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when will fender finally sell us?

True that, could not agree more. But if the A slot of the nut is cut wrong at the factory as mine was, your choices are to replace it or string BEAD, I think.

Aha, never thought of it but maybe the previous owner of my MIM neck had the nut cut for BEAD tuning. That's why I had to replace it for regular tuning.

Thanks for the light bulb moment ShowLow!

Holy crap on a cracker, I did learn something today :D
 
I don't even have a string retainer on My Fendre and it don't do the buzz.

fendre.jpg
 
I like that fender has finally made a fix for A string buzzing by making a stealth retainer. Now if they would just sell them to the rest of us who dont want to do major alterations to there bass to fix this long time problem. Even if u wind your string three times chances are at some point you will get some buzz from your A string. Just not enough downward pull. I really hope hipshot or someone starts making and selling these.

That's a solution for an easy to avoid issue, seriously. Just wind enough turns to get the string coming out low. No buzz unless your nut is not cut properly... Which again has an easy solution.

Not saying that the retainer is a bad idea... Just that there is no need to suffer that buzz unless you really want to.
 
True that, could not agree more. But if the A slot of the nut is cut wrong at the factory as mine was, your choices are to replace it or string BEAD, I think.

:cool:
I have a friend who is a world-class repair man.
He says the number one problem he see's is a nut that is cut wrong from the factory.
This is not just Fender, It is most major name company's.
 
A low nut slot can sometimes be "compensated" for by downward pressure or restraint
behind the nut. The steeper break angle causes the string to "launch" out of the slot at
a higher angle, and can eliminate buzzing on the open string.
I'm not suggesting this as a fix; the problem in this case is that the nut slot is too low.

It's just something to check before adding something like the strongarm. If the slot was too low, the string will begin buzzing again if and when the string re-acquires it's proper set coming off of the nut, for example if you reset the witness point.
Think carefully about this "fix."

All you are doing is swapping one nut problem for an even worse one -- one which these silly doodads will usually create on the E or B of a normal bass, BTW.

Tune your open E with a chromatic tuner. Then play the fretted F, F# and G. Are they also in tune? If you've moved the witness point back to the head side of the slot, they will not be and can't be.

Think about it. You've permanently screwed up the intonation.

I see this problem on new instruments all the time, particularly on acoustic guitars, right out of the box. The E string can't accommodate the break angle on the precut nut and tips back.
 
:cool:
I have a friend who is a world-class repair man.
He says the number one problem he see's is a nut that is cut wrong from the factory.

I'm not sure if it's even possible to overstate this problem.

Also add this to strings that don't fit.

I don't know why the collective TalkBass Bubba Mind has decided that the subjects of nuts and stringing are never to be seriously considered when so much time is wasted on total nonsense.

Just not sexy, I guess. :rollno:
 
The problem with the tuners on Squiers, Am Specials, MIMs, isn't that they're "tapered". Its that they're concave. The Hipshot HB7, which directly replaces these tuners, is tapered down to the headstock, which encourages a downward wind.

Concave - bad
Tapered - good

But yeah, a correctly cut nut and properly wound strings will eliminate the notorious A string buzz.
 

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