the tweeter back to the cab.
12. Put the grille back on the cab.
That's it. You should be ready to rock. I waited for about 12 hours before testing mine, just to make sure I didn't loosen the screws up again.
I hope this helps someone!
I ran into this yesterday. Everything else was tight as a drum and I thought my speaker was blown. Turns out one of these rubber stoppers had been floating around in there for a long time and had recently managed to wedge itself between the speaker frame and the cone. It didn't have a scratch on it/had never been used so it must have been left inside at the factory. Pretty relieved to find out I didn't have a more serious issue.
I know this thread is old, but I'd like to chime in for a second since I had the same problem some days ago with my newly acquired 1212R (second hand). In my case, it turned out to be what pablomigraine describes on the first page: the baffle joint on the rear right of the cabinet. A quick way to find out if this is might be the problem (on an angled baffle design) is to set the cab with the angled speaker firing down (horn/tweeter close to the floor). The weight of the speaker on the joint should minimize or make the rattle stop altogether. Before doing this I had done a pretty thourough inspection and my ears where telling me the problem came from that same area. Using my hands to put pressure on the joint pretty much told me what was going on, but putting the cab on it's side totally confirmed it.
i have the same issue with my 1212L, the vibration sounds like a blown speaker so i placed wood wedges on the angle baffle, i did not glue it yet I'm waiting to talk toe jorg...im wondering if this will help? by just hand strength pushing the wedges in the sound was minimized but not gone!.......
Have you checked the tweeter? Mine also sounded like it had a blown speaker, but it turned out that the tweeter was just loose. I haven't had this cab for a while, but IIRC, the horn and driver simply weren't attached together very well. Fixing this required pulling the entire tweeter assembly out and securing the driver to the horn, which really wasn't as hard as I made it seem up above.
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